Skip the 52's put 56's in
CK5
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78 sub build (sub is gone)
- Thread starter mnstrburbon
- Start date
I did some stuff on my quad about 5 years ago still loks good, the powderer is the same as the pros use and the process is the same also. It is amazing how much mark up there is in powder coating stuff.
56" will not work with the a bomb as the front hanger is not moved forward enough, i have mocked up both and I'm stuck with the 52". If i move the rear shackle back on the frame then i can pull off the 56" just not wanting to do that.
I am going to use Chevy 52" for the mock up and to get it going, but i want to run Dodge 52" as the center pin is 2" more offset than the Chevy. This will help move the axle forward 2" but give me adjust ability in the front hanger to fine tune the shackle angle.
Looking back the b52 brackets and a winch mount from Twisted engineering would have been a better route. It would allow me to run 56" and gives a MUCH better approach angle but what is done is done. I'm happy with the a bomb just different options out there now.
my buddy has one as well.he is still trying to get it all down but its coming along.
I built a rack out of wood to hold the oven tray's it has 3 sides and is covered in cardboard so when done spraying i shop vac up the mess. I also like to pre heat the parts a bit to remove impurities it seems it also helps make the product stick better. Again the cleaner the part the better the finish.
Well the 60 is in and so are the 52" springs.
I used 4 inch lift blazer rear 52 with the overload and bottom 2 leaves removed. I then added in 2 very thin leaves from a dever pack and it sits about where i want it too. I played with a couple different combo's before settling on this set up. I mocked up the dever 56 but the spring and rear shackle where dead on the frame. I got new brake lines made as the 26" ones where too short new ones are a tad long but ill run them with a spring for control. Still need the d shaft modded and bleed the brakes.
Fully drooped 21 inches from bottom of bump stop bracket to top of axle tube.
the leaves look twisted but its just the pic.
Ride height 55 to body line from floor through center line of axle
I used 4 inch lift blazer rear 52 with the overload and bottom 2 leaves removed. I then added in 2 very thin leaves from a dever pack and it sits about where i want it too. I played with a couple different combo's before settling on this set up. I mocked up the dever 56 but the spring and rear shackle where dead on the frame. I got new brake lines made as the 26" ones where too short new ones are a tad long but ill run them with a spring for control. Still need the d shaft modded and bleed the brakes.
Fully drooped 21 inches from bottom of bump stop bracket to top of axle tube.
the leaves look twisted but its just the pic.
Ride height 55 to body line from floor through center line of axle
RollinKaos
1/2 ton status
Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn that really put some lift into it. Looks good
It sits about 2 3/4 to 3 inches higher than before the swap. I think i have a pic of the first springs pack i tried it was 5" higher than it is know. The hood was at 6 feet tall WOW that is when i pulled the pack and messed around with the combo took 4 tries to get the current set up. I'm happy for know i hope it settles an inch or so. I asked around and it sits about the same height as others on here running 38's and 52, I'm 2 or so inches taller but also on 42's.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Awesome!
RollinKaos
1/2 ton status
What brand springs did you use? That looks huge even after swapping out springs looks cool though. How long are those rear shackles?
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6" shackles i might swap them for 7" down the raod, not sure on the spring brand ill find out i got them from a member on here. It does look big but its on 42" and a sub so there is alot of body that throws it off.
I think the vent tube is limiting the articulation 
it will go further if you do one side and then the other so plan brake lines for that, instead of just lifting the the whole front.
it will go further if you do one side and then the other so plan brake lines for that, instead of just lifting the the whole front.
Ya i need to flex it out but don't think the hoist is up to the task, i tried it when i did the rear suspension but got scared at a point. I got 40" brake lines they are super long so i hope i don't need more than that. I got the rest of the wiring pretty much finished up yesterday so I'm off to find a loading dock or something to test it on. I need to flex it out totally so i can measure for the drive line.I think the vent tube is limiting the articulation
it will go further if you do one side and then the other so plan brake lines for that, instead of just lifting the the whole front.
RollinKaos
1/2 ton status
Cool snaps some pics if you think about it. Gotta see this rig all flexed like Arnold.
Here is a few pic's of the wiring 95 percent done, just need to run the temp sender wires for the fan.
Everything has been soldered and shrink tubed took for ever to lay things out and make all the connections. I got the distribution blocks off of a 90's Chevy truck and the battery fuse from a 2000's f150. All the power and ground leads are 2 Gage and the power for the factory distribution block has been up graded to 4 Gage and a bigger block also. The panel is stainless and there are 3 open relays for spares if one fails or for additions down the road. The winch cables all so hook up on the panel at the distribution block.
before i finished the wrapping and a couple other things.
Everything has been soldered and shrink tubed took for ever to lay things out and make all the connections. I got the distribution blocks off of a 90's Chevy truck and the battery fuse from a 2000's f150. All the power and ground leads are 2 Gage and the power for the factory distribution block has been up graded to 4 Gage and a bigger block also. The panel is stainless and there are 3 open relays for spares if one fails or for additions down the road. The winch cables all so hook up on the panel at the distribution block.
before i finished the wrapping and a couple other things.
I have been going back and forth for a month now on the 60 rebuild, then install, heater, heater vents, tilt column, and battery rewire. Here is the summit MOHAVE heater installed and the defroster vent modified to accept the vent tubing from the new heater. I also got some vents from a 72 Chevy truck from classic industries i might use and the vent kit from Mohave. Still trying to decide where i want the vents to go and how many. I got the heater wired to the factory rear ac switch with low-med-high the switch that comes in the kit is a little cheap. I also made a plate to cover the whole left behind by the removal of the factory controls.
factory switch
Stock defroster vent and the modified one.
factory switch
Stock defroster vent and the modified one.
Block off plate for factory controls, i know have to figure out what to put hrere, a bank of switches or ??
When you do your front drive shaft keep in mind that if its all the way articulated on the pumkin side and under power the springs will twist and the pinion will rotate down. Happens alot when you are trying to climb. So get the longest length of spines you can get so it doesn't pull apart.
Mine does the oppisite, benifits of a HP
Mine does the oppisite, benifits of a HP
I would put switches in the block off plate.
Thanks for the input kg I'm looking g at going to a long travel front not sure on slip yet but thinking 10" or more.
I was thinking of looking for a different CB or switching to FM actually and getting rid of the am and mounting the new unit in the plate. If i go that route it frees up the space where the CB is now fro the heater vents to be in the center of the dash and down low.
Also looking into shocks i think I'm going to order FOA 18" travel 2.5 with res for the front. Shock towers will be ballistic fab or ruff stuff, C Chanel design.
I was thinking of looking for a different CB or switching to FM actually and getting rid of the am and mounting the new unit in the plate. If i go that route it frees up the space where the CB is now fro the heater vents to be in the center of the dash and down low.
Also looking into shocks i think I'm going to order FOA 18" travel 2.5 with res for the front. Shock towers will be ballistic fab or ruff stuff, C Chanel design.
