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83 K5 sloppy steering with videos

Socket for hub bearing
IMG_20230526_220612.jpg
Ball joints lower on left upper on right. IMG_20230526_220531.jpg
Socket for castle bushing
IMG_20230526_220548.jpgIMG_20230526_220557.jpg
You should be able to rent these 2 sockets rom AutoZone.
You will also want a ball press kit.
Also rentable. https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...press&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false
Get the adapter kit as well. Harbor freight has this tool with a nice a selection of adapters for less than $100. Big sale this weekend.

You will also need snap ring pliers. For hubs and ball joints
 
Thanks. Actually...thanks to all of you have been so helpful! That’s why I decided to upgrade today. Out of gratitude for the patience shown to me when dealing with my relentless noob questions. It is truly appreciated. Hopefully when I learn enough, I can pay it forward.

This article is helpful. But, I am a little nervous about damaging the seals when pulling the axles out. Is that common? And what is a pumpkin?

Also, how can a newbie tell if the bearings need replacement? And the races (I think they are what the bearings mate with)?

Crazy question: did I understand this correctly.... was it recommended to leave PVC pipe inside the axle housing? And to run the truck while they were still in? Or just to guide the axle into the housing. I don’t do any off roading. This is more of a daily driver.

@Wes Harden thanks for those photos.
 
Photo's are current state of my axle so I can get more if you need. Have company this weekend so not much truck time for me.
The seals can be damaged, and replacing them requires removing the ring gear carrier. 10 bolt has a little more work involved than a d44. a special too to press the seal back into housing is also needed. I made my own with some all thread, nuts and big flat washers.

When you remove the axles shafts try not to let them drag on at the very start of the removing, the seals are near the pumpkin end of the tubes. The short one is easy, the long side, try to use a bar short way into the tube to gently push up/ Push just enough to keep the shaft centered in the tube for a few inches.
This should keep the spline from dragging on the seal surface.
Unfortunately there is no easy way to inspect these seals. I'll try and get some pics in bit
 
Seals, I think one is original and one a replacement.
IMG_20230527_100432.jpgIMG_20230527_100424.jpg
I damaged the one long side removing it.
Short side installed and removed, Dana 44. 10bolt is similar.
IMG_20230527_100507.jpgIMG_20230527_100515.jpg
 
I was bummed out yesterday. I went to Autozone, Advance Auto and O’Reilly and they all said they don’t press the ball joints in for you, but will rent the equipment. I thought I had heard some places will do them for you for a charge.
 
wow Mine has @ that many uses at least, and going strong even loaned it out to a few peps. Is at least 20 years old. @K5Devil is gonna use it soon then I'm doing my ball joints and axle shaft u joints. I prefer the ball joint press for u joints over my 20 ton hydraulic press.
 
Wes Harden said:
wow Mine has @ that many uses at least, and going strong even loaned it out to a few peps. Is at least 20 years old. @K5Devil is gonna use it soon then I'm doing my ball joints and axle shaft u joints. I prefer the ball joint press for u joints over my 20 ton hydraulic press.
Click to expand...
U-joints get done in the vise. My dad learned me that way.
 
Wes Harden said:
wow Mine has @ that many uses at least, and going strong even loaned it out to a few peps. Is at least 20 years old. @K5Devil is gonna use it soon then I'm doing my ball joints and axle shaft u joints. I prefer the ball joint press for u joints over my 20 ton hydraulic press.
Click to expand...
Maybe I got a bad batch of cheap Chinese metal. :dunno:
 
Yeah I used to do the vise is hard on my sockets so I switched to the ball joint press.

edit I put the ball joint press in the vise if that help :haha:
 
My local NAPA did mine, they had someone that did actual work there and knew what he was doing. He had good tools...there was no way they were coming out with what AutoZone let me rent.
 
Wes Harden said:
Socket for castle bushing
View attachment 448008
You should be able to rent these 2 sockets rom AutoZone.
Click to expand...
Wes, do you know another name of this socket? I went to autozone and they had no idea what I was talking about. Or maybe a link?

Also, does that bushing (that goes into the knuckle before you put upper ball joint in) come with a new ball joint or does it have to be purchased separately? If so, what is the specific name?
 
Aviodont said:
Wes, do you know another name of this socket? I went to autozone and they had no idea what I was talking about. Or maybe a link?

Also, does that bushing (that goes into the knuckle before you put upper ball joint in) come with a new ball joint or does it have to be purchased separately? If so, what is the specific name?
Click to expand...
Spanner socket.
You can also make one out of a deep socket using a grinder in a few mins. I believe it’s a 13/16 but you can match the nut to the correct size to verify.
 
Any good quality upper ball joint should come with that new spanner bushing and nut.
There is also offset bushings, designed to give minor alignment adjustment. Sold separately. These special bushing, are only needed to help with problem alignments.
 
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