Is this just a trick of the lighting or is this bend collapsed a little?
CK5
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'79 K5 Build for the PNW...(Pic Heavy)
- Thread starter dirtygoat
- Start date
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
The whole thing so far used 3 sticks of 2", 1 stick of 1 1/2" and 4 sticks of 1"... With some 2" leftover to build the rear bumper and some 1" to finish up the lower part of the bed rail cage...
2" weights 77 lbs. per stick...
1 1/2" weights 56 lbs. per stick...
And 1" weights 35 lbs. per stick...
I'd say I'm just over 400 lbs right now installed on the truck...
I'm only using the skins for the bedsides... The top and tailgate will never go back on... And I have a pile of metal that was cut out from the back of the K5...
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
pennsylvaniaboy
1/2 ton status
OK, I started working on the front diff cover...
Gonna mount the single ended ram on it and run a huge tie rod above the springs and behind the axle...
If I don't like ti I'll build a mount and two small tie rods to run the double ended ram...
Be careful. i did the same thing with the same kit. But beware this will cause an increased expense in gear oil if you change it several time.....mine holds over 2 gallons....
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
Be careful. i did the same thing with the same kit. But beware this will cause an increased expense in gear oil if you change it several time.....mine holds over 2 gallons....
Yeah, that crossed my mind... Guess I won't be using the purple stuff...
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
So far, not including the fiberglass top, I've hauled off over 1000 lbs of K5 to the scrap yard...
Anyone know how much a full top weighs???
Anyone know how much a full top weighs???
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
Wow, that much???
Well, I've gotten rid of the tailgate w/glass, both doors, the entire bed except the floor, all the interior and the rest of the body other than some skins...
I'm wondering what this thing will weigh when I'm done...
Well, I've gotten rid of the tailgate w/glass, both doors, the entire bed except the floor, all the interior and the rest of the body other than some skins...
I'm wondering what this thing will weigh when I'm done...
A hardtop with the one piece side windows weighs right at 190 lbs. I took the time to weigh the hardtop off my 81 Jimmy many years ago...
Rene
mr250twostroke
1/2 ton status
Let's try it with the image on photobucket.
He's been smashing his coors light cans there... those things are strong
.
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
Let's try it with the image on photobucket.
The light is helping in making that look that bad...
It looks about the same as the other c pillar...
With the pipe kinker it will start to flatten out the bigger stuff, I am adding gussets to both of those areas...
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
Here's a better pic...
I was thinking Gen I - I'd apologize but since it really doesn't make a difference because it's gone, I won't. BTW, excellent work with the Harbor Freight tubing bender, I cannot get mine to do anything but make scrap metal.
desertrat67
Hawk Driver
That isn't too bad. I didn't realise how much you had removed from the truck.
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
BTW, excellent work with the Harbor Freight tubing bender, I cannot get mine to do anything but make scrap metal.
Thanks...
It's been a long time, but I read some tech on my bender somewhere...
Some guys grind the top inside part of the dies and it doesn't bind as much...
Also there's guys that weld flat stock to the rollers, not sure what that would achieve...
But, the easiest thing you can do to help is use some cooking spray on the die and rollers... I read it somewhere and figured it was worth a try and it helped...
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
I was surprised when I took down all the scrap that I cut out...
The bedsides with the b/c pillars and wheel wells still on were pretty heavy... Now with just the outside skin cut down to almost nothing there's no weight there at all...
And everyone who's had their doors or tailgate off knows how much that crap weighs...
There's a lot of hidden weight with the layers of sheet metal that GM used to make everything structural...
Here's a better pic...
Ok, it was just the light. That doesn't look too bad. Especially considering the multi-thousand dollar difference in bender costs. Where did you use sched 40 vs. 80? Which bends better?
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
80 bends a lot better...
I used 40 on everything except the front and back bumpers...
The main cage is 2" sch40, I still have a bunch of gussets that I'm putting in...
Most will be tab gussets, but I'm thinking about putting sheet metal on the entire top... I have a buddy up here that did it to his Scout that's caged similar and it sheared everything up... He also bumped a dead tree and it came falling down on him, about 12" in dia and didn't do any damage... But, the biggest thing was his young boys in the back were safe...
Just an fyi, there are a lot of rigs up here that are built out of shc40 and sch80... For some reason years ago people started flaming pipe for use in our types of rigs... The true facts are out there if you look...
I used 40 on everything except the front and back bumpers...
The main cage is 2" sch40, I still have a bunch of gussets that I'm putting in...
Most will be tab gussets, but I'm thinking about putting sheet metal on the entire top... I have a buddy up here that did it to his Scout that's caged similar and it sheared everything up... He also bumped a dead tree and it came falling down on him, about 12" in dia and didn't do any damage... But, the biggest thing was his young boys in the back were safe...
Just an fyi, there are a lot of rigs up here that are built out of shc40 and sch80... For some reason years ago people started flaming pipe for use in our types of rigs... The true facts are out there if you look...
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I think the biggest prob is all the different grades of pipe. Too much generalizing..."pipe is for poop", pipe is brittle etc etc. Yes, there are grades of pipe that are brittle and are made for poop. There are also many grades of pipe using the very same steel HREW and DOM are made of...the only difference that is significant is the pipe's wall thickness is based on a "schedule" (40,80,120) that varies by inner diameter.
Pipe is identified by it's inner diameter*, round tubing is identified by it's outer diameter.
* under 12", larger than 12" pipe it's measured the same as tubing, by it's outer diameter.
My only issue with pipe is that it is heavier than required for the intended purpose. It is 1/3 the price around here though.
Rene
Pipe is identified by it's inner diameter*, round tubing is identified by it's outer diameter.
* under 12", larger than 12" pipe it's measured the same as tubing, by it's outer diameter.
My only issue with pipe is that it is heavier than required for the intended purpose. It is 1/3 the price around here though.
Rene
