Larry didn't use the bezel for the 241 shifter on the polar bear. Just a single boot. The bezel overlaps the corner of the 4500 boot. I don't remember what he used though.
CK5
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77 K5 Just had to do it
- Thread starter Capt Ron
- Start date
Larry didn't use the bezel for the 241 shifter on the polar bear. Just a single boot. The bezel overlaps the corner of the 4500 boot. I don't remember what he used though.
I think it's just a bezel from a 205 or 203 with a new boot.
Hmmm, I know I have both of those in my parts stash, gonna have to try them. Thanks.I think it's just a bezel from a 205 or 203 with a new boot.
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Punch that pin out and chuck the auto shift in the bush.
Interior looks great! I love the wood grain.
Interior looks great! I love the wood grain.
Punch that pin out and chuck the auto shift in the bush.
Interior looks great! I love the wood grain.
it is there to confuse millennials!
I was wondering when someone was going to comment on that.Punch that pin out and chuck the auto shift in the bush.
Interior looks great! I love the wood grain.
I used an auto column on purpose, in my complex/weird way of thinking I planned on mounting a go-pro or some type of navigational device there.
Actually that might workout good.
So I figured I should take it for a small drive around the neighborhood as a pre trip to the exhaust shop tomorrow. The new gas filler neck adapter worked great and it took fuel at full flow. Speedo was not working, maybe I did not get it plugged into the cluster good enough.
Everything else was pretty much what I expected. Needs front shocks and a steering stabilizer. No DW but just kinda feels floaty. Tires are old and and have been sitting far too long so new tires should help with overall road manners. Idle needs turned up a little.
The real bummer is the heater core is leaking! Never noticed it leaking before and the carpet was dry on disassembly. Not looking forward to changing the core out but ya gotta do what ya gotta do.
I was pretty impressed with the power the engine had and even though I did not take it on the hi-way and get it into 5th gear the transmission feels great.
Everything else was pretty much what I expected. Needs front shocks and a steering stabilizer. No DW but just kinda feels floaty. Tires are old and and have been sitting far too long so new tires should help with overall road manners. Idle needs turned up a little.
The real bummer is the heater core is leaking! Never noticed it leaking before and the carpet was dry on disassembly. Not looking forward to changing the core out but ya gotta do what ya gotta do.
I was pretty impressed with the power the engine had and even though I did not take it on the hi-way and get it into 5th gear the transmission feels great.
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Almost there dude! Sounds like a great test drive. All the things you got to do now is very manageable compared to the overall amount you've already accomplished. Good work!
So for the most part I am happy with the exhaust. It is tucked up nice and high and does not seem to be rubbing on anything. Only murphy I saw was where they misjudged a bracket location but a little longer bolt and a spacer and it will be good to go. They gave me an estimate of $625.00 plus tax. Total price after tax was $588.66.
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There is couple of places I will build heat shields like the fuel filter and the longest stretch of the frame. I drove from Golden to central Lakewood down Colfax around rush hour and could hold my hand on the fuel filter and lines no problem when I got home. I figure with slow crawling a couple of shields would be a good idea.
I like it. How's the truck on the road now? Time to tie up loose ends and get driving it to work and around town to find the little kinks and issues. Congrats dude!
Will do.
The rubber fuel lines you see are actually not regular hi pressure lines. They have -6 JIC ends and are thick wall like a hydraulic hose but are rated for Gasoline or Diesel. If I remember right they are rated to about 250 psi.
The split loom you see opens up the conversation about the Howell wiring harness. I am overall pleased with their product however as with almost all aftermarket products there were some issues. The alternator plug was not the right one for a L29 cs style alternator but that was not a big deal. I just unpinned the wire and stuck it in the correct housing I already had.
The 02 sensor plugs were males and the leads were also males. A call to Howells and they were quick to send out female to female adapters. That however left a surplus of split loom/wires right by the exhaust.
Like the engine bay I will spend a couple of days underneath rerouting, securing and protecting anything in harm's way.
Side note : if I had to do it over {and I might} I would run my fuel lines down the pass side frame rail and cross over by the transmission. @Bent77 did you end up running your fuel lines on the outside of the frame rail?
New rear spring bushing have been planned since I did the rear lift. These do need replaced but at this time they are not a safety issue and do not seem to create any loose feelings. Thanks for all of the input guys, your wisdom is appreciated.
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I am all about that. I cruised it around a bit tonight and came home and let it sit about 5 mins then did a trip to the grocery store. I will do a couple of fixes tomorrow after work and if all goes well drive it to work on Thursday. Driving it to work on the 11th has been one of my goals as that marks another trip around the sun for me.
The road manners are ok but I still gotta keep pulling out the wallet.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
You got a picture of what your talking about here?
As a 25 year heavy equipment mechanic I gotta say I am not a fan of Parker clamps. They work great on stationary equipment but on anything mobile they ALWAYS come loose. In fact this afternoon I had to remove a hyd hardline and weld up the stress cracks from those clamps coming loose. To make matters worse it seems anytime someone retrofits a concrete breaker {jack hammer} or thumb on an excavator that is what they use. If I have to use them I will only use the steel and aluminum versions and then tack weld the bolt to the cross strap.
Think they would work perfect on a truck. Never thought much of them on the heavy equipment I wrenched on
