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Found 79-91 Blazer Tub and full vert windshield frame.....stretch it?
- Thread starter folkenheath
- Start date
That is what I feel, best of both worlds.
That sounds like the newer blazer tubs would be way off to try and bolt on a shortened truck frame?
Eventually I would like to build a tube frame, not sure I have the time this go round.
That is a large difference, all the way to the wheel wells pretty much, I am glad you guys are showing me the differences.
Eventually I would like to build a tube frame, not sure I have the time this go round.
That is a large difference, all the way to the wheel wells pretty much, I am glad you guys are showing me the differences.
So what you guys are saying is, if I convert one, I definitely don't want to convert a 76-80? Did they add the leg room with the shovel nose in 81 or before?
The leg room comes in '78. It is a HUGE improvement.
Martin
Martin
I believe the floor changes around ‘78.
If you’re going to run it at the dunes, you’re going to cage it right? If you put a cage in and tie it all up then being a genuine full top shouldn’t matter.
Seems like someone had a windshield frame for sale recently, maybe grab it just in case? You know you can get your money back out of that.
If you’re going to run it at the dunes, you’re going to cage it right? If you put a cage in and tie it all up then being a genuine full top shouldn’t matter.
Seems like someone had a windshield frame for sale recently, maybe grab it just in case? You know you can get your money back out of that.
Still an honest question, have you ever driven a full convertible Blazer?
I always wanted one. Thought my half tops were kind of lame. Thought DREMU was nuts for welding a cab onto his full convertible.
Then I finally got myself a full convertible.
I was very disappointed. The half top is MUCH better in my opinion. I would never go out of my way for a full convertible again (or a pre '78 for that matter, the rear floor pan sucks in the '73-'77 Blazers.
Martin
I always wanted one. Thought my half tops were kind of lame. Thought DREMU was nuts for welding a cab onto his full convertible.
Then I finally got myself a full convertible.
I was very disappointed. The half top is MUCH better in my opinion. I would never go out of my way for a full convertible again (or a pre '78 for that matter, the rear floor pan sucks in the '73-'77 Blazers.
Martin
Yes I would be caging it for safety and rigidity, so the braces don't bother me at all, in fact I was looking to see if they were easily removable.
Where is this windshield frame you speak of? I might snag it.
What did you not like about it? Other than the leg room? Wind noise? Rigidity? Leaks? Something else?
I believe the only full vert I have been in was a 68-72 model my father had when I was a teenager. I liked that thing, but I like the 80s body style even better.
He would remove the top in the summer and put it on in the winter. Had it for a couple years, went hunting in it a few times, then he sold it. I don't think I drove it myself, I think my brother did, he is two years older.
@folkenheath I couldn’t remember where i saw it at first but it was a reply in this thread, not sure if it sold or not.
ck5.com
Wanted - 73-75 Top, windshield frame and rollbar near NJ
I had at one time all aforementioned parts but decided to get rid of them. Now I need them again lol. I figured it was easier to cut the roof off than repair the mess they made for the sunroof. If you have these within driving of NJ please let me know.
ck5.com
Wind noise, sun in your eyes (and on my balding head), rigidity, crappy doors, among other things. That being said, it doesn't help that the later model rigs are just all around better.
This all coming from someone who really wanted one. Until he had one. I would just see if you could try driving a few peoples of each style before you make a choice.
Martin
This all coming from someone who really wanted one. Until he had one. I would just see if you could try driving a few peoples of each style before you make a choice.
Martin
The later ones are not easier or harder to adapt to a truck frame.
It's a project anyway you slice it.
I agree with Martin @82355 , I had a 73, then a 74, slight improvement, then a 76, lot better, then I had an 81, 85 and 89.
If I could find a 91 cheap enough I would be driving that.
They just kept getting smoother, tighter and more comfortable.
A convertible is nice from time to time for short local trips, but I wouldn't do a road trip with one or spend a day at the dunes in one.
