What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

76 CCDRW...Cummins noises

Overview Gallery Discussion
There is no stored pressure.

Disconnect the feed line to the lift pump. Leave all the other ones attached to the engine.
 
This makes me happy to know!



thanks again Luke!:waytogo:
 
Yes that's a given. Sort of the intent of what I said. Jus didn't actually say it. At work now. Phone typing on my breaks.

Everything ON the engine stays on the engine. Only what's connected to the truck gets disco.

I suppose it didn't cross my mind that I would have to say that.
 
I don't think the feed to the IP is high pressure, it doesn't need to be. The IP generates high pressure. Should be able to undo the line going to the fuel pump (AKA lift pump) on the engine.
 
JDNobodi said:
don't he also need to disconnect the return line also?
Click to expand...

Yes along with a lot of other things, coolant, wiring, exhaust, etc...I get that part of the removal, was just unsure of the fuel feed.

tRustyK5 said:
I don't think the feed to the IP is high pressure, it doesn't need to be. The IP generates high pressure. Should be able to undo the line going to the fuel pump (AKA lift pump) on the engine.
Click to expand...

DEMON44 said:
Lift pump feeds around 45 psi fuel to the injection pump.
Click to expand...

My main concern was not making a headache for myself when putting this in the CC...I wasn't sure if there was something I could do to prevent a fuel delivery problem upon startup. Simply by disconnecting the feed line to the lift pump, I should be fine....I'm assuming gravity feed will be sufficient to prime the lift pump (or will I need to bleed off any trapped air?), and that will intern prime the IP again?
 
Air lock happens, but not so much an issue with the Cummins like it can be with the old 6.2's. luke is probably replying right now, but i'm sure there is a bleed somewhere on the CTD making it not a big deal.
 
cool, I've read injection pump pressure can cut the skin and much worse, so just trying to school myself up on this some, want to avoid anything I could have prevented..:whistle:

Yet another question....My CC is equipped with factory Air, non working of course. I will eventually go with a self contained A/C system like Vintage Air...all inside the cab, but what to do about the heater core and fan for that? I know the A/C evap will have to come off the firewall to make room for the turbo and 4" downpipe, but will it clear a factory heater box setup, like a Non A/C equipped truck? Surely others must have run into this as well.:dunno:
 
76zimmer said:
cool, I've read injection pump pressure can cut the skin and much worse, so just trying to school myself up on this some, want to avoid anything I could have prevented..:whistle:

Yet another question....My CC is equipped with factory Air, non working of course. I will eventually go with a self contained A/C system like Vintage Air...all inside the cab, but what to do about the heater core and fan for that? I know the A/C evap will have to come off the firewall to make room for the turbo and 4" downpipe, but will it clear a factory heater box setup, like a Non A/C equipped truck? Surely others must have run into this as well.:dunno:
Click to expand...


Might be able to see some pics of the down tube on Brett's truck. We have removed all of the factor AC stuff. I can take a measurement for you as well.
 
Lift pump has a primer pump built in. There's no gravity feed. Before you fire it prime the nuts off it for a few min. Till you have fuel at the injection pump.

What I would do is crack the fuel line out of the filter housing and the inlet of the injection pump. Pump primer till filter full. Tighten banjo. Then till all air out of line to IP. Tighten banjo. Then crank. If no fire right away. I crack #1 injection line at the injector till fuel dribble. It would be running. Snug up high pressure line. Ppump is 15,000-17,000 psi injection pressure. Just crank to purge air from #1 line it'll fire pretty quick.


........... OR just crank till it fires. It'll go.
 
If you run the Vintage Air self contained unit the firewall is clean and flat. I'm running an older setup in mine and it comes with a big cover plate to go over where the stock AC/Heater box goes. It opens up tons of room on the firewall. Biggest negative is because of placement of the underdash unit you loose(maybe all of it) most of the glovebox.
 
cybrfire said:
Might be able to see some pics of the down tube on Brett's truck. We have removed all of the factor AC stuff. I can take a measurement for you as well.
Click to expand...

I remember the firewall being cut out for fitment of the huge downtube? Or was I imagining things?
Pics would be a bonus next time your on Bretts truck!

DEMON44 said:
Lift pump has a primer pump built in. There's no gravity feed. Before you fire it prime the nuts off it for a few min. Till you have fuel at the injection pump.

What I would do is crack the fuel line out of the filter housing and the inlet of the injection pump. Pump primer till filter full. Tighten banjo. Then till all air out of line to IP. Tighten banjo. Then crank. If no fire right away. I crack #1 injection line at the injector till fuel dribble. It would be running. Snug up high pressure line. Ppump is 15,000-17,000 psi injection pressure. Just crank to purge air from #1 line it'll fire pretty quick.


........... OR just crank till it fires. It'll go.
Click to expand...


thanks for the procedure Luke! :waytogo:

KirsL said:
If you run the Vintage Air self contained unit the firewall is clean and flat. I'm running an older setup in mine and it comes with a big cover plate to go over where the stock AC/Heater box goes. It opens up tons of room on the firewall. Biggest negative is because of placement of the underdash unit you loose(maybe all of it) most of the glovebox.
Click to expand...

The vintage air has the heater core unit in it? I wasn't aware of that? I thought you had to use the factory heater and the Vintage Air for A/C....:doah:
 
They make a couple different versions but I'm pretty sure that all of them have the heater core in the under-dash unit. Basically makes it like a modern truck.

I have the universal fit system( its about 10 years old) so it has electric solenoids to move the doors and such. It moves a lot of air too.
 
I was looking at the surefit kit. I didn't realize that air box contained the heater core in it....oooof.
 
Yep, its all contained in that box. Unless the new ones are different the worse thing about mine is how close all the hookups for the coolant and refrigerant are. Its a very tight fit. The sure fits system might be set up different.
 
Should I keep the Ddoge air filter and piping or are you guys running something different/better?

Seems to be all the plastic tubing is good still, but I'd like something more cool and efficient.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom