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80's short box, "S.E.R.E." Box permanently attached to the cab.

Overview Gallery Discussion
yeah and I forgot a few things as well....and now I don't remember them either!
Headed to the drags in Charlotte this weekend, I'll give you a call from the parking lot!
 
cybrfire said:
That's good to hear. Alot of folks recommending a 4.56.

How much does your rig weigh?
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~6500 relatively empty, with tools, spare tires, etc.

Mine loves towing at 70 in 5th, if you let it drop to 60 or so it has no problem with power but it starts to heat up. With mine, I wouldn't consider deeper than 4.10, but it's turned up pretty good.
 
38377k5 said:
~6500 relatively empty, with tools, spare tires, etc.

Mine loves towing at 70 in 5th, if you let it drop to 60 or so it has no problem with power but it starts to heat up. With mine, I wouldn't consider deeper than 4.10, but it's turned up pretty good.
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Chris,

For posterity sake, would you post up all the particulars on your rig?
 
cybrfire said:
Chris,

For posterity sake, would you post up all the particulars on your rig?
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Kert, i know my old dodge weighed 6000 lbs. It had a 47rh vs a getrag 360, so it had an even higher overdrive. In OD with the torque convertor locked, i could only do about 90 on 33" rubber. I had a 3.55 gear ratio.

I would suggest the 3.73s in your application. The 6bt will run limiter all day, and never have a problem. My truck was a p-pump, and max rpm was around 2600, while driving. Defuel would start shortly after 2200 rpm.

The biggest thing you can do that will help both power, and fuel economy is timing. Its not as essential on a rotary pump, because they are variable, but changing the base timing is nothing but beneficial.


Is Alaska in your future?....
 
cybrfire said:
Chris,

For posterity sake, would you post up all the particulars on your rig?
Click to expand...

'84 M1008 K30, 3" suspension lift 1" body (for fan clearance), 37" BFG Baja T/A military take-offs. 4.10's in the axles, Getrag/205.

Engine is 93 Cummins, intercooler from 94-02 Dodge mounted upside down (fits very well around GM radiator).

It started out bone stock, I initially intended to keep it that way. After a couple months I bought a fuel pin for it (more fuel, more power, definitely worth it) and it started to bark the stock turbo.

So that started a slipperly slope, as of now it has:

Denny T fuel pin (way worth it)
Dynamic timing device (probably worth it)
Dynomite diesel injectors, just a touch bigger than stock (mine were leaking)
4" Diamond Eye exhaust for 93 Dodge, fits well
Stock timing
Injection pressure turned up all the way
HE351CW turbo from '05 Cummins

If you do anything with the turbo other than big $$ aftermarket stuff, do the HE351CW. The exhaust housing is half the size so the turbo spools much faster, 4" exhaust outlet vs. stock 2.5", the turbo wheel is bigger and the intake plumbing is bigger. All around means a faster spooling turbo that moves a lot more air more efficiently.

At this point I think I'm done messing with it, it works great towing my buggy around. Plenty of power, reliable, efficient, not much more you could ask for!
 
Some things I've noticed about this Getrag transmission.

There is no vent tube that I can find.
There is no Neutral safety switch.

There is a switch that activates for Reverse gear.
 
cybrfire said:
Some things I've noticed about this Getrag transmission.

There is no vent tube that I can find.
There is no Neutral safety switch.

There is a switch that activates for Reverse gear.
Click to expand...
Neutral safety switch is on the clutch linkage.
 
kennyw said:
That is the way GM has been doing it for years.
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I don't believe i've had a working neutral safety switch for at least 20 years, that is, till I purchased the '98 i'm driving now.

I have two reasons I'd like to have a neutral safety switch on the trans to actually prevent starting in gear. I figured out a way to do a remote start and also wanted to use the truck as a diesel generator with an auto start function.

So far, only solution I can come up with is a limit switch set up on an ebrake. Still just a half measure and would require that you remember to leave it out of gear and engage the ebrake. Otherwise bad things could certainly happen.

OH SNAP!... (just hit me) why not a neutral safety switch set up on the transfer case. Might even work better.
 
Yeah, I never thought I needed a neutral safety switch, who is stupid enough to start a vehicle in gear, right?

Then my buddy's girlfriend (at the time, wife now), got in my 1982 K30 3+3, pretty drunk. I didn't think much of it. For whatever reason, she turned the key on, and cranked the engine for just a second. The 454 fired right to life. Instead of slamming on the clutch or the brakes, or turning the key off, she threw her hands up and screamed. Them it slammed into my other buddy's pickup. Even at that slow of a speed, his tail gate didn't make it....

Martin
 
Yeah Kert, if you run a 205 you could use one of those PTO drives and leave the t-case in neutral?
 
I had a buddy wire a remote start with no neutral safety switch...one cold day he started it up from inside and watched it jump the curb run across the street and take out a chain link fence!
 
folkenheath said:
Yeah Kert, if you run a 205 you could use one of those PTO drives and leave the t-case in neutral?
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Yep, I have the PTO drive, that'd be one way to do a fairly big generator. Another way to do it and really come down to what you want to use the genny for, small stuff around the camp site or larger stuff say in the midst of some sort of natural disaster where all power is lost. Smaller stuff could be set up with inverters rather than an actual generator.

Jimbo* said:
What are you planning to use as a governor, to control engine speed with regard to generator load?
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This is the question that might make me want to just do the inverters. I'm thinking more along the lines of lights around the camp or tools after a trail run and not running the batteries dead.

I am looking into the full generator. I have some experience with the Onan generators.

Rtull32 said:
I had a buddy wire a remote start with no neutral safety switch...one cold day he started it up from inside and watched it jump the curb run across the street and take out a chain link fence!
Click to expand...

Exactly what needs to be made dummy proof. To easy to forget to put it in neutral.
 
Oil pump for the trans cooler setup on the side of the trans.

image_zps568d1af3.jpg


Frame rails coming together.

image_zps4b76d8ac.jpg
 
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