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79 Blazer Smash 2.0

79 Blazer with a few modifications
Overview Gallery Discussion
I’m up-ending my build as far as the transmission and transfer case combo. The NV4500/Atlas is out and I’m going SM465/ORD Magnum 205. I’m not going to need the overdrive and the Atlas is strong but the gear choice and strength of the Magnum is better.
 
Clean up has begun on the 205. This is going to completely come apart and get drilled and tapped on the face to accept the figure 8 Magnum mount, all the small access points for shift rails will be tapped for pipe plugs to eliminate the rubber plugs, the front output is going to changed to 32 spline, CV flange rear output is swapping out for a fixed CV flange. JB Conversions stainless shift rails and adjustable ball detente along with a Triple stick cable shifter. The Magnum box uses just 3/4 of a quart of fluid and one of my dreams is to wheel this truck on an Ultimate Adventure or Crawl across America with Crawl Magazine. In my opinion this will require a gear oil pump, filter, cooler with a fan system. It gets a little complicated with temp gauge and temp switch for the electric pump and fan. In my opinion it’s just peace of mind. The trans and t-case will get aluminum finned heat sink PTO covers to dissipate heat. Also trans, low range box and T-case will get dipsticks as well as a vent system up to a vented catch can. On the shifter will be micro switches that will turn on dash mounted indicator lights for ; Low Range box in low, Rear in low and Front in low.

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The motor build was a garage build with my neighbor who is a GM master tech. We took it apart, cleaned it. Put new bearings throughout and put it all back together. What we didn’t notice was a broken exhaust bolt in the head. I had bought the motor from a freind of mine who bought it from a freind of his that pulled it from his rock buggy. Well they tried to drill it and broke of an easy out in the bolt and that’s how I found it. Well 3 hrs later and some tog welding, wiggling, welding , wiggling, drilling, welding and drilling I was able to get the ****er out. Ahhh life is good.

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Bought an old whirlpool electric oven for 30$ and I’m using it to cure VHT paint on some hooker cast steel exhaust manifolds. I’ve used this paint exhaust systems I’ve built before and it’s better than just leaving bare steel welds. I’m interested in how this will come out with being able to control the heat and cooling cycles and the quality of the finish.
 
That next batch of cookies are going to taste funny. :rotfl:
 
Front axle assembly done, Yukon 35 spline locking hubs, new rotors and calipers, longer Dorman wheel studs Reid 5 stud knuckles with ARP 300m studs, new kingpins with Bronze bushings, custom made double shear steering arms, RCV 300M 35 spline axle shafts, 1.75 x.25 tierod with 1” heim joints, PSC 8x1.75 steering ram, ARB locker 5:13 gears, custom truss and modified u-bolt plates and Pinion/caster shims with a .25 thick Ruffstuff cover.

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DrSmash said:
Front axle assembly done, Yukon 35 spline locking hubs, new rotors and calipers, longer Dorman wheel studs Reid 5 stud knuckles with ARP 300m studs, new kingpins with Bronze bushings, custom made double shear steering arms, RCV 300M 35 spline axle shafts, 1.75 x.25 tierod with 1” heim joints, PSC 8x1.75 steering ram, ARB locker 5:13 gears, custom truss and modified u-bolt plates and Pinion/caster shims with a .25 thick Ruffstuff cover.

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Phat
 
I like this build. Straight to a finished brawler, no messing around with incremental upgrades. Lots of our build threads have less done in 50 pages!
 
Modified the Advanced Adapters bellhousing to:
1. Bolt to the Holley oil pan at the bottom
2. Make two little covers to keep out debris
3. Modernize it with ports for air cooling

Also pictured is the oil pan skid plate Holley makes for this pan and the adapter above the oil filter for the oil accumulator system.

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