Personal preference
I will see if I can drive a blazer before I buy one, that's always good advice.
Most of the times I am at the dunes the windows are all down the entire day and never go up. In fact, I was wondering if they made vinyl windows for the side doors that I can velcro or zip up, like they do the back, so I can eliminate the glass and mechanisms in the doors. I do like the manual vents in the cowl/footwell, and the the vent windows. In fact the cowl vents are almost always open to allow fresh air to flow through.
I am leaning toward converting a newer one now because of the leg room.
But I am not getting this to be a daily, or something nice as far as creature comforts. I don't even know if I will put wipers on it. A heater probably. It will likely be no carpet at all, with a cage, and vinyl suspension seats. Leg room does sound appealing, and also looks like it would be a lot easier to get in and out of the back seat. I will probably keep 4 speakers in it. I will probably use a truck tailgate because its lighter and I like tailgates.
Also, the suspension and steering will be custom, nothing factory, no leaf springs.
To be honest, I'd want to build a 4WD dune buggy within a blazer tub. But I want the tub to be nice and not rusty or dented.
Most of the times I am at the dunes the windows are all down the entire day and never go up. In fact, I was wondering if they made vinyl windows for the side doors that I can velcro or zip up, like they do the back, so I can eliminate the glass and mechanisms in the doors. I do like the manual vents in the cowl/footwell, and the the vent windows. In fact the cowl vents are almost always open to allow fresh air to flow through.
I am leaning toward converting a newer one now because of the leg room.
But I am not getting this to be a daily, or something nice as far as creature comforts. I don't even know if I will put wipers on it. A heater probably. It will likely be no carpet at all, with a cage, and vinyl suspension seats. Leg room does sound appealing, and also looks like it would be a lot easier to get in and out of the back seat. I will probably keep 4 speakers in it. I will probably use a truck tailgate because its lighter and I like tailgates.
Also, the suspension and steering will be custom, nothing factory, no leaf springs.
To be honest, I'd want to build a 4WD dune buggy within a blazer tub. But I want the tub to be nice and not rusty or dented.
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I should clarify above, I still plan to drive it on the road, and it will be 100% street legal with plates, headlights, tail lights, turn signals, etc. I don't plan to hack the tub up, I want to keep it looking nice.
It just won't be a daily driver and I won't drive it on the road in the winter. Spring and fall yes, and summer of course.
I still have my 4 door 2016 sierra for daily family duties and creature comforts, plan to keep that a while. The blazer will be a toy, just like the K10. It will just be a toy I can use more often. Right now I can't even pick the kids up from school in the K10 because I have 3 kids.
It just won't be a daily driver and I won't drive it on the road in the winter. Spring and fall yes, and summer of course.
I still have my 4 door 2016 sierra for daily family duties and creature comforts, plan to keep that a while. The blazer will be a toy, just like the K10. It will just be a toy I can use more often. Right now I can't even pick the kids up from school in the K10 because I have 3 kids.
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To use a K10 frame with a K5 tub will require modifying the center of the frame to eliminate the rise in the center. It would be less work to move your suspension over to the K5 frame in my opinion. Otherwise you will need to section the frame in multiple locations to make it flat behindthe drivers seat or section the body and raise the floor to accommodate the rise in the frame.
I would recommend buying the tub with the frame so you can compare them side by side and decide at that point.
On shipping, it will be cheaper to shipping a vehicle that rolls vs a bare tub that requires a forklift to move unless you do it yourself. Even cheaper for a running vehicle. I would expect quotes to be around $4-5K to move a bare tub, $1-2K for a running vehicle, and $2-3K for a non-running roller (possibly higher across the board right now with high fuel prices). Vehicles that run are put on transports with multiple vehicles that need to be loaded/ unloaded and rearranged along the route. It saves cost this way but they must run. A roller is more likely to be a direct door to door service alone or with one to two other vehicles. The bare tub is direct door to door truck freight vehicle only shippers won't touch.
I would recommend buying the tub with the frame so you can compare them side by side and decide at that point.
