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83 gmc jimmy 6.2, mild restoration

Would I just check for 12 volts at that main connector? All the lights in the panel work so I know the circuit board is getting some power
 
Pull up a schematic for that year of truck, it should tell you which wire is the power feed to the panel. Should even give you color codes (but those aren't always right).
 
Stick a voltmeter to the two prongs where the voltmeter goes. It should read your battery voltage with the key on.

Martin
 
So I got the gauges figured out everything is working great now, next project is fixing my hvac selector, I've only got suction to one of the lines out of the 4 that hook to the switch, the gray and black one, I need a vacuum line diagram to figure out where the rest go, I'm curious as to how they all hook to the small line coming off of the pump, is it a series of t connectors or what?
 
Any hints from anyone @campfire @82355 @diesel4me a guy from work told me it might be the selector, but I'm not sure, should I have suction at all the lines where they connect to the selector or just one, that being because the selector takes vacuum from the supply line and transfers it to the others?
 
Any hints from anyone @campfire @82355 @diesel4me a guy from work told me it might be the selector, but I'm not sure, should I have suction at all the lines where they connect to the selector or just one, that being because the selector takes vacuum from the supply line and transfers it to the others?

I have no experience here. I do, however, have a non-functioning vaccuum-based HVAC selector on my Suburban, so I'll be paying attention to what you find.

A manual for that year of truck should include a vacuum diagram. The CUCV manual won't help, as they used the simpler, cable-based HVAC controls. But a good civilian manual should have what you're looking for. Might even find it in the Haynes or Chilton manuals.
 
Sorry,my manuals lack vacuum diagrams,and my pickup has no A/C,only my Suburban did (and its now missing the compressor & condensor)--I haven't had to mess with the dash selector levers on any with A/C so I'm not much help there..
I would assume that only one hose comes off the vacuum source into the dash,and gets "sent" to various vacuum cans to close the hot/cold door and air vents ,etc via the selector..
I'm pretty sure my Burb has only one hose going into the firewall..
 
Yes there should be one hose coming off the tee on top of the vacuum pump going through the firewall in to the selector and then the selector sends the vacuum to each actuator to open and close the doors. Make sure you have vacuum at the pump first and then make sure you are getting it in at the selector also with the engine running. Then it's a matter of running the selector and checking for vacuum to each actuator. Sorry I don't have a diagram on me. I'll check my Haynes and Chilton manuals at home when I get a chance. You can possibly just put your thumb over the hoses to check for vacuum but you may need to get a cheap vacuum gauge and hook it up to each hose to check. I'm not sure how many inches of vacuum the pumps make as I do not have a vacuum gauge. Do you know if your vacuum pump is even making vacuum at all?
 
Pump works great and I'm getting vacuum at my lines that connect to the selector, 4 lines connect to the selector I've got vacuum at 1 of them, I'm hoping it's just a bad selector, will take it apart tonight
 
Yep I believe there should be only vacuum to one to supply the selector with vacuum then it should send it out on each of the other lines to the actuators. My current blazer(also an '83 like yours) is the first one I've ever had with working hvac and functioning controls. I'd much rather have a bare bones heater with cable controls but mine works so I'm sticking with it, plus the wife likes the a/c.
 
So after vacuum testing my pump It's shot, only getting between 5 and 7 hg, cruise diaphragm is garbage also haha, on the bright side all my hvac controls worked when I applied vacuum from a hand pump, so now I just need to find a new pod for the pump and I should be good to go, only problem is that a pod is like 120 bucks, I have heard that a pod for early 7.3 will work but it has to be flipped around. Anyone on here know someone that has done this or installed an electric vacuum pump in place of oem?
 
Check out my thread on the diesel section on rear mount 6.2 vacuum pump. I just changed mine. Best place I found was eBay. A guy in Ohio I think. Like 109 and 8 bucks shipping. 7.3 pod is for belt driven 6.5 pumps.
 
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