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78 sub build (sub is gone)

If your engine was hitting the cross member, that means your engine mounts are worn out.
 
If your engine was hitting the cross member, that means your engine mounts are worn out.
They where new when the motor went in and it barley cleared over the past 2 years the pass has settled a bit so it would hit when flexed. I have a 8 qt 4500 kodiak pan its extra deep that's the main reason it hit.Im going to try the diy mounts to get more lift.With the new cross member it clears just fine.
 
Damn the picture I really would have been interested in is clearance of crossover draglink before and after that crossmember :(
Ill see what i can do if i can hold or mock the old one in once i get the steering on. Im running 6 inch springs now but on a burb and a bb they are 4 to 5 of actual lift.
 
Yeah, my 1988 Suburban was a TH700R4/NP208, but I blew that up and swapped in an SM465/NP208 combo, that used the same one piece rear drive shaft. My 1982 crew cab K30 has a 2 piece drive shaft with a carrier bearing, and just like you said, it helps with the angle. I would like to swap a two piece set up into my Burban. I guess I would also like to swap an NP205 in place of my NP208.

Martin
I measured the crew and sub today
crew was 46" from center of u joint to center of carrier bearing
burb was 19" from same spots
So i guess that would not be an easy swap.
 
Hey mnstrburbon, Would you like some Monster decals? My buddy works for Monster Energy and he always hooks me up with stickers and other misc Monster related stuff. Most of it is the green "M" logo. Let me know if your interested. No charge. PM me and I'll ship you some goodies..... Matt
 
New M logo on front bumber added some paint and an aluminum plate that i sanded.

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Mallory hei stole well borrowed it from the bb in the jet boat.. Now i need to get one for the boat or burb by july4th Its river season.
 
The knuckle is from offroad unlimited and is for dana 44 or 10 bolts. im going outside for the install in a bit so hopefully completed pics tonight.
Here are some more of the knuckle
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Damn son i was trying to beet ya finished an hour and a half ago test drove it and put all the tools and truck away, and am waiting on photobucket to load pics and crusing ck5.
 
Well here they are all finished it TURNS know oh my god the tires are hiting the springs on both side's, I might have to adjust the stops.

2X sector shaft
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Torn down painted the C's and cleaned them up.
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drag link clerance
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Ok enough picture whoring for tonight ill get a couple ad right height and turning tommorow.
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I dont get the point to that steering. So you have two mixed matched knuckles that may very well have different length TR arms, plus your still attaching the TR from the underside?

I hope that was significantly cheaper than regular crossover.
 
I dont get the point to that steering. So you have two mixed matched knuckles that may very well have different length TR arms, plus your still attaching the TR from the underside?

I hope that was significantly cheaper than regular crossover.

$100 for the passanger knuckle used $180 new.
You can get tie rod nut on top or bottom to match the driver side mine was nut on top. The cast out for the tie rod location is the same as a factory knuckle. So price a flat top 44 plus i would need the driver knuckle (I see all 44 nut on bottom) then have it machined and tapped and buy the arm $500 about, so $100 was cheap.This way was alot cheaper and way better than push pull my tires where hitting the pitman arm on the push pull and it did not turn very sharp.

When i go 60 and cross over i am only loosing out on a $100 dollar investment wich im sure i can get back.And the box and draglink will transfer onto a 60 cross over arm set up.So i should not be out any money, and know i can go forward with the front suspension and axle move with the dodge 52" rear springs.With push pull i could not move the axle.
 
Yes it's a factory driver i had a spare so i prepped everything before tear down, ball joints and paint so i could put it together faster, you only need the driver side to install this cross over. I just left the steering arm off of the factory driver side since i don't ned it anymore.
 

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