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76 K5 Build; More Parts....Trucks

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Went out and hit a bog today. Mainly to get a little more run time on the motor and see what works best for gear choice.

Hit the pit a few times. Motor ran awesome in any gear I stuck it in (Lo/Hi, 2nd/3rd). Cut Boggers on the back worked great as well. Had a few problems that eventually put me on the trailer.

First problem was that the power steering pulley decided to walk its self off the pump. After the first run in the pit my belt started squealing, figuring it was just wet we didn't think much of it. Shut it off and let it dry out. Fired it up and got back in line to run again. Sitting there idling I noticed the steering felt like it was loosing it's assist again. A few seconds later the belt came off. Shut it down and found the power steering pulley half off, which would explain the squealing belt. Was able to press it back on with a nut/bolt from my tool kit. Left the bolt in there and used the nut to jam it on to lock it down. I don't know if the pulley is getting worn out from having it off/on so many times or if that re-man pump's shaft is junk, but the fix held the rest of the day.

Problem number two was noticed just before the belt came off. My voltage gauge was only reading 10volts. Not good when you have an electric fuel pump and fans. Made my run and let it cool off again. This was an easy fix. Remember that second alternator I installed way back in the beginning of the thread? Well it was for situations just like this. Two minutes to switch the wiring to the other one and I was back in business...14volts at idle.

Third problem popped up after the last run. It had been cranking over slower and slower each time I started the truck. Mud/water was getting packed into the starter. Tried tapping on it a few times but all we got out of it was a click. Got a pull start and went to get back in line for another run. It was at this time that the 4th problem arose and is what ended my day. My clutch linkage had come apart and needed some adjustment. I got it back together (with the motor running and working around the hot exhaust), but the adjustment was too far off. Pedal all the way down and was still grinding when trying to get it into gear. Also my throttle had gotten sticky and was hanging open....decided to call it a day after that and winched it onto the trailer.


For the fixes. I'm going to try leaving the bolt in the power steering pump to keep the pulley on. If that doesn't work will try a different pulley (I've got about 6 of them I think), if it still walks....then a tack weld will hold it. Alternator, I'll let it dry out and see if it charges. If not, I've got about six of those as well to swap to a good one. Same goes for the starter. Remove/clean/reinstall. If it sounds like ass, I've got a couple newer gear reduction ones I'll throw in. Throttle cable will get a good lube job.

To deal with the clutch issue, I've been getting ready to drop one of my Nv4500's in. Started a thread in the Garage about which direction I should go. I was really leaning toward modifying my current mechanical bell to work with one of the 5speeds. Up until this point I have had no issues with my clutch linkage. We might be going out next weekend, so I'll give it one more chance. But I'll probably go with the hydro setup that I have. Will need to change over to hydro-boost brakes...but that's probably a plus.


It was starting to get dark when I got home and I didn't feel like unloading and washing. Will do that tomorrow after work.







Tossed this guy together earlier this week. Gets my extra front axles off the floor. Bottom one is the 10B I took out of the blazer when I put the D60 in. Good bearings/ball joints and has a locker. I robbed the rotors for my rear disc's. Top one is the HP44 for my other build I'm planning. All the external parts are in boxes on the storage loft.

 
dam good idea...getting axles off the floor is a good move! Now it needs some casters!
 
I thought about casters, but didn't have any on hand that would be big enough. It's back in the corner out of the way. When i have to move it to insulate that part of the wall I'll probably make it mobile.
 
Power washed the truck/trailer today. Replaced the starter and found some burned wires. Took care of those, which was probably why the starter didn't work. Haven't tested the one I took out.

Tried adjusting the clutch. Fork popped off the ball stud. Has happened before, usually getting down there and prying it over works....will worry about that when I can get it into the barn.

When I was unloading from the trailer I totally forgot about the sticky throttle cable...made it interesting. Wrote myself a note and stuck it to the steering wheel so I don't forget to take care of it before I move it next time.




Got a couple videos from yesterday. Both of the same run. One is my cousin holding the camera (phone) inside. I told him to buckle up, and he did....still bounced off the ceiling, so the video is mainly for the sound effects. Second one is from my friend filming from the side...again with a phone.



 
82355 said:
Hydraulic clutch is the answer. The mechanical linkage sucks.

Martin
Click to expand...


I've pretty much made up my mind on switching over to hydro. Now I just need to decide on using my early Nv4500 or the later one.
 
