If your engine was hitting the cross member, that means your engine mounts are worn out.
They where new when the motor went in and it barley cleared over the past 2 years the pass has settled a bit so it would hit when flexed. I have a 8 qt 4500 kodiak pan its extra deep that's the main reason it hit.Im going to try the diy mounts to get more lift.With the new cross member it clears just fine.If your engine was hitting the cross member, that means your engine mounts are worn out.
Ill see what i can do if i can hold or mock the old one in once i get the steering on. Im running 6 inch springs now but on a burb and a bb they are 4 to 5 of actual lift.Damn the picture I really would have been interested in is clearance of crossover draglink before and after that crossmember![]()
I measured the crew and sub todayYeah, my 1988 Suburban was a TH700R4/NP208, but I blew that up and swapped in an SM465/NP208 combo, that used the same one piece rear drive shaft. My 1982 crew cab K30 has a 2 piece drive shaft with a carrier bearing, and just like you said, it helps with the angle. I would like to swap a two piece set up into my Burban. I guess I would also like to swap an NP205 in place of my NP208.
Martin
I dont get the point to that steering. So you have two mixed matched knuckles that may very well have different length TR arms, plus your still attaching the TR from the underside?
I hope that was significantly cheaper than regular crossover.