78 sub build (sub is gone)

[mnstrburbon]

Here you go still working flawlessly everyone that sees them wants a set or is getting a set best money i have spent yet.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320446156994

 

[docjake]

I know it is a dorky question but are those D.O.T. approved? We use this kind over here in our Humvees and though they are a bit uglier but they are street legal.
http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wc...10001&storeId=10001&productId=64057&langId=-1

Plus I kind of like how the light splits for high/low

 

[mnstrburbon]

I wish i could afford those if so i would have gotten them IIRC $300 a piece retail on those.
They are not officially dot legal but hey have the halogen element when on high so the cops should be OK with it.

 

[1AAuto.com]

Checkin out the build on this,man thing came a long way.Nice job.

 

[mnstrburbon]

Thanks for the compliment..

A little update got a new tail gate and back window i was pulling a friend out in glamis and the rope broke taking the tail gate and window out. So i repainted the tail gate and used a texture coat on the inside like a bed liner cam out nice.

It also bent the crap out of my back bumper so ill be building a new one here shortly.

here is the video it is my friends crew cab in the vid he anchored it and buried it to take photos.

[youtube]bgSn-GYKtO4[/youtube]

 

[K5 Jess]

:d :d :d :d :d

 

[mnstrburbon]

Well i i have been doing a ton of Little stuff but i made this plate to go on the core support where the battery once lived. The plan is to run battery cables from the new battery location to these distribution blocks then power the relays winch so on off of them. This will help shorten the load wires and clean things up. It will also eliminate 15 wires or so hooked up on the battery from all the accessories that have been added.The relays are for the electric fans 2 and the other 3 (still need to add 2 relays) will be for down the road accessories and spare relays. If a relay fails on the trail simply unplug it move it over and on you go. When i get home i can drill out the rivet and replace. I used rivets so they wont rattle loose and there is not alot of room behind the plate for nuts on the back side.

I also mounted the Mohave (summit) heater under the dash i need to wire it in and run the ducting, thats what helped the start of all the rewire.

Panel pic ill get some of it installed tommorow it is made of stainless no rust.

 

[Avery4jc]

That was a good pull. So how did he bury himself there? I've seen a bunch of his movies on youtube and he doesn't seem to get stuck very often...

 

[mnstrburbon]

That was a good pull. So how did he bury himself there? I've seen a bunch of his movies on youtube and he doesn't seem to get stuck very often...

It was taken right at our camp ya hard if not impossible to get stuck.
He hooked up a rope and buried it rear wheel drive then front to take pics it was laying on the pumpkins free wheeling.

 

[mnstrburbon]

Here is a couple of the heater mounted and you can see the backing plates i made for the battery box also.

 

[mnstrburbon]

Well here are a couple of the other things i have gotten done.

I bought these led dome light's off Ebay they can be clicked on and off by pushing them. I have them wired stock to the door but if you run constant power then you can use them for under hood cargo what ever. I plan on getting 3 more 2 in the very back for cargo lights and one above the driver between the visors for a map light. I will constant power tose 3 so i can turn them on as needed.

The pics don't do them justice but they put out nice light and super white not orange like stock.

The rust is not really that bad but in the pic it sure look like it is.

turned on no flash at night ther is 2 one above the back seat and one in the cargo area.

 

[mnstrburbon]

I also mounted the vision x tantrum lights under the body and frame with some aluminum angle they work really good for what they are and there size.They are neat because they provide enough light to see obstacles but do not blind you if you look into them.I think the white would be better for lighting these do the job but lack a little since they are colored green. They are cool and set the truck apart from others at night though and that was one of the things i wanted. The cool part is they are such low draw you can park leave them on and not kill the battery for hours.They also have alot of different flash functions if you so desire.

I am going to be installing some halogen rock lights to supplement these and provide a better back up and break over lighting.I would like to do the new 4 inch LED work lights but they are out of the budget for now so 4 inch halogens are going on.

The pics do not do them justice they are brighter than they look in the pics these are at night and no flash

 

[mnstrburbon]

Got all the pieces for the Dana 60 rebuild here are a couple teaser pic of the powder coating i did myself at home on the knuckles, ballistic arms, and lower bearing caps. I had a friend tig weld guards around the lower caps so the grease Zerk's wont get ripped of by rocks and such.

Arms before PC

And after

Lower bearing cap with tube guard welded on

After PC

Knuckles after PC and with the arms loosly installed

 

[BGKYK5]

What are you using for a powder coating setup? Looks good!

Your TIG welded zerk guards make mine look like sh1t.

 

[ChickenRammit]

dude, that home brew powder coating came out awesome.

 

[RollinKaos]

Cool build . Im in

 

[mnstrburbon]

What are you using for a powder coating setup? Looks good!

Your TIG welded zerk guards make mine look like sh1t.

Thanks for the comps..
the gun is from harbor freight and the oven is a standard electric house oven 220. Prep is the number 1 factor the cleaner the better or a new a part easier just clean with solvent and coat.

Chicken rammit walked the cup on the tig welds thanks.

 

[TREA18]

cool I never even considered that, love the brotherhood.

 

[mnstrburbon]

Well got the 60 almost totally rebuilt and ready for install. New king pin bushings, lower bearing caps, lower bearings, spicer u joints, timken wheel bearings, rebuilt calipers,new pads, and all the seals through out. I still need to put the lock outs on, paint the hubs and figure out the tie rod. I think i will wait and see how the high steer clears the springs before committing to a tie rod length.

I am also going to be putting on some 52" springs when the 60 goes under it.

 

[Avery4jc]

That home brew powder-coat is coming out nicely. I'll be interested to see how it holds up.