Started my Nv4500 swap today. Still need to decide which one I want to use, either the newer or the older one. Started a thread on it in the Garage (http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=322560)

Got the floor hump off, fluids drained and drive shafts pulled. Should be able to drop the trans/t-case out in the next day or so. Just from some quick eyeball measuring, looks like the 5speed/208 is about 7" longer than the 465/205. I'll need to shorten my rear drive shaft and most likely find a new front (don't know if I want to lengthen the current one, it's been chopped a bunch of times already).

My choice of 4500's





Floor hump off. Despite spending a couple hours with the power washer, you can never really get on top of the transmission. Also need to drill a couple drain holes in my floor boards for some body plugs. I usually just open the doors and go to town with the hose, easier to get the grit to flow out when you have a drain hole.





Shafts out.




Also replaced my throttle cable today as well. No pics of that though....kinda boring.
 
Dropped the 465/205 out tonight. Found the source of my clutch troubles...it was the throwout bearing getting stuck on the shaft. The back part of it (where the clutch fork rides) had come apart and at about the point where it would push the disc it would bind. So I guess I can stand by my comments that I have never had any real problems with my mechanical clutch linkage. None the less...the hydro parts are going in.


Work smarter....not harder.







Bad bearing.




How it looks now.





When pulling the distributor cap (to prevent it from breaking against the firewall when the motor rocked back) I found the button quite worn down. I can't remember exactly how worn it was when I put it on...but I know it wasn't this bad. I have another button around somewhere I'll replace this one with. Motor still ran good and wasn't showing any signs of ignition problems, but better to stay ahead of the problem.

 
Hoisted up the 4500/208 this afternoon. Used the cherry picker through the door/floor again. I used the correc "W" shaped cross memember but I think I'll change that out for one of the earlier flat ones. Either way I'll need to modify the passenger side for driveshaft clearance and I've got quite a supply of the flat ones. Picked up a new throwout bearing too. Figured it'd be a good idea while it was out.


5speed in.






Don't think my driveshaft will like going in there too much.




One of my extra flat cross memembers in the background.




Still need to swap pedals, brake master cylinders, modify driveshafts, clutch master/slave and fluid in both cases. I might get back out there tonight and start on the pedals.
 
Went back out and pulled the pedals. That involved pulling the drivers seat, steering column, brake booster and master cylinder. Most of that was getting changed anyway so no real loss on the work done. Also stuck my front drive shaft on the output of the t-case. It clears the cross memeber fine (I was surprised by this), just need to add about 8" to it. So I'll probably end up leaving the "W" in there.

Will try getting the hole for the old pushrod patched tomorrow along with the new hole for the hydro push rod drilled and hopefully the interior back together.


Think I may have found the probelm with my brakes. Pretty sure there isn't supposed to be water in there....





Hydro stuff on right, mechanical/vac on left.





Hole in firwall. Will knock all the dirt off and clean up the wiring before I re-assemble.



 
Patched the floor and hung the pedals tonight.

Used a piece of the hood from my old 87 K5 (the one in my avatar). Installed the pedals and holes drilled for the master cylinder and support rods. Being my tub is pre-hydro clutch parts I was basically shooting in the dark for the holes. The support rods make it somewhat easy to figure it out though. The master I got with my hydro pedals fits just fine....lets hope the one from RockAuto does too.


I found this diagram when searching for master cylinder pics. Didn't really need it as my wiper motor mounts different and that's what it locates the holes off of.





Pedals in and floor patched. Will throw some paint on the welds once I get done working in there.

 
campfire said:
Cool progress! I'll prolly be doing my NV4500 swap in the next couple months. :popcorn:





Lemme know if you ever do come up to Drummond Island. Or any part of da UP, for that matter.
Click to expand...




I'm just about done wrapping my swap up....actually it is done, just need to road test. Went super easy, basically a remove/replace affair. But I've also had this truck and dozens of other ones apart so I know exactly what I'm in for when I start a project.

I've been to the island once, never with the truck though. My boss has been up there with her Jeep before on a couple group runs. She seems to like it....the island, not the Jeep crowd. Lol. If I could get the time off, I'd take the K5 up there when she goes on the next one. But I'm the one who does her work when she's gone (and she does mine when I'm gone) so that's unlikely to happen. One of these days I'll make it up there with the Blazer though. I will be going to the Bundy Hill run this fall, already put in for the time off.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Finished up the loose ends on the Nv4500 swap today.

Over the last week I've been chipping away it. Shortened the rear drive shaft and lengthened the front. Welded a second fitting into the power steering reservoir, the "T" I initially tried was causing a restriction and not letting the brake pedal return after being pressed. Steering seems to be about the same as before, brakes are sooo much better with the hydro boost. Of course had I had a good vacuum booster in there they probably wouldn't have been too bad before.

