pcv valve is on the list of things to get. it rattles but might still be bad its most likely original...
CK5
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pcv valve is on the list of things to get. it rattles but might still be bad its most likely original...
Tackled the valve cover gaskets today. took a look at the valve springs and rods today, pretty gunky chit inside, and figured while im in here i should check the valve lash because i had a tick coming from around cyl 6 or 8. Lots of them were out of tolerance.. is that from the lifters and cam wearing out? Either way i cracked out the book and went through checking them all at TDC of 1 and 6. Still have some slight noise now but much better than it was before. I had some sea foam crank case additive laying around so i measured up some and threw it in.. maybe itll clean up that gunk a bit.. maybe not.
Also came out to some peacocks hanging with the truck and camper van this morning..
I then tackled the plugs, wires and coil. I had changed the plugs and wires but with just a generic brand.. and i couldnt trust that wasnt helping my rough idle so replaced with all ac delco parts.. except the coil because the NGK one was 20 bucks cheaper and the total was already a little heavy for my pockets.
Either way the coil is much better than the one i had. Mine was loose in its housing.. not sure if thats okay or not but it didnt seem okay..
I fired it up everytime i changed something so make sure i could pin point the problem that occured. Fired up nice every time. Threw the vac gauge on it again and tried to dial it in some more. still just floats between 19-20-21 " so im gonna leave it alone. The fluctuation follows the rough idle though, so im thinking once i get that little hiccup in the idle fixed the needle will steady out some. It moves slowly between the 3 and mainly holds 20.
Then i tackled the front shocks.. holy chit those things were solid.. had to use my feet and the breaker bar to crack them and wrestle them out. Found some delco stamps in them.. im thinking they are slightly used at 185k km.. i compressed them and they just stuck, as expected.
Tomorrow i plan to tackle the rear shocks, and rotors. maybe the back brakes if things go smooth.
Also came out to some peacocks hanging with the truck and camper van this morning..
I then tackled the plugs, wires and coil. I had changed the plugs and wires but with just a generic brand.. and i couldnt trust that wasnt helping my rough idle so replaced with all ac delco parts.. except the coil because the NGK one was 20 bucks cheaper and the total was already a little heavy for my pockets.
Either way the coil is much better than the one i had. Mine was loose in its housing.. not sure if thats okay or not but it didnt seem okay..
I fired it up everytime i changed something so make sure i could pin point the problem that occured. Fired up nice every time. Threw the vac gauge on it again and tried to dial it in some more. still just floats between 19-20-21 " so im gonna leave it alone. The fluctuation follows the rough idle though, so im thinking once i get that little hiccup in the idle fixed the needle will steady out some. It moves slowly between the 3 and mainly holds 20.
Then i tackled the front shocks.. holy chit those things were solid.. had to use my feet and the breaker bar to crack them and wrestle them out. Found some delco stamps in them.. im thinking they are slightly used at 185k km.. i compressed them and they just stuck, as expected.
Tomorrow i plan to tackle the rear shocks, and rotors. maybe the back brakes if things go smooth.
p.s im growing a fond hate for all the smog vacuum crap thats always in my way...
Oh yea I can totally get rid of it all legally. Only reason I havent done it yet is because the vacuum advance is run through it, and I haven't looked up how to run it all without smog, although I'm sure my Clinton's manual has diagrams of the vacuum lines for a non smog set up that I could just copy. It's definitely on the list though .
Got the rotors, and rear shocks on today. What a difference having no more shake when i brake at 90 km on the highway, and the shocks are a huge difference in the ride for sure.
Also adjusted my gear indicator so it actually lines up... Oh how the small things in life.
Even with the headaches of these squares , this is still the only new vehicle I ever want to drive on a daily basis.
Also adjusted my gear indicator so it actually lines up... Oh how the small things in life.
Even with the headaches of these squares , this is still the only new vehicle I ever want to drive on a daily basis.
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Next things to address will be rear diff fluid. Covers leaking and cruddy.
Rear brake pad inspection / change if need be.../ Change anyway.
Paint front bumper and wheels.
Fix sagging drivers door.
Drop spindles/coils/leafs.
.
.
.
Fix rust
6.0L LS swap.
Rear brake pad inspection / change if need be.../ Change anyway.
Paint front bumper and wheels.
Fix sagging drivers door.
Drop spindles/coils/leafs.
.
.
.
Fix rust
6.0L LS swap.
Carb fowled some plugs on me, then left me pulling plugs and what not on the side of a busy highway out of town, and wont really run right anymore ... said screw it, and decided to stop messing with that old carb that's been epoxied everywhere, and all the caps hacked out by the p.o, and just bought a Edelbrock 1906 carb. This carb is the last real issue before it's a solid daily driver and I need to daily it asap and give my gf's car back 
Need to pick up an adapter plate, and another inline filter because the football one I was mistakenly sold is basically a floatation device
the carb also has a nic in the secondary bore so I'm gonna swap it for another one..
Then I can start to plan the smog delete and carb instal this weekend.
There's a port at the rear for the brake booster so I'll just leave my pcv line alone and use that for the swap, came with a screw in plug for the meantime, and the vacuum advance off the front ports, with no TVS switch in line with the vaccum advance, I'm not sure if i need the constant port, or the timed port on the carb, but im sure the internet will let me know with some research. Going to buy an assortment of caps, and just cap stuff off. Once I know what's what and if I need to keep anything, Ill remove it all.
Need to pick up an adapter plate, and another inline filter because the football one I was mistakenly sold is basically a floatation device
the carb also has a nic in the secondary bore so I'm gonna swap it for another one..Then I can start to plan the smog delete and carb instal this weekend.
There's a port at the rear for the brake booster so I'll just leave my pcv line alone and use that for the swap, came with a screw in plug for the meantime, and the vacuum advance off the front ports, with no TVS switch in line with the vaccum advance, I'm not sure if i need the constant port, or the timed port on the carb, but im sure the internet will let me know with some research. Going to buy an assortment of caps, and just cap stuff off. Once I know what's what and if I need to keep anything, Ill remove it all.
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I always advocate for connecting vacuum advance to manifold vacuum, NOT ported vacuum.
I got the adapter plate needed for the square bore carb, to spread bore intake thats on there currently. Picked up a th350 auto trans kickdown cable end from edelbrock.. nowhere to install it though that i can see, just a spot for the throttle return spring, so im on the hunt for the backet im sure i need. Not having a kickdown cable wont be the end of the world temporarily though but i would like to have it back on, and attached.. Im hoping to just re drill my throttle cable bracket from the back of the qjet, and make it fit onto the studs for this new carb, that way i dont have to change that whole set up.
Other then these last few things to sort out, i think i have all the parts needed for the swap, minus whatever kickdown ad-on ill need.
Thank you, i will definitely do so, once less thing to second guess.
Other then these last few things to sort out, i think i have all the parts needed for the swap, minus whatever kickdown ad-on ill need.
Thank you, i will definitely do so, once less thing to second guess.
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oh and i thinnk my egr valve will need to come off to accomdodate the carb as well, so a block off plate is in order...
wishing i could just swap a different intake on it while i was at it, but thats just the way she goes.
wishing i could just swap a different intake on it while i was at it, but thats just the way she goes.
I managed to start the junk removal today.
Kinda decided against the slow approach of vacuum removal, went straight towards the " rip this crap out" approach.
Plugs got fouled again the other day, this time not lean, but over rich.. when I took off the carb there was fuel everywhere and also the intake was all wet, didn't even inspect. Just put it in the for now junk pile.
Got the carb mounted for now, still need to try to either modify this throttle cable bracket, or make another one work. I didn't anticipate needing a egr block off so I'm just going to make one for now, I got some copper rtv and have some flat scrap steel that should work for now
. I need to cut my fuel line and plumb it in also, tie in power and ground for the choke, and try to fire it up. I left the vent line to the canister until I switch fuel pump to a 2 line one.
Kinda decided against the slow approach of vacuum removal, went straight towards the " rip this crap out" approach.
Plugs got fouled again the other day, this time not lean, but over rich.. when I took off the carb there was fuel everywhere and also the intake was all wet, didn't even inspect. Just put it in the for now junk pile.
Got the carb mounted for now, still need to try to either modify this throttle cable bracket, or make another one work. I didn't anticipate needing a egr block off so I'm just going to make one for now, I got some copper rtv and have some flat scrap steel that should work for now
. I need to cut my fuel line and plumb it in also, tie in power and ground for the choke, and try to fire it up. I left the vent line to the canister until I switch fuel pump to a 2 line one.
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Got some more work done on the carb swap today. Just waiting for the rtv to cure on the block off plate I made, tomorrow will be the first fire up and tune. I still have to run 12 volt to the choke and ground it, and that's about it.
Figured out the trans kick down cable but haven't hooked it up yet so that's also on the list.
Figured out the trans kick down cable but haven't hooked it up yet so that's also on the list.
Does the PCV air tube still line up with the air filter housing?
Are you still going to run the hot air choke pipe thingy?
Are you still going to run the hot air choke pipe thingy?
The pcv air tube thing still lines up with my air cleaner. It's pulled up the height of the spacer ,out of the valve cover, but its still snug in there. I did have to take the hammer to my air cleaner and dent it so the banjo bolt fuel fitting had space to clear. My air cleaner is in rough shape, and I don't know if they sell replacement steel wool or whatever's in there but it's hella gunky.. In need of a good scuffing and paint. There's nowhere on the carb to run the hot air choke pipe thingy to. So no I'm going to leave both undone, which I heard was okay?. My heat stove still works and the tube still fits in so that's good.
I basically took all that stuff off because there was nowhere to hook any of it up. I left the one vacuum switch in the water neck and the other switch that's in the front of the manifold. Hopefully they are fine disconnected, the local auto parts store didn't have vacuum caps so I'll manage with something else in the meantime if need be.
If you can keep the stove pipe functional then it may help warm ups on cold and humid days.
Stovepipe is functional and hooked up. Luckily the coldest it gets around here is 40.
If I got creative I could most likely run that heat tube into the rear port of the carb. Not sure if it'd be worth the trouble.
I also just realized my stove pipe is hooked up but the flap won't close without vacuum from the carb if I remember correctly. It's tied into the manifd vacuum for the vacuum secondaries, and is no longer there since I have mechanical secondaries on this carb. hmm some things to work on for sure.
I thought the flapper worked off of a temperature controlled vacuum switch in the thermostat housing? As in run vacuum from carb to switch, then to the flapper valve so that the switch is closed under a certain coolant temp and closes the flapper valve. Then as the coolant temp comes up the switch opens as the flapper swings open.
I remember my 64 C10 in high school had a flapper valve in the exhaust, a little piece between the manifold and pipe. It had the thermo coil like a choke. Damn thing got installed the wrong way and was forced closed. Took me over a year to figure out the cause of my engine overhearing.
