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'78 K20 - RootBreaker from 1990 - nov 2025 8.1L not runnin

ummm... 85dB is probably going to be too loud. But for that price, and the fact you have already ordered it, I would just try to baffle the thing with several wraps of electrical tape to quiet it down

yeah I have no idea what 85db is.. and actually I need it to be annoying so I remember to turn it back on... LOL
belt driven is so much easier...

Shatap U!!!! U of all people don't take the easy route!!!! HAH...

also would you have done belt driven if you drop an 8.1L in? that is in my thoughts....


so something else to bring up... on FB I posted in a group and a guy said he used the Painless F5 kit and actually has dual speed of each fan...
but the F5 kit has warnings all over to stay clear of water.. yeah not gonna happen!!!!!

is there a way we can integrate the fans to come on in Low.. then high if needed?
 
Shatap U!!!! U of all people don't take the easy route!!!! HAH...

Troof! :deal: :doah:

also would you have done belt driven if you drop an 8.1L in? that is in my thoughts....

I did do it. I spent too much on a roller 454 and also put an sbc serpentine belt conversion on it with a 9 blade fan/clutch set up. :D
 
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I Crossed this water at least 3 times at the last dunefest . I forgot to turn off the fans on the last run.

I popped the fuse on my ignition circuit but was able to flip the DPDT switch and run both fans off the battery circuit until I could replace the fuse.
 
@mrk5 - so you are saying.. I should/could put the 195F switch listed below in the thermostat housing, but I should also add say a 185F to the block?
this way the fans are off until 185F to which the big one comes on (I have a 180F thermostat), then "IF" gets to 195F, little fan comes on?
Yes, that's how I do mine.
 
Parts are stacking. Its cold out so havent installed.
Much of it is general maintenance but upgrades..

Hit local u pull it today.
Hood release cable $7
Hydro clutch res w bracket..dont need it but grabbed it..
2x s10 blazer relay packs with brackets - $10each
1993 olds 88 fusebox...nabbed with longer wires and oem power cable!!!
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But tomorrow im planning on doing trans mounts and remove drivers gas tank. I emptied it... got the 87 tank and 87 fuel pump sendor unit to upgrade too. Will also use olds fuseblock and a relay as my ez-wiring is not using a relay...
 
Old tank out... new one prepped. Too cold as i need to rewire.

New [junkyard] hood release cable installed...

New trans mounts installed [cheap and easy]


So fuel tank has a vent. Is there supposed to be something in this? Its just a hallow piece of plastic.

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Got some progress on truck. 87 fuel tank and pump/float assembly is in. Wired up too but not to a relay yet. Working on that as well.


A lot of progress on the fusebox for relays. Took all wires and fuses out that are not needed.

Just got all fuse to power of relays done. Ground wires are next. But tons of errands today.

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More progress...

So many spare fuses and 2 relay spots. All fused battery hot to relay pin 30. Just did all ground wires to pin 85 that will get connectors bundled to a ground bolt..... next up is mount it...and run pins 86s to switches and 87s to loads....

Relay/fuse
Left block
1/2 - left/right in tank elec fuel pump
3/4 - 4x 100w bumper off-road lights
5/6 - 5x 100w bumper off-road lights.
7/8 - spare fuse/relay spots

Right block - this summer setup
1 - elec fan main power on/off
2/3 - single/dual elec fans
4/5/6/7/8 - spare fuse/relay spots

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More progress...

So many spare fuses and 2 relay spots. All fused battery hot to relay pin 30. Just did all ground wires to pin 85 that will get connectors bundled to a ground bolt..... next up is mount it...and run pins 86s to switches and 87s to loads....

Relay/fuse
Left block
1/2 - left/right in tank elec fuel pump
3/4 - 4x 100w bumper off-road lights
5/6 - 5x 100w bumper off-road lights.
7/8 - spare fuse/relay spots

Right block - this summer setup
1 - elec fan main power on/off
2/3 - single/dual elec fans
4/5/6/7/8 - spare fuse/relay spots

View attachment 256016


Silly progress update. Got all wires from pin 85s in and bout 1.5ft out. Waiting on a 6 pin delphi kit from flebay. While you can run wires permanently... im partial to taking things apart and would rather pay to be able to unplug wires vs cut them. Will use 6 pin to run from here into cabfor switches... 3 pin for bumper lights...[red/red/ground] same for rollbar... tie grounds together and 2 wires as each relay 2 lights...
Time to get to bed...kids sports tmorrow and tons of other things.
 
this is actually in the 8.1L resource thread but I want to pull it into here as I'm going to also update some pieces...


