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78 sub build (sub is gone)

mnstrburbon

1/2 ton status
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Apr 6, 2007
Posts
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Location
Buena Park Ca
What i started with 2 years ago tired smog 350 bad vacuum leaks tons of extra and scary wiring sm465-205. 3 inch body lift missing 4 of the blocks in the back and really bad body bushings. 4 inch front springs rear 4 inch block 39.5 iroks 16 x 10 wheels. and way custom flame job.
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First thing was paint semi flat black and white for the top and a little them monster energy drink logos and my initials are M & M and so is the family so it has a little behind it also
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and the updates blew the motor on a mud trip day pulled the 350 out built a 454, mild cam aluminum intake holley headers new exhaust radiator clutch so on. motor pics
motor out and compartment cleaned and painted
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motor going in
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in and ready to be startd
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this was it all most all finished waiting on wires and acc had to get all new brackets got rid of the ac pump so on.
 
Took the 3 inch body lift out and installed new poly bushings and a 1 inch body lift, took out the 4 inch front springs installed 6 inch front left the back a 4 inch block. Got some new 17 x 9 wheels and 42 x 14 iroks the rims are really flat no dish so they suck the tires in alot like h1's do. I think i am going to get drw hubs and widen it out all the way around.
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What brand of wheels are those. I'm looking for some 17 in. rims but most of them are 9 in. wide. I'm interested in eagle alloys 058s that are 10 in. wide but would like to see some in person or on a truck before I decide.
Thanks, Tarey
 
they are eagle alloys part number 1869-8988-1-aa i really like them got a screamin deal on them $150 for all 4 at the 4 wheel parts parking lot sale these usually are 150 a piece they where mis tagged, i wish they had less back spacing so they would pop out more. But i figure im going to a d60 soon so ill just get a dually and it will be perfect fingers crossed, the ofset reminds me of h1's.
 
this weekend was spent working the sheet metal to fit the new rubber ill start with the back pics.
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the bottom of the reciever was 23 3/4 from the ground and the bumper bottom was 29 3/4

bumper and reciever off time to lay it all out also had alot of rust in the lower quaters so i think its a win win
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piece i cut out just a litte cancer

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and all done except for a little touch up and removing sharp edges
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Onto the left side had to remove the spare tire well so ill make a ptch later or i might just make it shallower and re instal it it is a nice littel storage area for shackles oils so forth.
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And all finished up i mesured from the main body line down 16 inches and cut it lined up with the bottom of the main suports under the tail gate nicely and made it all flat under there now..

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I should have the new bumber on in a couple days wow so much more ground clearance and less over hang.
 
The front fenders man i went through some cut off discs,sawzall blades, grinder discs this weekend but i think the end result was worth it took about 3 days to get it all done and im still not completed. still got alittle work on the pass fender lip and finish mounting the blinkers.

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i cut along the inside support where it was flat up and down cut the lip or flange off the out side fender all the way aroud the opening then bent the out side fender with chanel locks. The chanels grip the fender about 3/4 of an inch and then i bent it in a little all the way around. Then tapped it up with a sledge and made it looked uniform. By doing it this way there is no sharp edge to cut the tire and it reinforces the fender havig a 90 degree bend like factory. I am going to tack the inier fender to the newly made outer for even more support and bring it back to almost factory
strength.
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Notches for blinber socket they hit here so i just made room.if i would have mounted them one square higher i could have left the bolt in where i cut it out but ohwell i liked them lower.


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grill cut outs i grinded down the back so the two pieces would be closer to touching they still dont but are close 1/4 in or so apart.

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blinkers in still need the bolts longer and thats it they bolt to the grill and with the cut outs i can remove them from the back to change bulbe with out removing the grill.

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nice one! do you plan to mount rockslider rails below the doors? i suggest to make 'em white, to counterweight the white roof...

just my 2cts...

keep on keepin' that dream alive::::::::ben::
 
rock sliders are in the works, already cut the passanger side open and am working on where and how ill weld them in, Im planing a cage so i dont know if i want to tie them to the frame yet or wait, bumpers are in the works also. I shooting fro this weeked.

I did the white top to try and keep it a little cooler inside seems to work.. nice idea on the sliders ill try it out.
 
New shackle hanger & shackles diy shackle hanger 4 inch shackle ord 1/2 greasable bushing kit spring.
so the frame now takes a 9/16 bolt
and the spring takes a 1/2 bolt
Nice upgrade my old ones where toast shackles where bent and leaned to one side now its all straight.
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shackle angle sucks and there is little drop out but it will work till the 56 swap.


Also installed blazen offroad rear bumper i got from smokey i cut the side protection off and am going to redo it and narrow the bumper a bit its too wide and the shackle mounts are super thin.
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Thats all for now working on getting a set of 63 so i can install my diy shackle flip on the rear and remove the 4 inch blocks. Im also getting the a bomb front bumper and will see how the stock 56 work on the front height wise.
 
Picked up some brand new 64 today going to install these and the rear shakle flip in the next couple days..

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payed 100 buck a little high but they are brand new take offs late model chevy 2500 06 07 08 some where in there 4 leaves and an overload
 
i cut 3in off my frame to tuck my old bor bumper better. The sides flexed into the body a few times but survived
 
I picked them up from a local shop that lifts trucks called around and they where the only ones that had them and would sell them. customers dont want the stuff after lift im guessing.
I posted an add on craiglist but got no hits from people selling or giving any away.
Im going to try and get them on today i pulled my front d shaft to clerance the cv and it had a bad u joint so need to get that and get it back on.
Once the 64 are installed the rear d shaft wont reach so i need a way to move it around while im having it made so it will soon be front wheel drive. it hink it will move the rear axle 6 inches to the rear i am planing on not moving the front hanger. I need clearance for the tires to rear passanger doors and get rid of more overhang so this should work out good for both problems.I will also be streaching the rear wheel well openings rear ward to acomidate the new rear axle position.
the springs are 32 along the leaf to center pin so they are 64 and from straight eye to eye is 62 not mounted.
 
i cut 3in off my frame to tuck my old bor bumper better. The sides flexed into the body a few times but survived

I had to cut a couple off to just get the front bolts to line up they hit on my frame i guess its different than the later model frames. I want to get the rear hanger mounted with the 64 before i tuck or move the rear bumper any more. Im also thinking about sectioning the frame so there is no downward slope at the rear 8 or 10 inches, with the 1 inch body lift i sould be able to remove it on the rear most mounts and run only the mounts and it should end up even.

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