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76 CCDRW...Cummins noises

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well I am bit already...I was figuring if I'm going to replace rebuild I wanted to shoot for 5-600tq....the auto version of this 98 is 420...acceptable, but if the mods are better done out of the truck I may proceed with some to a minimal degree...it runs now, and runs good in the present 98 Dodge, but the fan is hitting the radiator as well, so a lenghty run isn't the best scenario right now.

The yard that is holding the truck called me today and wanted to know if I would be interested in selling some parts....$300 later the seats are gone and a couple overload springs and the stock radio. That will pay about 1/2 the fuel bill to get it home!
 
Leave all the stock hard parts in it for sure. I do not recommend you change injectors turbos delivery valves ect.

With stock parts you can make into 350hp 700ftlbs.

I still firmly recommend an adjustable pump gear set to 16*. 4000 rpm governor springs. And only adjust the stock fuel plate forward slightly and tune the star wheel for appropriate low boost defueling.
 
DEMON44 said:
Leave all the stock hard parts in it for sure. I do not recommend you change injectors turbos delivery valves ect.

With stock parts you can make into 350hp 700ftlbs.

I still firmly recommend an adjustable pump gear set to 16*. 4000 rpm governor springs. And only adjust the stock fuel plate forward slightly and tune the star wheel for appropriate low boost defueling.
Click to expand...

Luke, would you agree about being much easier to do out of the rig as well?

Who's pump gear set up do you recommend? Thats something I think I may spring for on my K5 build.
 
Oh ya for sure. Everything is easier out of body.

The adjustable pump gear is not a hot rod item like some think it is. I push that every engine would benefit from keying the pump to the gear. Set it and forget it. Not set it, hope it stays, check 7 months later to find you've lost 2 degrees already. I guarantee that most would be shocked of they measured their "stock" injection timing. Stock for the mid to late 90s was 12.5-13.5* btdc for emissions. Add a few degrees slipped youre into 8 or 9 degrees. That's brutal for mileage. And efficiency.

Ya the big honkin air filter is a good one to do too. Just a stock fleet guard or equivalent round filter. Pull the silencer ring out of the turbo inlet too. Let that baby sing.
 
There's a pile of places that modify pump gears. Ones not better than another I don't think. Just don't spend more than $350 for a new one though.
 
Since the power goals you're aming for are very mild by 12 valve standards. I actually would put more money into upgrading the trans while its out and just doing the "free" mods to the engine. That way the trans is ready when, not if, you get the urge for more power.

I have a Goerend trans in my dodge and other the one issue which was covered by warrenty its worked out very well for me. Its built with all upgraded clutches, constant pressure valve-body, billet imput shaft and flexplate. Seems odd but my stock flexplate, the center was 80% ripped for the rest of it. Plus a matching triple-disk TC. Dave said that's good for about 500 rwhp with NO boosted launches. That cost me right around $6000 when all said and done.

It was a night and day difference with how the truck drove and towed with the built trans. It was really well worth the money.
 
DEMON44 said:
Leave all the stock hard parts in it for sure. I do not recommend you change injectors turbos delivery valves ect.

With stock parts you can make into 350hp 700ftlbs.

I still firmly recommend an adjustable pump gear set to 16*. 4000 rpm governor springs. And only adjust the stock fuel plate forward slightly and tune the star wheel for appropriate low boost defueling.
Click to expand...

DEMON44 said:
Oh ya for sure. Everything is easier out of body.

The adjustable pump gear is not a hot rod item like some think it is. I push that every engine would benefit from keying the pump to the gear. Set it and forget it. Not set it, hope it stays, check 7 months later to find you've lost 2 degrees already. I guarantee that most would be shocked of they measured their "stock" injection timing. Stock for the mid to late 90s was 12.5-13.5* btdc for emissions. Add a few degrees slipped youre into 8 or 9 degrees. That's brutal for mileage. And efficiency.

Ya the big honkin air filter is a good one to do too. Just a stock fleet guard or equivalent round filter. Pull the silencer ring out of the turbo inlet too. Let that baby sing.
Click to expand...

