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'74 K5 build: Smurf

The "before" tranny pan again for reference

IMG_2973.JPG


And the final result for comparison

IMG_2978.JPG

and then from the side

IMG_2979.JPG


I'm half tempted to reinforce the sides of the skid with some angle or something, but really, by the time the 1/4" plate is bending hard enough to impact the tranny, I suspect I have larger issues.

-- A
 
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I enjoy reading your posts.

Martin

Thanks. Hopefully it's a mix of my stellar photography and dry wit. (It sure ain't my stellar welding skills.)

Found one more pic of the tranny skid plate crossmember in its early stages

IMG_2945.JPG


with the latest addition to the welding table, namely front outlets. Somebody here (skunked maybe?) had a bit in their build thread about it, and Oh My God it's handy. Donno how I lived without it. Long extension cord goes to the wall outlet in the back, but having all those outlets up front just makes it go soo much quicker. And the grinder cords don't get tangled, and there's still extra outlets for e.g. the die grinder or the sawzall.

And all it took is a coupla outlet boxes and a piece of conduit ... stupid simple, yet I never thought of it.

-- A
 
The bits and pieces for the wheel covers came in. They're not quite full-on hubcaps, but maybe I can be an honorary member of the Hubcap Club anyway?

The first thing you need is the conversion lug nuts. Dorman sells them as #611-161, "retrofit" nuts. http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-24386-611-161.aspx They're 9/16-18 inside, and 27-2.0 outside. Martin has the cheap hookup, there's a guy on Ebay that sells em:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/32-LUG-NUTS...-8-LUG-NUTS-CHEVY-GMC-1971-1988-/252377035473

IMG_2998.JPG


Then you need the wheel covers themselves. Searching on CK5 says you want them from '88-98, the GMT400 IFS trucks. I opted to get two pairs of rears for a dually, which are taller than than regular ones, so as to clear my hubs on both ends. (It does mean I gotta remove the covers to lock the front hubs.)

IMG_3007.JPG


These were used take-offs at $15 a pop. I found some new repops but they all seemed to be for SRW, ie shorter / shallower. The Ebay search is only sort of useful, you end up having to pick by picture.

Anyway, some soap and water and then a trip through the paint booth

IMG_3008.JPG


As they said on Firefly, "Shiny."

Finally, you need plastic lug covers that screw onto the metal lugs and hold on the above covers. (Some of the repop covers come with the lug covers, which is a good thing cost-wise.) If you need them separate, Dorman has these too, #611-607 http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-5324-611-607.aspx They aren't cheap, but I found some on Fleabay that actually drop-shipped from RockAuto.

Then you just run around with a 22mm socket being very careful not to overtighten said pricey plastic fasteners, et voila

IMG_0889.JPG


IMG_3006.JPG


Bowtie bling (emit sigh of contentment here.) Sometimes it's the simple things.

Thanks Martin and the rest of CK5 for yet another project :haha:

-- A
 
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The bits and pieces for the wheel covers came in. They're not quite full-on hubcaps, but maybe I can be an honorary member of the Hubcap Club anyway?

The first thing you need is the conversion lug nuts. Dorman sells them as #611-161, "retrofit" nuts. http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-24386-611-161.aspx They're 9/16-18 inside, and 27-2.0 outside. Martin has the cheap hookup, there's a guy on Ebay that sells em:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/32-LUG-NUTS...-8-LUG-NUTS-CHEVY-GMC-1971-1988-/252377035473

IMG_2998.JPG


Then you need the wheel covers themselves. Searching on CK5 says you want them from '88-98, the GMT400 IFS trucks. I opted to get two pairs of rears for a dually, which are taller than than regular ones, so as to clear my hubs on both ends. (It does mean I gotta remove the covers to lock the front hubs.)

IMG_3007.JPG


These were used take-offs at $15 a pop. I found some new repops but they all seemed to be for SRW, ie shorter / shallower. The Ebay search is only sort of useful, you end up having to pick by picture.

Anyway, some soap and water and then a trip through the paint booth

IMG_3008.JPG


As they said on Firefly, "Shiny."

Finally, you need plastic lug covers that screw onto the metal lugs and hold on the above covers. (Some of the repop covers come with the lug covers, which is a good thing cost-wise.) If you need them separate, Dorman has these too, #611-607 http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-5324-611-607.aspx They aren't cheap, but I found some on Fleabay that actually drop-shipped from RockAuto.

Then you just run around with a 22mm socket being very careful not to overtighten said pricey plastic fasteners, et voila

IMG_0889.JPG


IMG_3006.JPG


Bowtie bling (emit sigh of contentment here.) Sometimes it's the simple things.

Thanks Martin and the rest of CK5 for yet another project :haha:

-- A



I see some red brake calipers behind those wheels?

You runnin' Brembos..... bro? :)


-G
 
X eleventy. Having to remove the hub cap to lock/unlock the hubs is a non starter for me. A hole saw would make short work of it...one way or the other!

That actually was the plan initially, but the dually ones are tall enough to clear the hub and it looks so purty! That and the truck spends most of its life in 2WD ... not like it snows or nothin down here, so if I'm going wheeling it'd be trailered and I'd be prepping her anyway :dunno:

I do have a spare set of covers, could do a hole big enough into which I can insert the magic hub PVC tee tool ... but then I'll hafta paint over the bowtie :( More thinking is required.

-- A
 
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My remembery isn't what it used to be... :)

-G
 
Looks good.

Now you just need to figure out how to make the bow tie rotate.

Martin
 
Looks good.

Now you just need to figure out how to make the bow tie rotate.

Martin

This is one of those times where you could use more words.

I assume you mean for it to spin freely, like those ghetto dub "spinner" wheels, so the bowtie stays stationary while the truck moves.

Or you may be giving me a gentle jab about the truck rarely actually moving :haha:

-- A
 
My take was to find a way to be able to grip and rotate the bowtie, having it actuate the hub dial under it. A fair technical and practical challenge!
 

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