CK5
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Plenty of room to rework that stuff too especially if you go with the vintage air stuff.
agreed Eric, I have a feeling things up front will be more crowded than at the firewall.
I contacted Autoworld (where the engine mounts came from) today, and talked with Ken, he is going to look at his C30 conversion truck to see where his sits in the chassis compared to mine, its a 73 with a 97 12v in it.
I sent him some pics of my present positioning to compare.

..I have made up my mind on the vintage air unit, not sure to what level of kit of theirs to get just yet, Kert used his factory condensor (bigger unit) instead of the Vintage air piece.
My Dodge condensor is smashed up a bit from the crash, and I sent my old A/C stuff to Martin, still have the good Dodge compressor, so I may use that.

So with all the body on/off scenarios coming up, and my knees and back complaining as much as they do, I DON'T THINK I CAN WAIT ANY LONGER TO GET A 2 POST LIFT
I've been thinking a 2 post lift would be a great investment, I've looked just a bit, and found a couple that will handle 9000lbs and are only 111" high, will lift up to 72" and would serve me pretty good in my present garage attached to the house...it only has about 106" to the bottom of the trusses, and I think I can make a few minor mods if needed to make a shorter height unit work in there for now. Eventually I'd like to add onto my exsiting shop with a 14' wall height to make full use of the lift. Right now something in the present garage would get me usable for stuff like this...lifting the body high enough to get the rolling chassis out from under it, and/or lifting the body high enough to mount to a rotisserie.

Has anyone had any experience with 2 post lifts? Whats a good type/brand to be looking at?
 
That's going to be awesome Dave. One day I will have my own lift also. Rotary makes the best above ground lifts in my opinion.
 
I have been looking quite a bit and I think the asymetrical lifts are great, and for me its between Bendpak and Rotary. But now it will be a couple years or so.
 
So I have talked to about a hundred guys about lifts. 3 whose opinion I value highly. All 3 of these guys were mechanics most of their lives, one still is, and 2 of them had multiple bay shops so they knew a ton about lifts.


Most guys say you don't need a rotary or bend pack. They are super nice lifts. They said get a lift that will handle the weight. But beyond that its mostly about what you can get with the lift. The little accessories add up.

The reason they said this is because virtually all lifts sold today are safe. Very stringent rules apply to the manufacture and design of said lifts.

In your garage Dave the biggest thing is where are the locks. With some figuring you could probably get a bit more lift out of one vs another.

I would also investigate safety stops. See if the manufacturer has a stop for how high you can go and if that can be adjusted. Very important in your low ceiling application.
 
Yeah, I work out of my buddy's shop, and he has hoists that are not Bendpak, or Rotary. They go up and down, all day, almost every day. It is unnecessary to buy the name.

Martin
 
I can send it back if you want it.

Martin
I had already made up my mind to get a new piece Martin, I would have only used the 76 piece for mockup anyway....I had just remembered that Kert used his OEM piece for his 80's cab...it is bigger than the vintage piece, and his was in great shape, so no need to buy a new one. The vintage system works great as a kit from what I hear, so I was leaning towards that as a whole, but I may use some Dodge pieces if they fit well...I'll have to see what kind of space I have to work with up there before I decide.
 
So I have talked to about a hundred guys about lifts. 3 whose opinion I value highly. All 3 of these guys were mechanics most of their lives, one still is, and 2 of them had multiple bay shops so they knew a ton about lifts.


Most guys say you don't need a rotary or bend pack. They are super nice lifts. They said get a lift that will handle the weight. But beyond that its mostly about what you can get with the lift. The little accessories add up.

The reason they said this is because virtually all lifts sold today are safe. Very stringent rules apply to the manufacture and design of said lifts.

In your garage Dave the biggest thing is where are the locks. With some figuring you could probably get a bit more lift out of one vs another.

I would also investigate safety stops. See if the manufacturer has a stop for how high you can go and if that can be adjusted. Very important in your low ceiling application.

Yeah, I work out of my buddy's shop, and he has hoists that are not Bendpak, or Rotary. They go up and down, all day, almost every day. It is unnecessary to buy the name.

Martin
good to hear, the nice bendpak units are over 140" high and I don't see getting that into my garage as is...I don't want to have to re-engineer the trusses to get it to fit.
 
I seem to remember you saying you couldn't build another building on your property right?
 
The shop is as big as it can be for where its at (in front of the house 24x32x8H) I can apply for a variance ($400 fee) and hope they will let me add on to the existing structure (32Lx16Wx14H) Or if I go behind the house (6 acres to choose from) I can go as big as I can afford (which isn't possible if I hope to retire in a few years)
 
2wd crossmember and 4wd are different. Your 2wd is sort of swept forward in the middle where as the 4wd counterpart is not.
 
2wd crossmember and 4wd are different. Your 2wd is sort of swept forward in the middle where as the 4wd counterpart is not.
Very good to know Kert, thanks!
So by about 1.5-2"?
That would put it where it needs to be I think.
Still waiting to hear from AutoWorld (Ken) on his C30 and how his is sitting in the frame
 
Very good to know Kert, thanks!
So by about 1.5-2"?
That would put it where it needs to be I think.
Still waiting to hear from AutoWorld (Ken) on his C30 and how his is sitting in the frame

I'm not 100% sure if they reside in the exact same place on the frame. Gotta be pretty close. While the 4wd cross is dipped down in the center presumably for harmonic balancer clearance and the 2wd is curved forward and I'd guess for the same reason, I really don't know why they were done differently and if they are mounted in the same place. Just throwing out some info that might help.
 
You could compare the locations on the frame between your blazer and your crew cab. Just take a measurement from the body mount bolt to the cross member rivets.
 
You could compare the locations on the frame between your blazer and your crew cab. Just take a measurement from the body mount bolt to the cross member rivets.
From the ballpark measurements I can get it looks like the 2wd crossmember leans forward about 2" and the 4wd is pretty much vertical .
That would put the engine right where it needs to be from what I'm reading and hearing from others.
Seems a 2wd isn't very popular to put the Cummins into.
The two pics compare the 4wd (75k5 frame) and the 2wd (76C30) frames.
image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
From the ballpark measurements I can get it looks like the 2wd crossmember leans forward about 2" and the 4wd is pretty much vertical .
That would put the engine right where it needs to be from what I'm reading and hearing from others.
Seems a 2wd isn't very popular to put the Cummins into.
The two pics compare the 4wd (75k5 frame) and the 2wd (76C30) frames.
View attachment 199093 View attachment 199094

Are the cross-members the same between the 1/2-ton and 1-ton frames?
 
That I don't know...I know the 1ton stuff is thicker to start out and I believe the 2wd frames are a bit differently shaped than the 4wd because of the front axle having to fit up there. It looks like the engine sits a bit lower in the 2wd frame than in the 4wd also.
Kert had the insight to know the 2 and 4wd front were different and I believe his 89? CC started out 2wd
He's had a few of these trucks apart to have a good idea.
 
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