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79' GMC C15 - Spruce Caboose

79 GMC 1500
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centexk5 said:
I did an experiment with a catch can on my 14 Silverado. It was a few ounces at best between changes and that truck would go through a couple of quarts. They definitely aren’t as critical as the internet would have you believe.
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I hadnt seen much push for them on the chevys but mainly on the subarus, but they are an inline PCV situation and have 3 ports i beleive. I figured with the c10, any oil thats not re entering the intake manifold and mixing with fresh Air/Fuel must be good...? did you use one with a baffle, or just a vented canister? Maybe ill just run the hose down the back of the engine and dump it on the road like its 1955:whistle:, i just dont want it in my intake:dunno:
 
Go on gm-trucks.com and search catch can. Probably find some of my old posts laughing about them.

Mine wasn’t vented and used steel wool as a medium to catch the oil. Cost $20 on Amazon and functioned just as well as the $300 ones people buy. I need to quit being lazy and start making them from empty beer cans because that’s essentially what they are. An aluminum can with a media or baffles to catch the oil vapors with an in and an out port and a drain valve. If you want a vent I’ll glue a filter to the mouth of the can.
 
I have a catch can on my 6.2L Silverado and it works well. On average it collects maybe a few oz of oil in between oil changes. There's still a small amount of oil in the intake but far better than it would be. Are they necessary? Probably not, do they help? Probably
 
Huge Congrats!

Man he was just born and he already has paint on the walls, crazy kids, gotta love 'em! ;)
 
Thanks everyone. It’s been an adventure but it’s been great overall. Wife’s healthy and so is baby so couldn’t ask for much more… except all the speed parts that this little guy is going to eat
 
Family safety parts.

Just because you have a kid doesn't mean your toys have to stop. I use my kids as leverage and reasons for me to buy my toys. That's how I got my first blazer and now my fourwheelers haha.
 
oh for sure ,the projects won’t end but they will become focused on him i imagine. I should start hoarding the plywood to build a mini ramp now, or I’ll never be able to afford it..

Gave the truck a good wipe down after it being outside and ready now to start tackling some chit list items! Had a few minutes to myself and ended up pulling the pump… or at least started. Hopefully the end play issue is an easy one to figure out.

going to work on moving motor back to the next holes on the engine mounting plates and fixing / adjusting the aftermath of that..


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Contemplating pulling the front clip, and aligning these body panels properly now that im not tunnel visioned on the motor swap and everything else i was doing at the time. I figure I hopefully wont have the truck torn down this far for quite some time again. I can get the doors to line up with the front fender fine but its left a gap at the top, so the door obviously has to go in towards the jam. IIRC to line everything up yuou should start with the doors and then make everything match moving towards to grill? . Even if i cant get the doors perfect im sure ill be able to get them much better with access to all the mounting bolts , and without the door going on and off 178 times.. Maybe even paint them now that i have a compressor that should spray decent for what im doing but ill worry about that when the transmission works and the body panels are lined up good.
 
Thinking i will move the engine back with the current transmission, take note of all the things to change...

trans cross member, main harness, and strain releif location coming through firewall ect... then pull the motor and put it on the stand and give it a once over before putting it back in.... and maybe flip my front cover gasket around..:whistle:

I want to pay attention to the cam bearings and the bottom end. I dont want to rush this and then break down who knows where, with an infant and a 23 ft trailer.. Speed parts are pushed aside and reliability parts shall flow..
 
Always start with the "fixed" areas. The door opening on the cab is fixed, so get the doors perfect to the cab, then fit your fenders to the door edge...I usually get the door fit with no striker and when all the gaps are good, then bolt up the striker loosely and get it dialed in.

Then fenders and hood. If you currently have good gaps between hood and fenders just make a note of what shims are installed and go back to that as a start point after your doors are dialed.
 
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