CK5
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Got the trans mounted and setup @ 4* tail shaft down (AutoWorld recommendation)
Had to tap and chase threads as it felt like some of the threads Had boogered up threads in the holes. Seemed odd these bolts were 3/8-16 and everything else is metric on the engine, could the have been replaced???
 
I'd bet that cross member between the 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton are pretty much the same. Haven't actually compared them but this strikes me as a piece that GM would have kept the same between the bunch.
 
Hey dave as far as the lift goes name brand doesn't mean anything. My dad has Grand two post 9k, he bought from a GM Dealer that went under. I think he only paid 1200 for it, and it works great. Lifts his extended cab long box 2500HD with the 8.1 with ease. Only thing I would look for is if the lift has the extended pads unless you have 6-8" of concrete under it. The lift fits in his 12' ceilings by about 1/8". Working under a lift that can't lift that high kinda kills your back. Its nice to have the additional room. That being said I wish I had the extra cash for a lift in my shop. Would have made pulling the transfer case in my dmax stupid easy.
 
EventuallyI want to add onto the back of the shop the 32' width of it and another 16' deep that would make it 32x40 total
That expansion would be at least 12' high with a higher center truss section for the lift to be fully effective.
 
Now that the engine is set in the frame, and I have the trans adapter in place, I can use a barring tool to turn the flywheel for a more precise movement. This allowed me to move in fractions of a degree, instead of a couple degrees as was happening at the crank snout.
so now I have true TDC as measured by the drop valve method...which basically means you turn the rocker arm adjuster until the valve is .100 off its seat, then bring the piston CW up until it just touches the valve, and you notice .002 thousandths of deflection at the valve tip. then you do the same thing CCW and split the difference ending up with true TDC. Its much the same as degreeing a camshaft.
so now that I have true TDC I can precisely time the injection pump to get the exact # of degrees of timing I was shooting for to begin with!DSCN2004 (1280x960).jpg
 
I was wondering if any progress had been made on this build good too see you back at it!
 
very little honestly...been doing some research on lifts, and trying to find a feasible way to add another 16x32 onto the shop so I can have a place to put the lift and more usable shop space. Also trying to figure out how I can put the lift into my existing attached garage on the house and still be able to make good day to day use of it as a garage, not an extension of the shop.
I considered selling the HD to help with a shop expansion, I just don't ride it much anymore and I would get way more use out of the shop space...but I just have a hard time letting stuff go, especially when I put some work into it to make it what it is!

In other breaking news...the kids are closing on their house Friday, and while it means a busy weekend of moving them out, it will eventually lead to more free time for me! Sure gonna miss my grandkids being around though...its been an awesome thing to watch them grow another (almost) year...my grandson is 3-1/2 now and really becoming interested in what "PA" is doing in the shop sometimes!
 
My oldest Grandson will be 7 this year, so whenever he's here he and I go do "man stuff". We have a blast!

He's got the "man grunt" down pat.
 
image.jpeg image.jpeg Got the kids moved out this weekend and have been trying to get my house back in order. Making some progress there, but I also managed to get the injection pump timing finalized at 16.5* by dialing it in measuring delivery valve lift to 5.00mm at true TDC. That will provide a good start for towing.
The adjustable pump gear will allow changes to be made by loosening the 6 bolts and taking out the smaller allenhead bolt and advancing the pump to the next hole in the gear, which will give 2* more timing.
The "A" is to move the gear in the direction of the arrow to Advance the timing.
 
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image.jpeg image.jpeg I could not turn the engine precisely enough to accurately find TDC while on my engine stand and not being able to have the flywheel on. So too put the flywheel on, the trans adapter has to be in place to use the barring tool in the hole providing access to the flywheel ring gear teeth, finally having it sitting in the frame allows all the pieces to be in place making precise flywheel movement a breeze.
 
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Did you have trouble with your universal falling out of your barring tool? Mine (an OTC) couldn't hold anything since it didn't have the notch for the detent. It got real annoying have to crawl under the truck to hook it back up.
 
No, I got lucky there, although the barring tool would slip on the flywheel sometimes!
 
Yeah, it seems the gear mesh isn't right for the barring tool. Mine worked fine, but I did a Homer when I tried to start it with the barring tool in place. After the ratchet spun around and fell off. I stopped immediately. The barring tool was stuck on the outside teeth of the flywheel. I had to twist it off with channel locks.
 
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Gotta laugh because I've done so many things like that....like leaving a socket and ratchet on a crank balancer bolt, then starting the engine..... Luckily for me it fell to the ground after hitting the crossmember....doah!
 
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