What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

77 C20 hauler to crawler

Overview Gallery Discussion
So I was ordering a new range selector fork for my crawler a few minutes ago... In my eBay adventure I found some NP205 yokes and I started to wonder what you guys are running? In my crawler I'm running 1410s in the rear without a double cardan/CV whatever you want to call it and it works without any binding issues, even being linked. In the front I'm running a stock dodge 1350 flange style double cardan driveshaft and it works fine BUT I have a high pinion 60 without a lot of lift so that takes care of most of the driveshaft angle problems. So my question is this... With the extra DS length needed for my 203/205 will I be able to run a driveshaft without a double cardan joint and 1350 u-joints or will they bind? I am pretty confident that I can step it up to 1410s without this issue but I don't know if I want to go that big on the Frontend. I would like to keep it as simple as possible but when I swapped in the 32 spline front output I decided the little 1310 yoke just isn't gona cut it on this one. If I can get away with a driveshaft with 2 1350 joints I'll just use one of my 1350 rear yokes. And if that won't work I'll just order a 1410 yoke for the diff and the t-case. Oh and I'm running 56" springs up front so I should have plenty of suspension travel to deal with.
 
You are going to have to cycle the suspension and see where you are.
You will be able to use and angle finder and see where you are.

My guess is with the extra length a 2 joint shaft should be fine. Typically I dont think 1310s are a problem.

Front is a standard pinion on this one correct?
 
bent72 said:
You are going to have to cycle the suspension and see where you are.
You will be able to use and angle finder and see where you are.

My guess is with the extra length a 2 joint shaft should be fine. Typically I dont think 1310s are a problem.

Front is a standard pinion on this one correct?
Click to expand...
Thanks! Sounds like a good opportunity for some poser shots... I thought about keeping 1310s and I honestly don't know that I gain a whole lot of strength with a 1350? I'm usually pretty gentle on the throttle but I do have my moments and want it to be able to take a little abuse. Man if I can get away with a 2 joint shaft that will be awesome. And yes the front is a standard pinion. It's actually a first gen dodge Dana 60.
sreidmx said:
1350 should be fine..
Click to expand...
I don't know if I trust your opinion nun killa... Do you know if I can get 1480 yokes for a 205 and a 60? I must protect nuns orphans and baby seals... Oh and kittens too.
 
I beat the he!! out of the K5. Never broke a 1310. But run what you have is always cost effective

I peruse Tom woods' site a lot for info on the angles and strength numbers. I haven't checked HAD's site, but I know a lot of guys here use them too with good results
 
F.S.F.W said:
So I was ordering a new range selector fork for my crawler a few minutes ago... In my eBay adventure I found some NP205 yokes and I started to wonder what you guys are running? In my crawler I'm running 1410s in the rear without a double cardan/CV whatever you want to call it and it works without any binding issues, even being linked. In the front I'm running a stock dodge 1350 flange style double cardan driveshaft and it works fine BUT I have a high pinion 60 without a lot of lift so that takes care of most of the driveshaft angle problems. So my question is this... With the extra DS length needed for my 203/205 will I be able to run a driveshaft without a double cardan joint and 1350 u-joints or will they bind? I am pretty confident that I can step it up to 1410s without this issue but I don't know if I want to go that big on the Frontend. I would like to keep it as simple as possible but when I swapped in the 32 spline front output I decided the little 1310 yoke just isn't gona cut it on this one. If I can get away with a driveshaft with 2 1350 joints I'll just use one of my 1350 rear yokes. And if that won't work I'll just order a 1410 yoke for the diff and the t-case. Oh and I'm running 56" springs up front so I should have plenty of suspension travel to deal with.
Click to expand...

you got any ford dana 60 axle stub shafts lying around or access to one? Use the axle yoke on the transfer case end of your front driveshaft. gives you a 1350 and the extra radius for steering already machined on the yoke lets the driveshaft cycle without binding. I have those ends on both transfer case ends of my driveshafts. we were worried the rear might not balance, but it ended up great. no vibrations at all, even when I daily drove it. for the front of yours it would a non issue. also lets every U-joint on my rig be a 1350..so I only need one size spare.....Down side is you gotta use a ford product..they are the only ones factory machined out as much.

this truck should be named AMTRAK..cause this thread has more derails than they do
 
Blazooki said:
you got any ford dana 60 axle stub shafts lying around or access to one? Use the axle yoke on the transfer case end of your front driveshaft. gives you a 1350 and the extra radius for steering already machined on the yoke lets the driveshaft cycle without binding. I have those ends on both transfer case ends of my driveshafts. we were worried the rear might not balance, but it ended up great. no vibrations at all, even when I daily drove it. for the front of yours it would a non issue. also lets every U-joint on my rig be a 1350..so I only need one size spare.....Down side is you gotta use a ford product..they are the only ones factory machined out as much.

this truck should be named AMTRAK..cause this thread has more derails than they do
Click to expand...
Are you talking about the big hub low pinion 60 that came in the 70s highboys? Lol Amtrak... That's funny! I missed out on this derailment yesterday!
 
Blazooki said:
you got any ford dana 60 axle stub shafts lying around or access to one? Use the axle yoke on the transfer case end of your front driveshaft. gives you a 1350 and the extra radius for steering already machined on the yoke lets the driveshaft cycle without binding. I have those ends on both transfer case ends of my driveshafts. we were worried the rear might not balance, but it ended up great. no vibrations at all, even when I daily drove it. for the front of yours it would a non issue. also lets every U-joint on my rig be a 1350..so I only need one size spare.....Down side is you gotta use a ford product..they are the only ones factory machined out as much.

this truck should be named AMTRAK..cause this thread has more derails than they do
Click to expand...

I like this idea. Thanks for sharing!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom