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'79 K10 Step Side Rusty Rex

79K10 Stepside
I’ve been waiting for another hydraulic line from summit racing for my clutch. So I removed my old fuel tank. And started to redesign my bed layout. I only use this truck for wheeling and fun. So looks aren’t the best, but I like it.

I painted the inside of the bed with some black. I’m going to paint the truck brown with flat camo brown this spring too. The patina look is cool. But it’s needs help slowing down the rust.

That tank fits halfway under the tool box. I’ll leave the fuel fill, pump, and gauge area exposed for super easy access for service and fueling.

Also my spare tire will lay flat again on the floor. And two Jerry can holders will be in there also. Definitely won’t be a bed used for truck stuff. Just wheeling and shooting for fun. I know the wood looks like hell. I’m mounting a big piece of aluminum under the fuel tank and it will be isolated in rubber strips inside the straps.

That old bed would have to come off and the floor would be redone in a heavy expanded steel or something. This truck is super beat up and my plans are to wheel it. So fancy wood and metal strip floors are not on my radar.

Those 2” box tube pieces in the bed are leftovers from my versatube carports. I welded that galvanized outside btw, gotta love those green fumes.

Also made my mudflaps quick remove with pins. This truck needs and will get some spray paint loving this spring for sure. But nothing fancy. It’s no beauty queen.

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Just rub your truck down with linseed oil once in a while. Keep that sweet patina look going. There's wipe on clear coat kits also for the patina look.
 
Just rub your truck down with linseed oil once in a while. Keep that sweet patina look going. There's wipe on clear coat kits also for the patina look.
I have a quart of that vice grip garage shine juice here. I’m undecided. This thing is super beat up all around. Even if I painted it. It will just still look beat up.
 
I’m a fan of used/patina. A nice paint job is great but then you don’t want to use it.

If you really want paint clean up the rust and replace the rot and then spray it with Rustoleum.
 
I’m a fan of used/patina. A nice paint job is great but then you don’t want to use it.

If you really want paint clean up the rust and replace the rot and then spray it with Rustoleum.
Plan was to use actual military flat brown and have no fears when wheeling. It’s not for everybody. I may wipe it with the shine juice.

My hood is agricultural red oxide primer. Ha. And probably looks like shit to the purists. It’s funny that these squarebody trucks have earned this high praise. When I got into these 20 years ago it’s cause they were cheap and unwanted. This truck is really far from stock or collectible.

It runs and drives good though. I’m sure it brings the cringe to some of the silent people here who even take the time to check this thread because it’s a “step side” and I beat on it and drill 1000 holes in it and cut it up. But it’s makes me happy.
 
Super happy with my progress today. The fuel tank is most of the way in. This tank is pump inside, and baffled for EFI made in USA from summit. So is the fuel pump. I installed a check valve on the supply line as well. And mounted my Jerry can holders.

On to the pictures.


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I appreciate the replies for keeping the patina. I wonder if this shine juice is a dust magnet? Or how long it lasts? I like to wash this thing all the time in the summer and worry it may wear off fast. Or leave it all oily if I wanna paint it in the future.

I’ve had two other squarebody trucks and just painted them desert sand with army paint. And it worked well. They were ugly yes. But easy to touch up. And impossible to scratch really.

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Is that like a clear coat or just a polish/wax?
It’s just a wipe on oil like solution that makes it shine and stops the rusting. He uses it all the time on his show. His show is vice grip garage on YouTube.

It does wear off in time I suppose. I’m curious to just give it a try honestly. It’s definitely less work than painting it.

 
Plan was to use actual military flat brown and have no fears when wheeling. It’s not for everybody. I may wipe it with the shine juice.

My hood is agricultural red oxide primer. Ha. And probably looks like shit to the purists. It’s funny that these squarebody trucks have earned this high praise. When I got into these 20 years ago it’s cause they were cheap and unwanted. This truck is really far from stock or collectible.

It runs and drives good though. I’m sure it brings the cringe to some of the silent people here who even take the time to check this thread because it’s a “step side” and I beat on it and drill 1000 holes in it and cut it up. But it’s makes me happy.
Eh. It’s your truck. Do with it what you want.

If it was a pristine low mileage, all original survivor then that might raise a few eyebrows when you started cutting but really, it’s your truck.

I’m amazed at the prices on these things. They aren’t $1500 any more.
 
I tried the shine juice stuff, it works but it doesn’t last months….well it might if you park in a garage….out in the driveway it lasted about 3 weeks before it started streaking. It doesn’t attract dust though and it does seal what’s there. I would think it could make painting in the future tricky.
 
I'd just sand it down and paint it, the poser bought not built crowd with the fake patina ruined it for me. All my squares were beat up but something about not being a color bugged me.

To each there own tho

Agreed. Everyone loves fake patina not real aged paint.
 
My new fuel tank has a pin hole in one of the welds and is barely seeping fuel. Summit is sending a new tank out tomorrow and I’ll send this back, disappointing. But the tank fits and works great. Not happy about the leak. But whatever at this point.

Again, I’m only having these issues because I have a hodge podge engine built by me only. And I used a long snout at the rear crank in an aluminum block. It runs great and has great oil pressure and seems good it’s smooth and quiet and the summit truck cam is awesome. If I had a regular short crank I could have used a normal flywheel and clutch and throw out bearing. Honestly oh well. I have a rad steel flywheel and shit seems ok.

Even with the better 45 degree -3an hoses, that 99-04 or whatever style clutch won’t work. It just barely and I mean barely touches these weird ass anti chatter or some crap springs it has and made noise. So, I pulled the transmission, again! And put my LUK 12” HD trusty standard GM clutch back in and was able to set my end play because my throw out bearing is rad (so far). It feels great, it drives great. And believe it or not this truck rips for what it is. The transmission was worth it. With 5.13’s and 40’s I’m at 2500rpm at 75 and you have to barely touch the gas. It will climb small hills in 5th. Brakes feel great too. Rear discs from lugnut 4x4 are rad.

The ORD magnum and parking brake are awesome. I’m just stoked.

Mandatory pics or it didn’t happen below.
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I’m going to harbor freight today for a new floor jack. And transmission floor jack. That last pull of the transmission with my ghetto home made weld on adapter was its final hoorah. It was leaking down and creaking something fierce when I was under there trying to line it up. Try nice feeling with that transmission, magnum, and t-case up on it. They were super cheap and easy to get. So it would Have been no big deal if it snapped.

When I hit the highway I forgot my hubs were locked and blasted to 75 with no vibrations. That Tom woods 1350 front driveline is cherry. I pulled over and and unlocked as soon as I remembered but was happy about the fact I could go that fast with the front end in. Wouldn’t do it regularly though.
 

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