83 K5 sloppy steering with videos

[Blue85]

The steering wheel spline lets you install it in any orientation, but there is really only one correct one, so the horn wire and the turn-signal cam are centered correctly. Centering of the steering wheel is done via the drag-link length. The column is designed with more turns than the steering gear, so this shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Wes Harden]

All true. I have to wounder how the wheel is 180° out. The rag joint is has an index. The slip joint at the column-intermediate shaft, may be where the timing is off. Since the wheel is 180° out this seem to be the best explanation.
Before you remove the wheel disconnect the shaft between steering box and column, have a helper turn the wheel to correct orientation, and hold it, re-install shaft.

 

[Aviodont]

Updates:
Went with red top gearbox and Mile marker manual hubs, rotors resurfaced

About to put together u-joints (no zerk) and pack wheel bearings, then put in tie rods. What grease would I use for these?

Also, can the leaf spring bushings be done with the truck’s front end put back together completely (except for wheels mounted)?

 

[Wes Harden]

Amazon.com

Don't use a grease with moly in the name or black in color.

Yes you can do the bushings with springs in the truck. Do one end at time, easy.

 

[Aviodont]

when reinserting the front axles, what is the best way to keep from dragging the dirt/rust inside the axle tube all the way into the differential?

I know someone mentioned using PVC, but, for the life of me, I cannot picture how they are doing it. Anyone know a video explanation of that or another method?

 

[Blue85]

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/axle-tech-tip.51299/

 

[Aviodont]

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/axle-tech-tip.51299/

Do you think that sliding the PVC in could push dirt in since its OD is close to the ID of the axle tube? Also, if I instead did it where I cut out 1/3 and slid that in on the bottom a guide to slide the axle in, the slide the PVC out, could that work as well?

 

[Blue85]

Well I've never done it, but it seems like you could use the 1/3 section as a guide instead of the 2/3 section. Once the tip of the shaft goes into the hole (heh, heh), lift the U-joint up far enough to slide the PVC back out.

Someone described making an axle tube cleaner out of a length of all-thread and some washers. You could try elevating one side of the axle at a time and shooting solvent down the tube from inside the diff, too.

 

[Aviodont]

Ok, will try. Worried about the long side, trying to keep the top of the shaft up

In all seriousness, as I put this front end back together after starting 3 months ago, I don’t remember all the seals that are needed.

I know the inside end of the spindles need seals, it looks like a two piece seal that goes in the back of the spindle and a larger one that fits snug around the axle near the ujoint (see photos of old ones which I will attach after this message)

What about the axle tubes as the axles exit the tubes?

The inside of the rotors need seals.

Anyplace else? I can’t think of any.

 

[Wes Harden]

you use all 3 of those. Big one on 1st, plastic washer second bevel toward stub base, then rubber seal. iirc the channel goes against plastic washer.

 

[Aviodont]

you use all 3 of those. Big one on 1st, plastic washer second bevel toward stub base, then rubber seal. iirc the channel goes against plastic washer.

Stub base? Can you clarify that?

Also, can you confirm: no seal at the exit of the axle tube (where the axle shaft comes out towards knuckle)?

 

[Wes Harden]

THe joint end of stub shft

 

[Aviodont]

So, based on recommendations, I decided to fabricate a PVC pipe guide to slide the axles in. I found this at Ace Hardware and cut about a third out since the ID was just a little smaller than the axle shaft. It has the added benefit of having a little lip which will let me pull it out.

Regarding grease, does the whole shaft get greased or only the splines that enter the differential seal?

 

[Wes Harden]

since you are removing that "guide" grease just the splines. Some leave the pcv whole and leave in place, ifaik that works on D60, haven't heard it it being left in on D44 or 10B.
I use a pry bar or large screw drive to help me guide the long side in, the short side too, but it is much easier

 

[Aviodont]

Ahhh! The drama never ends with me!

So I was about to put the passenger knuckle on first today. But I couldn’t get the bottom ball joint (MOOG K8195T) threads to stick up above the lower part of the knuckle. I then went and looked at the old ball joint and realized that the boot in the new one is very tall. Otherwise they are the same dimensions.

I went back to the RockAuto website and sure enough when I put my truck info in, it gives me K8195T which I ordered.

Maybe I am meant to squish the boot harder to compress it, but the old boot is very small, like a low dome.

Does anyone know the correct part number?

 

[Wes Harden]

I used that same lower on mine just last month.

 

[Aviodont]

I used that same lower on mine just last month. View attachment 456237

Okay, I guess I will just have to push up real hard. It notice the lower ball joint goes further in to the lower yoke if I don’t thread the sleeve all the way in to the upper yoke (as the write up by Brandon/ftn96 recommended). Can you take a picture of your lower ball joint so I can see how much compression of the boot I need? Also of the upper to see how far in the sleeve is threaded?

 

[Wes Harden]

Yes only install the upper sleeve 2/3 - 3/4, istsll knuckle, thread upper nut on.
Tighten lower nut first, I like to use the old nut if not damaged. Sometimes you need to force the tampered stud into the C. If axle is in th truck use a jack to push it up. If axle is not in the truck a large pair of channel locks squeezing the upper knuckle to the C, or a C clamp.
Once you get the lower nut tightened to 80 ft pd, Tighten and torque the bushing to 50 ft pd. Then the upper nut to 140 ft pd, always Tighten to line up cotter key.
If you used an old nut on the lower stud, replace it with the new one. Again torque to 80 ft pd

 

[Aviodont]

...
Tighten lower nut first, I like to use the old nut if not damaged. ...
If you used an old nut on the lower stud, replace it with the new one....

Why do you like to use the old nut? Is it just to get it started, then after you get the bushing and upper nut torqued down, then you remove old nut and torque down new nut?

Also, which of the following fittings go in the bottom of the lower ball joint? They were both in the bag.

 

[Wes Harden]

The lower nuts are thread pinch lock type nuts, and have tendency to turn the ball stud instead of drawing it up tight. If you can't get a good friction fit on the taper, it can be a pita. Old nut has less of the lock so less chance of spinning ball stud.