22 hour drive for me to visit fyi
CK5
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76 CCDRW...Cummins noises
- Thread starter 76zimmer
- Start date
22 hour drive for me to visit fyi
Planning a trip to MI?
So with all the wiring I have detached so far, I'm wondering what I actually NEED to make this engine and trans work...
I have a bunch of wiring in the engine compartment that all leads to the fusebox eventually, so I'm guessing I need to keep that?
The fusebox wiring runs into the cab to??? Everything? What to do about all that?
The PCM looks like it is needed to operate the 47RE, unless there is a stand alone controller available?
The engine has way more than a "one wire" hookup....(by the way what is that "one wire"?
Many are wires to sensors, i.e. water in fuel, intake air temp, various engine monitoring sensors, cruise control, etc.
What should I keep, and how can I disconnect? the uneeded without messing up the computer/or other functioning items?
Getting a bit overwhelmed by this part of it right now.
naa just put in my address on map when you posted that link.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
Don't get over whelmed with all that. If you put power to the fuel shutoff solenoid and the starter. The engine will run just fine. Everything else has to do with the dodge truck. But you will need some of it in the Chevy.
There is no really good stand alone system for the 47RE at this time though a couple different companies are supposedly working on one. If you could keep the operating system from the Dodge intact I think that would be a huge bonus.
I hear switching to a GM alternator is the way to go...what mounts to use?
Also for a high mount A/C comp. is there a freightliner bracket to use?
Part #'s?
I'm taking as much off the donor as I can Greg....I see there is 3 main wiring bundles to the trans, and I've read some horror stories about getting the electronics right on this trans. So does a manual valve body alleviate a bunch of electronics?
I know there is a Throttle Valve cable (much like a 700R4) that comes off the throttle lever to the mech pump on the engine, that has to be tight, no play in it to function right...also the throttle position sensor and output shaft sensors have to be "right" for the computer to make the right calls on shifting and lockup...am I getting this right?
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
You bet manual valve body is the way to go.
While the manual VB will alleviate some wiring work I think you wil be better off letting the trans shift as it was designed. If it all works in the Dodge it should work in the Chevy, just get some wiring schematics and see where and what it all goes to.
I think I will plug this combo into the Chevy and see how things work without doing anything to it....That will be most of the swap solved right there!
I haven't been able to find some 98 specific schematics, other than a maybe a service manual....but not sure which one has the wiring stuff in it?
I haven't been able to find some 98 specific schematics, other than a maybe a service manual....but not sure which one has the wiring stuff in it?
I have the 97 service manuals.
Here are some photo copies I've done trying to adapt a 96 engine and transmission harness in a 97.
Here are some photo copies I've done trying to adapt a 96 engine and transmission harness in a 97.
The box in the is the cab computer for the key fob remotes. The Power Train computer for the engine and transmission is on the firewall in the engine compartment.
I'm trying to figure out what I can get rid of?
do you know what I need from the dash?
I figure the OD button, but not sure about what else...maybe I could incorporate the cruise control on the 76 somehow?
do you know what I need from the dash?
I figure the OD button, but not sure about what else...maybe I could incorporate the cruise control on the 76 somehow?
I need to check. I got to figure out how speedometer works. The diagram I posted earlier does not show an output from the computer to the dash. I know from checking my harness, the all the wires going to the computer is accounted for and there are no extra wires. I'm thinking there may be a splice that goes from the sensor to the dash. The computer controls the transmission, A/C, the speed control, the grid heater, the alternator, and the warning lights. Most of this is on the engine harness. The auto shut down relay, trans relay, A/C relay, starter relay, battery temp sensor and the vehicle speed control are on the Under hood harness. Brake switch, ignition switch, park/neutral switch, O/D switch, speed control switches, A/C switch, and all the warning lights are in the cab harness. Abs must controlled by the in/cab computer, so that is one thing you could get rid of.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
I built a hybrid harness from my '94 dodge harness into the '97 Chevy. It was not hard just time consuming lay each schematic side by side. I used schematics printed off that automotive repair service that most private shops have. Can't remember what it's called just now though.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
76 CrewCab Dually, 11/09..Cummins removal from Dodge body
Personally. I would dumb down the dodge crap to the level of your '76. Not try and smarten the Chevy up to the level of a '97. But that's just me. You don't have an "electronic" truck in that '76. You do not need most of that **** in the dodge harness. You need the PCM to control the tranny, and fire the stock alt. that's it. The engine harness is almost purely for the benefit of the dodge truck. It has no bearing on the function of the engine.
I would in fact put a manual valve body in that 47. And for go the PCM all together. Put a Chevy alt on it and call it a day.
The dodge autos are garbage at best in stock trim. A stocker will live a shortened tortured life behind a 500hp cummins.
The very best thing you can do for them without getting into its guts is put an upgraded valve body and torque in it. So might as well be a full manual one in your case.
Personally. I would dumb down the dodge crap to the level of your '76. Not try and smarten the Chevy up to the level of a '97. But that's just me. You don't have an "electronic" truck in that '76. You do not need most of that **** in the dodge harness. You need the PCM to control the tranny, and fire the stock alt. that's it. The engine harness is almost purely for the benefit of the dodge truck. It has no bearing on the function of the engine.
I would in fact put a manual valve body in that 47. And for go the PCM all together. Put a Chevy alt on it and call it a day.
The dodge autos are garbage at best in stock trim. A stocker will live a shortened tortured life behind a 500hp cummins.
The very best thing you can do for them without getting into its guts is put an upgraded valve body and torque in it. So might as well be a full manual one in your case.
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Dumbing down sounds like a good plan for me!
I plan on a upgraded rebuild of the RE along with a billet conv built by Greg Ducato for this app
Ill get my buddy to come help me with blending the wiring and get rid of as much as possible
I plan on a upgraded rebuild of the RE along with a billet conv built by Greg Ducato for this app
Ill get my buddy to come help me with blending the wiring and get rid of as much as possible
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
Maybe that's what I'm not following. What are you blending too ? Like what harness in the Chevy are you blending too ?
All the engine sensors can be wired in directly. Get some actual gauges. If you want some actual monitoring capability. Dummy dash guages aren't good enough in my books.
If you build the tranny, put 48re parts in it.
All the engine sensors can be wired in directly. Get some actual gauges. If you want some actual monitoring capability. Dummy dash guages aren't good enough in my books.
If you build the tranny, put 48re parts in it.
Luke, there is the majority of my problem...I don't know!!!
I get the gauge stuff, I think I can get through that OK on my own...and already have a full set of Autometer Phantom II's and new dash for it.
The PCM needs power, but I'm guessing it must be switched....by the ignition switch?
The 47RE needs throttle position input and TSS output to operate.
The intake heater grid looks like it functions to some extent anytime the temp is 59*F or colder, that needs to be a switched source...Dodge does it with the ign. key on position....just a bunch of stuff like that?
I get the gauge stuff, I think I can get through that OK on my own...and already have a full set of Autometer Phantom II's and new dash for it.
The PCM needs power, but I'm guessing it must be switched....by the ignition switch?
The 47RE needs throttle position input and TSS output to operate.
The intake heater grid looks like it functions to some extent anytime the temp is 59*F or colder, that needs to be a switched source...Dodge does it with the ign. key on position....just a bunch of stuff like that?
The grid heater is controlled by the PCM.
