Keep in mind exhaust fumes. If you have rear exit exhaust, it will be and issue not having a rear window.
CK5
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79 K5 H-Bomb build
- Thread starter brokenparts
- Start date
#K5problems
#Shuddup
Softtoppers like he and I have do have rear windows. There would literally be no difference as far as fumes go running a truck tailgate
My point was that he doesn't need a rear glass window in the tailgate since he has a clear plastic window in the soft top
brokenparts
1/2 ton status
Finally got my body mounts ordered from LMC. Their shipping prices are a joke. I'll be giving my business to brothers trucks whenever possible at this point.
Softtoppers like he and I have do have rear windows. There would literally be no difference as far as fumes go running a truck tailgate
My point was that he doesn't need a rear glass window in the tailgate since he has a clear plastic window in the soft top
Makes sense. I've never owned a soft top, nor have a really studied them. I'm all for the tailgate upgrade. I'm in need of it. I just make sure people are aware of the fumes. Had a bad deal with a friend along time ago with exhaust fumes.
brokenparts
1/2 ton status
Softtoppers like he and I have do have rear windows. There would literally be no difference as far as fumes go running a truck tailgate
My point was that he doesn't need a rear glass window in the tailgate since he has a clear plastic window in the soft top
Yup. Probably time to pull that glass and guts. I don't see the hard top ever going back on.
Yeah that's probably the better option for you since yours is so nice. By the way, the truck tailgates are half the width of the blazer gates and have different hinging mechanisms (steel hinges instead of cables). The width difference is all on the inside, outside stays the same. Just a little more info for you
brokenparts
1/2 ton status
edit. I am an idiot.
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What size were those bolts? 1/4 or 5/16?
brokenparts
1/2 ton status
1/4... I think
brokenparts
1/2 ton status
Too tight? I could have sworn they are suppose to be 20? I did it in steps starting @ 5ft/lbs then 10 then 15 to 20 (evenly). Took forever.
brokenparts
1/2 ton status
Hmmm, just looked at a chart... 12ft/lbs for a 1/4 bolt? Doesn't seem like enough but Maybe I'm the idiot After all.
1/4-20 is usually 10ish-12 maybe ft/lbs depending on lubrication
brokenparts
1/2 ton status
Doh, I did use anti-seize but looks like this is my fault.
Probably need to start all over with the wheels and tighten to the proper spec
Probably need to start all over with the wheels and tighten to the proper spec
brokenparts
1/2 ton status
My bad... those were 5/16ths. They should have done fine with 20ft/lbs. I guess I'm not an idiot.
brokenparts
1/2 ton status
Yep, that's them, they are sold individually so total cost is $104 + shipping. I may have just cheated my WFO bought ARP studs out a 1/4" or so to make them work with the spacers.
@truck-oholic I think I've decided to go this route.. I was looking at the steering and the drag link seems to be an issue with the tie rod (pitman arm puts the drag link in conflict with the tie rod). Now I can't decide on using a bent draglink or a straight... how is your clearance on this? I am also thinking that running a high clearance engine crossmember from ORD wouldnt be a bad idea.
This is a very complicated question. Are you talking about running the exact same setup as me i.e. reverse tie rod and the 1" ballistic spacer or are you not needing the 1" spacer any more? To give you the complete picture you need to know that my axle is moved forward like 2-2.5". I also have a 5.3 motor that is raised 1.25" and adapted with DIY4X's plates and comp motor mounts. That being said, the 1" spacer and the 1.25" drivetrain lift essentially cancel each other out and create a stock-like scenario for clearance given the same forward axle location. If you weren't going to use the 1" spacer you would actually have more room than me if you were running the same engine and axle location.
The 1.25" drivetrain lift was an unanticipated necessary modification in order to run the small block ORD high clearance crossmember. ORD actually recommends you use the big block crossmember when doing an LS swap but that was never communicated to me before purchasing and when I bought it I was considering keeping the factory 400 small block anyway. Even with the big block crossmember, you still might have to do some grinding or spacers for the crossmember to clear the stock 5.3 truck pan.
With regard to tie rod to oil pan clearance, the 5.3 truck pan is sloped toward the sump and then the front bottom corner of the sump is also angled. Even still, I was somewhat concerned about tie rod to oil pan clearance under full bump so I set my bump stops to start making contact at 4" uptravel. I have a new high clearance oil pan that I've armored to put in place of the stock truck pan and that will give me even more room. It has a much smaller sump, about 2" shorter front to back and it's also 2" shorter top to bottom so it will be tucked up nicely.
The drag link has plenty of room. I am running on top of the pitman arm instead of below. The only possible interference that might exist is actually the DIY4X spring plate on the passenger side. Due to the caster shims, leaf pack thickness w/ EZ inch, & tallness of the spring plate, the drag link may wind up rubbing that front edge a little under full passenger stuff and lock but that front edge can easily be trimmed back for clearance.
At this point it should be apparent that my front end setup is pretty much tailor-made for this build so there are a lot of unique factors coming into play. Best I can do for you is give you the info and let you make an educated guess of how it might work on your truck.
brokenparts
1/2 ton status
Wow, thanks for that response... that was above and beyond.
I did a little shop clean up the last couple days. I was tired of tripping on metal so I built myself a little rack. I've been meaning to do it for awhile.
Yes...I'm a metal hoarder...
I did a little shop clean up the last couple days. I was tired of tripping on metal so I built myself a little rack. I've been meaning to do it for awhile.
Yes...I'm a metal hoarder...