Ok adding my section to this. Was going to do my own but figured id stick it in here as it is not a high traction 5 million post thread. anyway.. I got through 3 pages to answer some of my questions. Got 13 more to go but gotta cook on the grill and family/eating time.be back later but thought I would share my notes I am taking.
correct me if I have some things wrong please..

this is jotted notes and all over the place. Tried keeping it somewhat organized and will clean it up later when things are confirmed...


8.1L questions...
Fuel
* High Pressure fuel pump - EP381 Fuel pump
* hoses - 2002 so fuel supply and return
* regulator - built into motor
* I worried about the 1987 pump assembly as it is just hose clamps but Larry said..so im good
1987 Fuel TBI fuel tank. The TBI fuel tanks are different from the older carb tanks.
now on the fuel lines. As I said I was worried and now read what I thought. Ok so my truck has a dual saddle tank setup and both lines go to the passenger side then go from solenoid up passenger side to motor.
I guess I can do what larry has listed here...
supply from motor 4-5 feet then put a filter in, click it in then take another hose and click it in and run back but
* What is the best way to connect to the tank unit? will a hose clamp hold?
* return - is it also a high pressure return or would it be just fine with a hose and hose clamps?
Fuel lines - (No pictures of these). I used supply and return fuel lines for a Workhorse RV application. These are really nice high quality steel braded lines about 4 or 5 ft. long with quick connect fittings on both ends. You will need to get creative with connecting the quick connect fittings to the lines on the frame. I used a GM fuel filter with a built in quick connect fitting (late model Silverado application) then made up something to connect the quick connect fitting on the fuel line to connect to the frame line. The Workhorse part numbers for these lines are W0000539 Supply, W0000540 Return.
Mounting Engine
* Big Block Motor Mounts - Energy Suspension engine mounts - which ones p/n? Energy Suspension 3.1116R
8) There is a small nub on the driver’s side of the engine that will need to be ground down just a tad so the engine mounts will bolt to the engine.
* Motor Cross Mount - taken from thread and chopped for me
When swapping one of these engines into 73-87, the ORD HD engine crossmember works perfectly to address oil pan clearance.
7) You will need to rework the engine cross member to clear the oil pan.
* GU32005
* Trans - SM465 - pull guide pins and will bolt to motor
* Clutch - use current sbc 350 pressure plate, clutch, etc? read need to drill holes for metric bolts for clutch? gotta read
read this but what if you already have a manual in truck - still use parts or need these?
* I ran a SM465 behind mine for the first 2 years as well but you will need an 8.1L specific flywheel and pilot bearing (12582964 is the flywheel, 12563485 flywheel bolts & 12557583 pilot bearing).
If not then need
12582964 Flywheel
12563485 Flywheel bolts
* Exhaust - will come with stock manifolds - hear hits frame so either notch frame or bbc shorty headers - which? answered in thread from Ben as well pg1
5) I don’t recommend using the 8.1L exhaust manifolds as they will hit the frame on an older truck. Any big block header or exhaust manifold (396, 402, 454, etc) will fit the 8.1L.
* Alternator - wire for charge goes where? gonna be bigger than my 60a I assume...
* Reading that low mount AC hits frame, but I do not need AC and have this style bracket - just remove and smaller belt?
Wiring
I am new to this but was told it is a stand alone harness pretty much so I am guessing just supply some basics like power, ground and go?
Will have to tie into the gauges so more to do then. I understand that it is great to get a clean howell harness but for now i need to
get it installed, up and running then in 1-2yr would pull motor to rebuild and do clean harness if it is needed...
* Where to mount pcm
The Workhorse W0000393 ECM housing is the plastic piece the ECM snaps into.
These part numbers make up everything in this picture below that the ECM is mounted to. This is actually a Workhorse ECM mounting setup with provisions for an Allison TCM on top. I just used the TCM bracket as a cover per’se.
15764028 BRACKET - PCM
W0007848 BRACKET - TCM
15003790 x2 BRACKET - TCM legs
* Is mud going to be ok to get on it - you saw my stuck
* EGR REmove and block plate - need to do
What to replace on motor before installing or after installing but immediately?
(answered to Ben's question on pg1 - yes I am reading it!!!)
1) I would replace the spark plugs, wires, and crank sensor and that’s it. These engines are simple and usually free of any oil leaks. The Early 8.1L crank sensors have a habit of failing so definitely get a new one. All crank sensors from GM parts have been superceeded to the new design. Once you put the 8.1L engine in an old truck you will not be able to replace the sensor without removing the engine so do it now. The sensors are around $65 but I don’t have the part number for it.
* Crank Position Sensor? - $50
* Plugs/Wires - ? meh run it for a bit
* Oil / Filter - no brainer
Gauges -
* currently 1960's dump truck setup with fuel/tach (5k but going to change to 7k later)
* Mechanical oil gauges
*stock fuel/tach combo
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8913/


future:
Idea is to get one and installed. Later can worry about clean harness, rebuild, leaky motor, dual tanks, etc..
side notes
Russell said - The 8.1L PCM is capable of managing dual fuel tanks. Get a tune from a cab and chassis 8.1L truck equipped with dual tanks, provide a fuel level signal from each tank and the PCM will operate your existing transfer pump to maintain the level between the two tanks. The fuel tank module you speak of is old technology. The PCM just controls a fuel pump relay for the transfer pump.
Russell again as I have a manual - I do have a dual tank cab and chassis OS but it is for a ZF6 manual transmission truck.

