CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

'74 K5 build: Smurf

So Sir-Mix-Alot was talking about tankie in that song.:rolleyes:

I think they have meetings for your lighting illness. I think its called watt stopers or some such.:whistle:Well i guess you can't say you didn't SEE that coming. Hee hee heee.:haha:
 
Nice work Aaron...

A cheap, low-tech alternative to thread chasers or taps is......... Tin foil.

Seriously. Just ball up a small amount inside and around the threaded areas you want to protect from weld spatter. Works great for heim threads too.

One thing you'll notice is that pouring a ton of heat into a captive nut will cause it to cool "undersized" so you may end up recutting the threads anyway to get the bolt to fit again.



-G
 
Nice work Aaron...

A cheap, low-tech alternative to thread chasers or taps is......... Tin foil.

Seriously. Just ball up a small amount inside and around the threaded areas you want to protect from weld spatter. Works great for heim threads too.

One thing you'll notice is that pouring a ton of heat into a captive nut will cause it to cool "undersized" so you may end up recutting the threads anyway to get the bolt to fit again.

Ahhh ... I dig the tinfoil! I have some copper sheet scrap I use as backing for filling holes and such, but for blind holes, that's a neat trick.

And yeah, given the color change I suspected the nuts were changing size. At the least I wait for them to cool before re-cutting them.

-- A
 
Omfg, tinfoil! that's genius!!! :D

You can also use old license plates as weld backers, if you don't need a super-flat surface. I don't know that they're entirely aluminum, but they're reasonably non-ferrous and dissimilar enough that they work if you don't have a chunk of copper sheet your dad gave you when he fell off the ladder and bent his copper gutters all to hell :haha:

We're sneaky here on CK5: for me, it's run-on sentences, and for Greg, it's sage welding advice.

-- A
 
I found that my efforts to "fix" my truck, CK5-style, were making her increasingly unattractive to actually drive. Great to look at, pain to store (no top), no fun to drive (windburn, noise, etc.) Did I mention my fusebox was starting to corrode, so I've had to pull out fuses and go in there with emery paper? SUCKS. ASS.

Thus the top, the seats, and today, door jamb switches. Yes, the dome and under-dash lights actually come on when the doors open. Next you know I'll be putting carpet in! (NB: I am actually contemplating this.)

Oh, and as I've previously hinted, the dash got totally redone. As I said, the gauges were barely visible in the best of light; when the lights did choose to work at night the plastic was so nasty, all I could tell was, yeah, there's something orange under there. :doah:

After the usual mail-order comedy of errors, this is the end result:

PB210008.JPG


PB2400071.JPG
 
Last edited:
First the old cluster came out, so very thankful the cage has the removable section for this very purpose.

PB1400041.JPG


The old factory cluster plug was chopped off and replaced with a nice modern Molex:

PB2100041.JPG


All fifteen pins were eventually filled in, crimped and soldered, because I fundamentally distrust crimp connections.

After Martin's snide-yet-helpful :D observation on Zeppelin (or in my case, Euro power metal, but I digress), I decided to keep the radio area empty for now as I might just put a (gasp!) radio in. The various auxiliary controls (lights, winch, OBA) were then moved elsewhere, with some scrap ABS plastic panels and prodigious use of the Dremel.

PB1600151.JPG


The winch controls took the place of the lower left vent, and the OBA and light switches replaced the factory climate control, err, controls.

PB2000021.JPG
 
Last edited:
But wait, I can hear y'all saying, you are adding creature comforts but removing the climate control? In short, yeah. If I decide down the line that I need heat, I'll go with one of those Flexalite Mojave things. The vent windows are called "vent" for a reason ... and AC, eh, just isn't in the cards.

At this point the AC is mostly gone (never really worked, and the York sits where the compressor was), the heater did generate heat, but the vents were all bunged up and the fan speed control was borked. I couldn't justify the amount of work to repair it all, so out it all came. This also frees up a bunch of room for other stuff, like an underhood air tank. We'll see if I regret this down the line, but as I said, worst case I can do a floor heater. Without carpet, enough heat comes up through the floorboards that MORE of it is the least of my problems :D

Back to the gauges...

As mentioned, the transmission gear indicator is part of the original cluster, so I went with one of the Dakota Digital solutions. They only come in brushed or shiny, no black, so I had to take it apart to paint the trim ring so it more-or-less matches. Nothing like voiding the warranty before you've even used a thing :haha:

PB2400061.JPG


And jeebus, there's a lot of wires back there. Everything's electric and each gauge has its own backlight ... so many wires :eek1:

PB150008.JPG


But with the wielding of the diags (here in CA wielding "dykes" is something entirely other!) and the wiretires, eventually sanity reigns:

PB2100101.JPG


The black box in this pic's upper right, with the green terminal strip, is the interface box from the transmission position sensor to the prundle display.

My girlfriend didn't know what a prundle was. You know, "PRNDL" ?

