Just scrolled up. Ok GMT400 bell with the passenger side external slave. Let me surf through the parts catalog to see if I can nail down the right combo.
CK5
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77 K5 Just had to do it
- Thread starter Capt Ron
- Start date
Stock 1995 nv4500, I picked up another 2wd 4500 on Saturday with a different style clutch arm/ball stud I might try if it ever quits raining!
So far what I'm finding the 94-95 stuff is the same. Funny thing is the image/drawing in the parts catalog shows the ball pivot on the fork uses a separate seat and retainer. But looking at an aftermarket fork on NapaProlink shows nothing for the ball seat or retainer. Odd.
The fork in the foreground is from a 95 2wd and the ball stud has a pin that sticks out with a sheet metal style washer that holds it on.
The fork in the background is the style currently installed and has a 2 prong conventional style clip that holds it on. Are those the styles you are looking at?
![IMG_20190617_192110556[2].jpg](https://ck5.com/forums/data/attachments/284/284168-82bf5f9a6496d01fef423e779fd7d5d5.jpg "IMG_20190617_192110556[2].jpg"){kind=small}
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By no means are the drawings in the catalog 100% right on, they don't show the stamped sheetmetal retainer on the 4wd fork in the background.
I have a couple 4500 bells at work and 2 or three at home, I will gather everything together tomorrow night and measure/mic and try to figure it out.
I might even pick up a medium height t/o bearing and see if that places the clutch arm closer to the inspection hole. Current one is 30mm.
I might even pick up a medium height t/o bearing and see if that places the clutch arm closer to the inspection hole. Current one is 30mm.
I had the wrong clutch fork installed. The arched one in the foreground of the above pic was the right one.
I had a hard time bleeding the clutch but ended up reverse bleeding by plunging the slave back and forth.
I now have good release and freeplay but the pedal seems too stiff. Fingers crossed it gets a bit better with some miles put on it.
I got it all put back together. Gas and a battery it should start/move /stop under its own power but still do not have any exhaust.
I had a hard time bleeding the clutch but ended up reverse bleeding by plunging the slave back and forth.
I now have good release and freeplay but the pedal seems too stiff. Fingers crossed it gets a bit better with some miles put on it.
I got it all put back together. Gas and a battery it should start/move /stop under its own power but still do not have any exhaust.
Excellent news. I'd give the clutch a few miles to wear in and see how it goes. What clutch did you end up using by the way?
I got a 12" Luk from NAPA part # 1104105. It was one that Larry recommended.
Might be the same one I used on my 350 in the 75. That's a good clutch. It's not a centerforce, but I liked the feel and it held to my throttle happy antics.
The struggle is real!
I tried to fire it up today and had no fuel, new fuel pump was not working. Dropped the tank and installed a "new" new fuel pump and I got that all buttoned up and ...............................................................................................................................NO START!
I have constant hot at Howell fuse box when cranking and ignition on but no spark.
I tried to fire it up today and had no fuel, new fuel pump was not working. Dropped the tank and installed a "new" new fuel pump and I got that all buttoned up and ...............................................................................................................................NO START!
I have constant hot at Howell fuse box when cranking and ignition on but no spark.
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Did you check for fuel pressure after the new pump install? I know it's a pain on the L29 to get to the dist, but are the connections solid there? Power to the coil?
I do not have a gauge but I pushed in the schrader valve on the front of the engine and fuel sprayed out.
I checked the connections on the dist, coil and crank position sensor, all were plugged in firmly. The original crank sensor had a cracked housing and I replaced with a junkyard unit. I have not checked for power to coil, I will bring my good voltmeter home from work tomorrow. It is very tight quarters by the dist, any clue what color wire/ which pin to check on coil?
At the coil terminal A is a pink wire with power in run and crank. My listing has power coming from the ecm 1 fuse. Ecm 1 fuse also feeds power to the ignition control module and crank sensor.
Check for power at the ecm 1 fuse then at terminal a on the coil and terminal a at the ignition module.
If you have power at both, if be curious if you are seeing a crank signal from the crank sensor. You would need a scan tool to see it though.
Check for power at the ecm 1 fuse then at terminal a on the coil and terminal a at the ignition module.
If you have power at both, if be curious if you are seeing a crank signal from the crank sensor. You would need a scan tool to see it though.
Both coil and ignition module have 12.60 volts in on position and both drop to 10.34 while cranking.
Praise baby Jesus!!!!!
I pulled the crank sensor out of my tow truck
(something I hate doing : ie disable a running vehicle to fix one that is not running) AND IT STARTED!!
I am so fricken happy my pants are tight!!
I pulled the crank sensor out of my tow truck
(something I hate doing : ie disable a running vehicle to fix one that is not running) AND IT STARTED!!
I am so fricken happy my pants are tight!!
A thousand pardons Rob, in all the excitement I forgot to thank you.
THANK YOU!!
Your tech help is always appreciated. This was my first computer controlled engine swap and I could/would not have attempted it without knowing people like you, @Larry and all of the gang from CK5 were here to back me up.
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No pardon needed brother! I just want to see this beast on the trail with us. Anything I can do to help you do that is my pleasure. Happy to assist. Super excited to hear that it's running! Way to go dude!
I have been making steady progress and am still doing a lot of small details that needed done. This morning I cleaned, sanded and put down the first coat of bedliner/sound deadener on the cab floor.
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Looking good! When are you getting the exhaust done?