Larry notes
* My suggestion is to have them toggle off Torque Management, Toggle off EGR (and remove it from the engine), then add their “Hot” tune.
* Then when you get it running bump the fuel pressure up to about 67-68 psi and you’ll have a very strong runner that will start to find weaknesses elsewhere in your driveline .
* I ran a SM465 behind mine for the first 2 years as well but you will need an 8.1L specific flywheel and pilot bearing (12582964 is the flywheel, 12563485 flywheel bolts & 12557583 pilot bearing).
I have a 1991 caprice police hydraulic roller 350 in the truck now..nothing special just an L05 block. could this be an internal balanced setup which is a 1 piece rear main...?
You know, I wouldn’t be surprised if an internally balanced 1 piece rear seal 5.7L flywheel would work on an 8.1L just fine. I’ve never had one laying around to test fitment on the 8.1L. The only real difference I recall noticing on the 8.1L flywheel vs. the typical 350 flywheels was the 8.1L used large metric holes for larger bolts to fasten the pressure plate to the flywheel as well as the dowel pins to center the pressure plate. Those two things may be what make an 8.1L flywheel a specific part number. You would need to hog out the holes in the pressure plate to fit the 8.1L pressure plate bolts and the dowel pins need to be removed in order to use an older clutch anyway. It might be worth trying a 5.7L flywheel. That would save me money in a few months too as I could reuse the 5.7L flywheel in my Burb when I do the 8.1L swap in it. If you go that route, let us know!
I remember in the old days my dad used a 350 flywheel on an internally balanced 396 big block then later on an internally balanced 427. He ran that setup for decades. Maybe we'll get lucky with these modern engines too

Imma cheap-ass sum bit redneck... (actually father of 2 with sports, wife, bills, etc... ) so this is my budge 8.1L swap. I know others say you can get a motor for $1000 but expect to pay 2-3x that to install it... EFFFF DAT!!!!!
************************ Parts Purchased *****************************
2002 8.1L motor/harness/pcm/etc - facebook 8.1L group $1300 Still pulling motor and needs to ship
Motor Mounts: Energy Suspension 3.1116R - Amazon $55
ORD Big Block Engine Cross Member - ORD $223.50
2002 Silverado Diesel 2500 Accelerator Pedal with sensor - online junkyard $60
 
Sorry dude...but this is a ridiculous hodge-bodge of info here to try and follow...:confused:, but as long as you have all the info straight I guess that's all that matters.

But I did notice you had this written above: "Once you put the 8.1L engine in an old truck you will not be able to replace the crank sensor without removing the engine so do it now"...which is incorrect. I changed the crank sensor on my old motor while it was in the truck just fine. I was also able to change out the oil pressure sending unit (right next to the crank sensor) while the motor was in the truck too. Both were really not that hard to get in and out with the motor in the truck. Sure changing them while the motor is out is tons easier, but it can still be done just fine with the motor bolted in. This is just one of many misconceptions that I've read on the interwebs of people who have not actually tried to do things before, and just spill wrong information out everywhere.
 
Sorry dude...but this is a ridiculous hodge-bodge of info here to try and follow...:confused:, but as long as you have all the info straight I guess that's all that matters.

But I did notice you had this written above: "Once you put the 8.1L engine in an old truck you will not be able to replace the crank sensor without removing the engine so do it now"...which is incorrect. I changed the crank sensor on my old motor while it was in the truck just fine. I was also able to change out the oil pressure sending unit (right next to the crank sensor) while the motor was in the truck too. Both were really not that hard to get in and out with the motor in the truck. Sure changing them while the motor is out is tons easier, but it can still be done just fine with the motor bolted in. This is just one of many misconceptions that I've read on the interwebs of people who have not actually tried to do things before, and just spill wrong information out everywhere.

Thx a bunch. yes it is a mess.. it was a brain dump of what I was reading while going through the 18 pages of 8.1L resource thread.
I will keep updating that mess of a turd I posted until it is a polished turd... LOL

it is more so for me to have all info in one place that was questions/notes/answers - possible answers...
 
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