Luke...the items in red...
these all sound good, I'll need to do some research as to what they are and how to do the mods...any links on that?
Do I need to do them all at once?
Is there an order to do them?

KirsL said:
Since the power goals you're aming for are very mild by 12 valve standards. I actually would put more money into upgrading the trans while its out and just doing the "free" mods to the engine. That way the trans is ready when, not if, you get the urge for more power.

I have a Goerend trans in my dodge and other the one issue which was covered by warrenty its worked out very well for me. Its built with all upgraded clutches, constant pressure valve-body, billet imput shaft and flexplate. Seems odd but my stock flexplate, the center was 80% ripped for the rest of it. Plus a matching triple-disk TC. Dave said that's good for about 500 rwhp with NO boosted launches. That cost me right around $6000 when all said and done.

It was a night and day difference with how the truck drove and towed with the built trans. It was really well worth the money.
Click to expand...

AGREED!
I've been talking with Greg Ducato on this....we're coming up with a plan once I know exactly what I got!
 
The 99 needs a couple more minor items attended to before its ready to go get the Dodge...need to put a winch and battery on the trailer before the trip and we're ready to go get it...right after the Alberta CK5 bash!

Luke we gotta talk more at Deans' place!
 
I had thought the adjustable gear would be better than trying to use the stock gear without taking off the front cover and cleaning before retorquing

I'll probably get that, mine is a 94 and at most it has to have 12*

All the items in red are very easy to do, the gsk being the most intimidating, what I did was take an aluminum can and made a tunnel that wouldn't allow me to drop any parts into the injection pump, took maybe an hour to do both gsk's

Towing rpm's need to be around 2000 rpm, with 3.54's and 34's that makes it around 75 for me, which is too fast when I'm towing my truck and trailer which is around 12k pounds, I'm going to get smaller tires next go around
 
I was reading a few things that suggest an auto engine only be timed to 14* not 16*...is this to help the trans?

My trucks tires are about 31.5 right now....hoping that Dodge has 3.54's and a locker in it, and it will interchange with my D70HD unit I have right now.
 
That's crap. Injection timing has nothing to do with the transmission. Part of the Strategy of the dodge man was to derate the engines that were in front of autos. To try and keep the low down torque from destroying the automatic.

Listen. Injection timing has nothing to do with fuel rate. For the purpose of this conversation. Stock 12 valve ppumps are ultra happy at 16* BTDC injection pump timing.
 
76zimmer said:
My trucks tires are about 31.5 right now....hoping that Dodge has 3.54's and a locker in it, and it will interchange with my D70HD unit I have right now.
Click to expand...

I'm almost positive the gears from the Dodge 70 won't go into the GM 70. The 70 is an odd bird as it uses different pinion offsets which makes gears specific to the housing from which they came. Don't take my word for it, but before you plan your gearing, verify they will swap. Check this page out. There is one D60 listing, one D80 listing and five(!!) D70 listings.
 
DEMON44 said:
That's crap. Injection timing has nothing to do with the transmission. Part of the Strategy of the dodge man was to derate the engines that were in front of autos. To try and keep the low down torque from destroying the automatic.

Listen. Injection timing has nothing to do with fuel rate. For the purpose of this conversation. Stock 12 valve ppumps are ultra happy at 16* BTDC injection pump timing.
Click to expand...

Good Luke, I'll bring along the stuff I've come up with and you can learn me up on it! I'll even sit in your Ford too!:pimp:

DEMON44 said:
For sure. We can sit in my Ford and I'll tell you anything that I know about your cummins.
Click to expand...

mosesburb said:
I'm almost positive the gears from the Dodge 70 won't go into the GM 70. The 70 is an odd bird as it uses different pinion offsets which makes gears specific to the housing from which they came. Don't take my word for it, but before you plan your gearing, verify they will swap. Check this page out. There is one D60 listing, one D80 listing and five(!!) D70 listings.
Click to expand...

Was wondering about that... I got a guy that's good with Dana's and he said he wasn't positive about it either.
 
contacted DTS about the interchangability of the gears.
 
have a feeling it will be a few days for a return email....I'll post it up!
 
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