Used a new square body master cylinder (FWIW: Dorman ones are metal vs. the factory plastic) and new Gmt400 slave (ended up with plastic one this one). Had to buy a new line as I didn't have one with the correct end on it for the slave. Cut the new line and spliced it together with some unions to connect it to the master. To bleed the system I had to disconnect the slave from the transmission and pump the pushrod to draw the fluid into it. Took about 5min to do.

Found a factory 208 shifter and was even able to use the hole from the 205 shifter. Needed to move the hole for the transmission shifter about 6" back, welded a patch for the old one in.

Picked up some Royal Purple for the fluid in the trans. After many hours of reading I concluded that it was safe to use, some rebuild shops even supply it with their rebuilt units. Used regular ATF in the t-case.

Still need to road test a little bit. We've been getting quite a bit of rain the last couple days so I only backed it out of the barn and onto the gravel. Driving on the dirt, the Boggers will pick up a ton of mud and I don't want to deal with that inside. That and I won't run those tires on the street at all. Will put my 37's or roller 31's on for an actual road test.



First time it's been outside in a week or two.




Old vs. New transmission holes. New one is in the middle. Had to square off the t-case shifter hole for the 208 one to sit flush. Welded a patch over the old transmission hole and the little cut out on the t-case one.





New sticks shot. I have the factory boot for the Nv4500 as well as the one from the Sm465, undecided on which one I will use. Probably have the plastic box for the 208 shifter somewhere. The knob that's on the 4500 is going to get replaced with something better. The one on there is a cheap universal one that is broken (top is missing).





Few things I still plan on doing, power steering cooler, hydro assist and a better air cleaner setup.

The steering cooler I'd like to do for the added volume mainly. When I was originally bleeding the steering/boost system the lines were getting super hot (probably from the "T'd" return lines). Even after I got that straightened out they are still getting a little warm. Not sure how hot they normally run, never paid attention.

Hydro assist is pretty self explanatory. Will probably use Surplus Center parts to do it on the cheap. My steering box is already drilled/tapped and I have the mounts on the axle already so I just need the ram and lines.

Air cleaner, I'm running a factory one with a 14" element. It does a pretty good job of keeping the carb dry. But on the last run when I removed it there was a bunch of water in it. I'm going to try putting the plastic hose back on it with some kind of shield on the end of it. Thinking of a can within a can type deal.
 
They look like they are leather (they are not), and they are heavier than the earlier ones.

Martin
 
Facebook strikes again!

Picked up another parts truck today. Saw it posted a few days ago for best offer and thought about it but figured it'd go for more than what I got it for. He had a few offers and low balls, someone offered $450 but never followed through on it. He bumped the post friday night saying $450 takes it, that's when I jumped on it.

It's an 86 3/4 ton Camper Special. 465/205, hydro clutch. He said the motor had been rebuilt by a local shop shortly before he got it. New stainless Hedman headers, 3.42's in the SF14/10B. I put a battery in it, had to jump the starter, and it fired right up after turning over maybe 3 times. He said it had been sitting for about 6 months. Motor runs great and seems to have a lot of power....so I'll take his word that it's been gone through.

He got it about a year ago and never really did anything with it. Was out in the field doing donuts with it and the passenger rear tire went flat. He kept on going and hit a log then rolled it onto it's lid. He must have been spinning fairly fast because I've never been close to rolling one of these trucks like that. Cab is shot, no floors/corners/rockers....so no real loss there. Drivers side of the box is rusty, but the passenger side and floor are nice. It's had a newer Blazer/Sub front clip put on it sometime in it's past too.

Plans are to pull the motor/trans/t-case, headers, hydro pedals, front clip/core support, radiator, dash pad and manual window regulators for myself. I should be able to sell the axles for $200-300 and I think I may have the frame sold already. Scrap the body if I can't find a buyer for the box. Will probably break even or somewhere around there.












 
y5mgisi said:
Pretty sweet score!
Click to expand...

brans87 said:
Dang nice score there easy to make you $ back!
Click to expand...

I'm pretty happy with it.

I think I'll do alright money wise on it. I didn't really need any of the parts, but the deal was too good to pass up.

The window regulators will end up in the K5 to replace my non-working power windows. Core support/radiator will end up in my 84 shortbox. The inner fenders will go to the 86 shortbox I picked up a while back.

Motor/trans/case will get pulled for my stash along with the hydro pedals. I've got a spare mechanical set of pedals that I've been holding on to that I'll let go with the extra 465/205.
 
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