On shipping, it will be cheaper to shipping a vehicle that rolls vs a bare tub that requires a forklift to move unless you do it yourself. Even cheaper for a running vehicle. I would expect quotes to be around $4-5K to move a bare tub, $1-2K for a running vehicle, and $2-3K for a non-running roller (possibly higher across the board right now with high fuel prices). Vehicles that run are put on transports with multiple vehicles that need to be loaded/ unloaded and rearranged along the route. It saves cost this way but they must run. A roller is more likely to be a direct door to door service alone or with one to two other vehicles. The bare tub is direct door to door truck freight vehicle only shippers won't touch.
Thanks for the info kennyw, I'll keep that in mind, you might be right, I have to shorten the frame 11" but if it needs to be angled and bent and stuff it would be easier to weld my shock hoops and stuff in the new frame. Still contemplating just building a new frame from chromemoly tube with my bender, would be lighter and stiffer. Then I could sell my frame as a roller with the current suspension, would be easy to box it then to so it doesn't bend again.
And for those shipping costs I would just go pick it up myself but would need to organize help to get it on the trailer.
Sometimes I see truck loads of tubs, boxes, cabs, etc getting hauled up here from down south or out west, usually at swap meets. I might want to check there.
And for those shipping costs I would just go pick it up myself but would need to organize help to get it on the trailer.
Sometimes I see truck loads of tubs, boxes, cabs, etc getting hauled up here from down south or out west, usually at swap meets. I might want to check there.
Instead of gutting your doors, why not modify the hinges to just make them easily removable all together.
I would keep the windows.
Martin
I would keep the windows.
Martin
Alright, you guys convinced me. I changed the title.
The funny thing is, I never new I would learn so much about the different year blazers just for posting a wanted ad.
It's awesome everyone around here looks out for others and lets them know the info they need to make an informed decision.
I'd consider a whole blazer at the right price. Doesn't have to run, just needs to be solid and not rusty or dented up. I don't need an interior because I kind of plan to gut it and leave it bare so I can hose it out if needed. I'll probably have a dash and door panels and that's it for "interior" other than the seats.
And I might consider the removable door idea Martin, its a good idea. Occasionally I get stuck out on the dunes with a storm or something and it would be nice to have the doors on for that, and just unfold the windows. And vinyl windows would be a lot lighter than full glass and mechanisms. But a manual roll up window would be easily removable I suppose with the right hinges, and even lighter than stripped doors! But it looks more "racey" with no doors at all, and I like it look more stock. Decisions decisions.
I never thought we would plan a build in the wanted ad section. Ha ha
The funny thing is, I never new I would learn so much about the different year blazers just for posting a wanted ad.
It's awesome everyone around here looks out for others and lets them know the info they need to make an informed decision.
I'd consider a whole blazer at the right price. Doesn't have to run, just needs to be solid and not rusty or dented up. I don't need an interior because I kind of plan to gut it and leave it bare so I can hose it out if needed. I'll probably have a dash and door panels and that's it for "interior" other than the seats.
And I might consider the removable door idea Martin, its a good idea. Occasionally I get stuck out on the dunes with a storm or something and it would be nice to have the doors on for that, and just unfold the windows. And vinyl windows would be a lot lighter than full glass and mechanisms. But a manual roll up window would be easily removable I suppose with the right hinges, and even lighter than stripped doors! But it looks more "racey" with no doors at all, and I like it look more stock. Decisions decisions.
I never thought we would plan a build in the wanted ad section. Ha ha
Just dont steal the next decent ‘73-75 windshield frame from me
Are you looking for one too? I'll be sure to let you know if I find two.
I have a steel roof but I run with half doors and the soft top rolled up safari roof style in the sun. Full vert is cool, I used to run my wrangler that way. I always found that mid afternoon I was getting cooked in the sun. I wanted a bikini top on. Now I am totally happy with my steel roof and safari top with the half doors. Plenty of breeze without getting cooked.