And yes, that's a wire nut, worse than a crimp connection, I know, I know. It's a temporary thing until I decide whether to keep the dim circuit for the display, and then it'll either get soldered and heat-shrinked, or just heat-shrinked off.

EDIT Sep 2013: I gather from JJ that current revisions of the dash offer the ability to reuse the factory transmission P-R-N-D-L indicator, so that's simpler yet.

-- A
 
Last edited:
I haven't tidied up under the column yet, still have a coupla bugaboos to chase down in the turn signals (but nothing to do with the cluster... think my blinkers don't like the low-current of my all-LED arrangement.)

All new gauges, in the light:

PB2400091.JPG


In the dark, with the flash:

PB240027.JPG


And without flash, with the backlight. In the dark the Phantoms switch to white-on-black:

PB240029.JPG


Note you can see the turn signal indicators from the Dakota Dig display. There's also a round blue LED for the high-beams and a round red one which I used for the brake warning light.
 
You can also use old license plates as weld backers, if you don't need a super-flat surface. I don't know that they're entirely aluminum, but they're reasonably non-ferrous and dissimilar enough that they work

Really? One of my first welding practice attempts was fixing my license plate that was folded in half a few times and broke. I used flux core steel wire on it and it came out reasonably well, now I'm not so sure...
 
Now, some observations on the project. For newer trucks, this would likely go quicker and be more of a bolt-up. This truck was old enough that it still had the mechanical oil gauge, for instance. I had to re-plumb under the dizzy to mount the new sender, plus replace the water and tranny temp senders, and of course install and wire the electric speedo sender (never mind the transmission position gizmo.)

Also, it took a ton of custom wiring in the dash which is incredibly time consuming. Some of that is my desire to solder and heatshrink everything, and some is the fact that I have more gauges than stock.

Classic Dash (i.e. "Ion" here on CK5) supplies a number of wiring harnesses, which I'm thinking mostly apply to y'all with newfangled modern trucks. You could presumably plug right into the VSS for the DRAC-equipped trucks, and get the tach signal from the ECU, you could reuse the factory oil pressure sender wiring, etc. He also supplies a harness for each gauge, and a ton of extra connectors and wire bits and I don't know what all, so I certainly had more than enough stuff to do what I wanted to do. Even on the newer trucks, though, I would not expect that you could just attach harness A to harness B and drop it in, the way you do with a stereo. There's just to many variations of plugs on each end for it to be that simple.

And since my truck is so old, I had to run wires for all of it by hand. I had about half the wires already through the firewall since I'd added a tach and tranny temp gauge, but I still had to run a bunch of new ones, remove the mechanical speedo cable, etc, etc, etc. It's the little stuff that adds up the time.

Also, the dash panel fits a bit funny. A couple of the top mounting points actually go to the cluster, so I suppose I could have gutted it and kept it in there for those upper screws; as it was I just left them off. My truck is not entirely perfect :surepal: so the fitment, as it were, fits right in. Tankie's also of the era with the wiper controls on the dash, versus the newer column-mounted ones which would make the dash cleaner and fit tighter. If you were doing a show-quality truck, you might want to go the route others have taken and mount aftermarket gauges into the factory dash. You'd be in for a ton of work, but you'd have more control over fitment.

I don't mean this as a judgment on the product; I couldn't point at anything and say "Here's where you could improve it." The factory dash is just crappily designed and a miserable pain to work on, as we all know. JJ "Ion" was also very helpful, worked with me through the process and customization, and took care of me right away when Autometer missed some bits in the gauge they drop-shipped me. Nice guy, very quick to respond, definite CK5 good-guy vendor.

Overall I'm pleased and it's, duh, infinitely better than before. Yes, I *could* have taken the factory cluster apart and silver-painted it and cleaned all the corroded connections, but the gauges would still be four decades old and it would still be finicky. This is a bit more work (and of course $$), prolly about the same amount of time, and the net result is gauges that are VISIBLE in any conditions and won't blink going over bumps :deal:

-- A
 
Last edited:
Really? One of my first welding practice attempts was fixing my license plate that was folded in half a few times and broke. I used flux core steel wire on it and it came out reasonably well, now I'm not so sure...

Yeeeeah now that you say that, I wonder if the newer ones (like, I donno, within the last coupla decades) are some kind of pot metal as I vaguely recall a magnet sticking to them. Maybe it's the ooooold ones that have the higher Al content?

Also, IIRC, fluxcore is more forgiving about welding dissimilar metals, turns into more of a brazing or soldering with the flux. :dunno:

-- A
 
Last edited:
After Martin's snide-yet-helpful :D observation on Zeppelin (or in my case, Euro power metal, but I digress), I decided to keep the radio area empty for now as I might just put a (gasp!) radio in.

haha

Do it, you'll love it. Throw some carpet in there while you're at it!

Martin
 
I really like what you did to the gauges. Do you plan on adding some aluminum trim?
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom