Your gonna want to box in the frame any to mount the bumper,I'd like to see this thing in person, where abouts in B.P. are you?
CK5
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78 sub build (sub is gone)
- Thread starter mnstrburbon
- Start date
i was thinking the same about you.. where that is?
i dont think i have seen you're truck around before i would have remembered it. Ill pm you with contact info.
The part number on these springs are 15246974 hencho in mexico
i checked bolt size today and the one side use's a standard 9/16 bolt stock for our rigs the other side seems metric it is a littel bigger than the 9/16 bolt but should not be a problem.
did not get much done today it was hot i mounted the rear plate on the tailgate with nutzerts and started to drill the rivits on the rear frame shackle hangers. I had better luck and it seemed faster to use a cut off wheel and then go back with a grinding wheel to smoth it off and then pound away. woorked really good on the front i also used a flapper disk on the front to smoth it out nice against the frame. My exhaust turn downs are right in the way of the bottom two rivits going up so i have not figured it out yet but i think its 2 parts so after i get the big part off i will worry about the last 2. will see how tomorrow goes.
i dont think i have seen you're truck around before i would have remembered it. Ill pm you with contact info.
The part number on these springs are 15246974 hencho in mexico
i checked bolt size today and the one side use's a standard 9/16 bolt stock for our rigs the other side seems metric it is a littel bigger than the 9/16 bolt but should not be a problem.
did not get much done today it was hot i mounted the rear plate on the tailgate with nutzerts and started to drill the rivits on the rear frame shackle hangers. I had better luck and it seemed faster to use a cut off wheel and then go back with a grinding wheel to smoth it off and then pound away. woorked really good on the front i also used a flapper disk on the front to smoth it out nice against the frame. My exhaust turn downs are right in the way of the bottom two rivits going up so i have not figured it out yet but i think its 2 parts so after i get the big part off i will worry about the last 2. will see how tomorrow goes.
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well been busy with family things but got crackin on her today and this is what i got done.
shackle flip preaty much installed oneside complete other side needs paint and in stall still in mock up stage trying to figure everything out as i go i always wanted to move the rear axle back. So im installing the 64" springs and not moving the front mount at this time, should drastically help with the rear overhang and departure angle.I mesured the wheel base before and after and it was 130 1/2 and now it is 135 1/2 that is from axle center to axle center. So it looks like a 5" push to the rear not bad im preaty happy. Now im mocking up the shackle flip to check shakle angle so far im using the brackets with the offset to the rear and only using the stock rear holes in the front of the bracket it looks like that might work out. also shocks are going to need to be moved have not decided yet and the gas tank is also going to get pushed to the back a couple inches i think for axle clearance.
well enough blabber here are a bunch of pics.
Also before i get bashed i am not leaving the lift block on top of the spring i am only mocking it up and the ubolts are to long so i had to use them to tighten everyhting up..
tire not bolted up or no weight on truck just trying to get a rough idea.
52 and 64 side by side
shackle flip preaty much installed oneside complete other side needs paint and in stall still in mock up stage trying to figure everything out as i go i always wanted to move the rear axle back. So im installing the 64" springs and not moving the front mount at this time, should drastically help with the rear overhang and departure angle.I mesured the wheel base before and after and it was 130 1/2 and now it is 135 1/2 that is from axle center to axle center. So it looks like a 5" push to the rear not bad im preaty happy. Now im mocking up the shackle flip to check shakle angle so far im using the brackets with the offset to the rear and only using the stock rear holes in the front of the bracket it looks like that might work out. also shocks are going to need to be moved have not decided yet and the gas tank is also going to get pushed to the back a couple inches i think for axle clearance.
well enough blabber here are a bunch of pics.
Also before i get bashed i am not leaving the lift block on top of the spring i am only mocking it up and the ubolts are to long so i had to use them to tighten everyhting up..
tire not bolted up or no weight on truck just trying to get a rough idea.
52 and 64 side by side
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hey man i had to move my flip back to where (dont know if its like it on subs) the hump is in the frame...i cut the hump out and welded the flip in..pics..btw thats too much angle once you get the weight on it trust me
here is my getto ass shocks
here is my getto ass shocks
thanks for th pics helped out
here is what i cam up with so far i loosle moved the rear hanger and have it atached with vise grips to play wiht the angle but cant decide if i want the axle back that far and if i do how i will stretch or open up the rear well.
i was thinking of stretching it before but now think it will look funny with a 4 foot wheel opening so im thinking of making flat like the jeep guys do and just cut from the top straight to the back would slao help match the front cut.
not so good shackle angle this is using the rear holes in the front holes of the flip kit anf flip kit reversed and the weight on the wheels.
after i moved the bracket back and weight on the wheels. alot better.
i was thinking of stretching it before but now think it will look funny with a 4 foot wheel opening so im thinking of making flat like the jeep guys do and just cut from the top straight to the back would slao help match the front cut.
not so good shackle angle this is using the rear holes in the front holes of the flip kit anf flip kit reversed and the weight on the wheels.
after i moved the bracket back and weight on the wheels. alot better.
I played around in paint and this is what i cam up with opions welcome.
i know jack looks scary just there to catch it if the mounts fell of the fram for mock up.
i know jack looks scary just there to catch it if the mounts fell of the fram for mock up.
thats the way my angle looked when i moved it back 6 inches
Suburban
Nice truck and work. I really like the rust solution you came up with for the fenders.
With that logo you should see if you can get any $$ for advertising Monster.
Nice truck and work. I really like the rust solution you came up with for the fenders.
With that logo you should see if you can get any $$ for advertising Monster.
well got some work done the last 2 days ground off all the rivits on the following that was tons of fun had previously ground down rivets on stock rear hangers.
2 tank crosmember
2 bump stops
1 shock tower driver side
1 pass shock bolt removed from frame
1 factory exhaust hanger
also cut of exhaust behind mufflers to rear and removed the gas tank.
Installed rear extended brake line and the bolt was frozen to the bracket 15 minute job took 3 hours.
Drilled and mounted flip brackets set up rear suspension with 20* rear shackle angle should change to about 25 or so once people are inside, cage , gear, gas tank and fuel.
Let me tell you this thig is crazy soft and flexable it has about 6" to 7" droop from ride height measured at the axle and a ton of compression just playing around with the jack and hoist. Well I still got to figuer out if the tank will relocate looks like it should dont know about the filler neck hitting supports under floor thats next on the list to do.
Here are some pics.
2 tank crosmember
2 bump stops
1 shock tower driver side
1 pass shock bolt removed from frame
1 factory exhaust hanger
also cut of exhaust behind mufflers to rear and removed the gas tank.
Installed rear extended brake line and the bolt was frozen to the bracket 15 minute job took 3 hours.
Drilled and mounted flip brackets set up rear suspension with 20* rear shackle angle should change to about 25 or so once people are inside, cage , gear, gas tank and fuel.
Let me tell you this thig is crazy soft and flexable it has about 6" to 7" droop from ride height measured at the axle and a ton of compression just playing around with the jack and hoist. Well I still got to figuer out if the tank will relocate looks like it should dont know about the filler neck hitting supports under floor thats next on the list to do.
Here are some pics.
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Things that did not work or problems that arose with this 64 swap on a suburban i searched and could not find anyone who had done it so learning as i go and trying to share.
1. Tank but i have the small tank (not the 40 gallon) looks like crosssmembers will relocate and im good or a fuel cell?
2. Exhaust flip brackets and shakles hit the pipes the way i had them routed dumped. (at the muffler looks to be cure.)
3. Parking brake cabels are to short to reach the factory brackets. If i do a disk swap i will loose them anyway unless i do caddy calipers but still cable issues?
4. Drive shaft to short won't even touch the splines my guess about 5 or 6 inches to short. Either extend front shaft of 2 piece drive line and move cross member for suport bearing or lengthen rear section. ( leaning toward rear section so if i need a spare shaft a stock will work and that shaft gets beat up way more than the intermidiate shaft. And a one piece will be to long for highway travel so the 2 piece has to stay.
5. Shocks will not work in stock location. ( going to build a tower and in board them may raise that section of floor si i can keep th ashocks straighter up and down un sure as of yet.
6. Body mods have not started but can already tell quartes have to be streached and filler neck moved or figure it out with a cell,
All i can think of for the moment.
1. Tank but i have the small tank (not the 40 gallon) looks like crosssmembers will relocate and im good or a fuel cell?
2. Exhaust flip brackets and shakles hit the pipes the way i had them routed dumped. (at the muffler looks to be cure.)
3. Parking brake cabels are to short to reach the factory brackets. If i do a disk swap i will loose them anyway unless i do caddy calipers but still cable issues?
4. Drive shaft to short won't even touch the splines my guess about 5 or 6 inches to short. Either extend front shaft of 2 piece drive line and move cross member for suport bearing or lengthen rear section. ( leaning toward rear section so if i need a spare shaft a stock will work and that shaft gets beat up way more than the intermidiate shaft. And a one piece will be to long for highway travel so the 2 piece has to stay.
5. Shocks will not work in stock location. ( going to build a tower and in board them may raise that section of floor si i can keep th ashocks straighter up and down un sure as of yet.
6. Body mods have not started but can already tell quartes have to be streached and filler neck moved or figure it out with a cell,
All i can think of for the moment.
Well made some more head way.
Got the tank in and mounted moved the crossmembers. The rear one went to the 40 gallon holes and i redrilled for the front ones bolted it up it moved about 5 inches same as rear axle. Also hooked up all the fuel filler lines and fuel lines. If i was not running such a large tire or more lift the quartes could probably be trimed to clear but thats just not going to work in my case also the fuel filler is going to need to be moved.
I also got a new d shaft made had the rear section lengthened they said 4 inches now at ride height it has 3 3/8 inch of spline showing.Had a new carrier bearing installed and all new 1350 joints spicer non greaseable and new u bolts at the t case and new straps at the diff. Figured i will carry the old ones for spares.
well here are the tank pics battery died so i will get d shaft shots later and hopefully get the brakes blead and take her for a trip around the block.
i still have to clean and paint the factory skidplate for the tank and re install it.
Got the tank in and mounted moved the crossmembers. The rear one went to the 40 gallon holes and i redrilled for the front ones bolted it up it moved about 5 inches same as rear axle. Also hooked up all the fuel filler lines and fuel lines. If i was not running such a large tire or more lift the quartes could probably be trimed to clear but thats just not going to work in my case also the fuel filler is going to need to be moved.
I also got a new d shaft made had the rear section lengthened they said 4 inches now at ride height it has 3 3/8 inch of spline showing.Had a new carrier bearing installed and all new 1350 joints spicer non greaseable and new u bolts at the t case and new straps at the diff. Figured i will carry the old ones for spares.
well here are the tank pics battery died so i will get d shaft shots later and hopefully get the brakes blead and take her for a trip around the block.
i still have to clean and paint the factory skidplate for the tank and re install it.
Here is a pic of the drop out it has first is ride height and second wheels are still barley touching 9 inches of lift at rear bumper.
So you left the front mount in the stock place, do you think a 40 gal tank would fit back there behind the rear axle with out moving the front mount
I have a 40 and I am putting in the same springs you did but I was planning on moving the front mount also
If for some reason I can't move the front mount, haven't looked yet to see, then I am going to move the springs to under the frame.
I have a 40 and I am putting in the same springs you did but I was planning on moving the front mount also
If for some reason I can't move the front mount, haven't looked yet to see, then I am going to move the springs to under the frame.
If you leave the front mount mount and move the axle back the 5 inches it will hit the tank for sure.
And the tank cant be moved back enough to clear (40 gallon) you will have to move the front spring mount bringing the axle back to the stock location. Buy doing that you will now have the front spring eye below the fram rail so it will drag on stuff and there will still be alot of rear overhang.
The main reason i wanted to do this swap and move the axle back because the tires where starting to get into the door 42" tires and the rear overhang was to big dragged going up and down hills. I could have lifted it more but dont want to go any higher than it is, actually want to lower it a couple inches. the other reson behind the swap was the 56 are going up front so i only had to buy one set of springs the 64 for $100.00 and will have a super flexy 4 inch lift actually came out to a 6 in the rear.
i would just keep the 56 in the rear if you are keeping it in the stock location do a shakle flip and in board the shocks plenty of flex and a ton less work.
And the tank cant be moved back enough to clear (40 gallon) you will have to move the front spring mount bringing the axle back to the stock location. Buy doing that you will now have the front spring eye below the fram rail so it will drag on stuff and there will still be alot of rear overhang.
The main reason i wanted to do this swap and move the axle back because the tires where starting to get into the door 42" tires and the rear overhang was to big dragged going up and down hills. I could have lifted it more but dont want to go any higher than it is, actually want to lower it a couple inches. the other reson behind the swap was the 56 are going up front so i only had to buy one set of springs the 64 for $100.00 and will have a super flexy 4 inch lift actually came out to a 6 in the rear.
i would just keep the 56 in the rear if you are keeping it in the stock location do a shakle flip and in board the shocks plenty of flex and a ton less work.
My rears are 52 's at least should be
I bought a set of new 63's so going to use them. The front mount doesn't look all that hard to move just some more rivits then some drilling
I don't like the idea of the overhang but not much choice right now may in the future do a bob but in the meantime I will have to deal with it. I will have to get under there today and do some figuring wonder if I can more the axle back a few inches and be ok
I bought a set of new 63's so going to use them. The front mount doesn't look all that hard to move just some more rivits then some drilling
I don't like the idea of the overhang but not much choice right now may in the future do a bob but in the meantime I will have to deal with it. I will have to get under there today and do some figuring wonder if I can more the axle back a few inches and be ok
that depends how much lift you have..mine had 6 and i never hit the tank
Are we talking (suburban) blazer or truck the blazer is much shorter and the specs and build would be different like twoslo4five0 said check his build if you are not working on a sub.
I did this write up for more the sub guys wanting to do the 64 swap.
I did this write up for more the sub guys wanting to do the 64 swap.
WEll got some new parts and going to try and start figuring how i am going to squeeze all this shock uder it?? Probably going to build a tunnel in the rear floor and go in board. They are 2.5 16" travel fox's Ouch on the price half of what i paid for the whole truck when i drove it home and thats just one.
also picked up 2 optima battery trays.
next to the old rear shock.
also picked up 2 optima battery trays.
next to the old rear shock.
Also picked this up about a month ago and got a custom a bomb on order from kirt.
