This thread is for the general discussion of the Item 79 Blazer Smash 2.0. Please add to the discussion here.
CK5
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Lots of parts procurement and rebuilding of critical components. The NV4500 is out and an SM 465 is in. 5:13’s and 42ooo’s the 5 gear is unusable. My motor is under the knife with a Brian Tooley stage 2 cam going in, .648” lift beehive springs, new valve stem seals, chromo pushrods, head studs, timing chain and a complete gasket set. The Dana 60 gets back from the gear shop with an ARB in it and then I can start to build it out.
Sounds like a fun project, can’t wait to see more pics.
Sweet! Going to cut the front of the core support out? I've seen a few cut to under the headlight that looked good.
I’m going to tube the front and hang the fenders and hood. Old school KC hi- light light cans fit DOT 7” lights so those are my headlights on bumperetts that will attach to the tube. The fenders will be cut up high and the turn signal will be gone. I will use some 76 headlight buckets to replace the 79 integrated turn signal buckets for looks. I’m also going to trim the pinch weld on the and hammer in the firewall for more tire clearance to keep it as low lift as I can.
Motor coming apart for its modifications. BTR stage 2 cam, beehive valve springs, ARP head studs, chromo pushrods, Melling hi vol pump, new sensors and gaskets and a Holley off road baffled oil pan with rock guard.
They get uglier before the get prettier. Cut the dash out. I left the VIN tag and the defroster duct mounts. I will make custom from there for everything. Core support is gone and getting ready for tube. Stuck the hydroboost up on the firewall and I’m going to use a wilwood clutch master next to it. I put the whole tub up an 4x6’s so I can get in between the body and frame and clean off unneeded brackets and gunk. And the block is all torn down and pressure washed and getting a new bearings.
The frame is free of brackets I’m not going to use and fuel and brakelines. I’m going to put all new ones in. Yes that front crossmember is removed as I’m going to move the steering box forward and build the winch into the front of the frame. Also picked up the seats I’m going to use. 2000 Cadillac Escalade power and heated ones. The leather is trashed so some good custom canvas covers will go on there. Wheeling is nice with head rests and arm rests.
I’m staying with a leaf suspension and im going to change the front frame horns to bring the eye of the leaf spring up 3” to increase approach angle. I’m going to move the steering box forward 2” as well. The pic is for representation of the frame change.
Getting my new fuel cell ready. Thrifted fully welded truck toolbox that I will cleanup the welding so I’m 100% sure of the seams, baffle it and weld in the top of the fuel cell but the bottom of the box. It’s going to make a shallow box but I will find stuff to fit in there. The bed in the blazer wil be cut out and this will fit into the floor between the frame rails. I will use Holley Hydramats for pickups and plumb the tank for supply return and rollover vent using a FAT system( fuel Air Trap system) if you’re curious on how I build these click the link and read on
www.holley.com
How to Build an Off-Road Fuel Cell using Holley HydraMat
This Kaiser M715 build won't have to worry about fuel delivery issue, thanks to Holley's innovative HydraMat system! Regardless of how twisted up it will get while traveling the trails, HydraMat will keep the M715's engine well-fed.
When you move the front spring hangers up will you be doing anything for the rear hangers? Only moving the front up that much will radically change your caster, certainly more than a shim can fix.
Moving the front axle forward would help the approach angle without sacrificing caster.
Moving the front axle forward would help the approach angle without sacrificing caster.
An 8 degree shim will get the job done. All the billet shims on the market are too short for a big ruff stuff perch so I do make my own larger ones. I bolt the shims to the springs but on the drivers side I weld them ( not totally) to the perch. On the passenger side I make the shim index over the casting so it just does not rely on the pin too keep it in place. I will use a 7” shackle and move the frame tube up and forward so that the spring eye is close to the frame so close that when the spring is flexed to it’s maximum length it will touch the bottom. As for the rear I’m going to inboard the leaves under the frame and put the shackle mount into the frame with another 7” or longer shackle. I’m using Fox 2.5 16” travel shocks.
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Got the new suspension into the rear. Inboarded 63” springs , frenched in spring hanger and a large Summit Machine joint for the shackle hanger. Shackle in the picture is temporary. Moved the axle back 5.75”.
