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83' M1009 Rebuild to Civilian

How much do you like the wheels that are currently on the truck? I ask because they seem to stick out further (less backspacing) than stock 15x8 steelies. Having that wheel out further will put the tire into the fender on turns. Stock wheels or something with equivalent backspace to stock might have better results.

It's hard to tell for sure from pics, just going by what I see and throwing that out there.

FWIW, I had 33x12.5R15 on 15x8 white wagon wheels with 3.75" backspace on stock suspension and they cleared the fenders without issue, even off road. It wasn't untill I removed the front sway bar (more flex) that I needed to trim the fenders. I know every truck is different, but most people report that 33s fit on stock suspension and stock size and backspace wheels without hitting the fenders, especially with street and mild off road use.
 
496truck said:
How much do you like the wheels that are currently on the truck?

Actually I only put them on there for reference to the size and look. I had them from the civilian 86 donor Jimmy I had. I do like the look of them but they are far from perfect (corrosion) and I hadn't really planned either way on keeping them. Wanted to try driving it to see if I liked the size. Slightly narrower wouldn't hurt that's for sure. The tread on these tires is 10 1/2". I know when you hit a good size puddle with them especially at any speed they make for an adventure!:D
I should have many options for wheels/tires I can look at. I have two complete sets of the military steel wheels that I'm thinking of using with maybe baby moons on them. Main thing is to get this damn truck done. Plenty of time to decide on the wheels and tires. To drive it for now I'll just use the stock military set I have now. Should really use up the tires I have anyway.
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I did a 1" body lift on my Suburban. At the same time I did new body mounts from LMC, so I had two sets of hardware. I actually mixed and matched, but I would sure think they would work with just the ORD hardware.

My 1990 K5 has a 1" body lift on it, but it was installed by the previous owner. I guess I have never read on here where people had any trouble with ORD's hardware.

Martin
 
As for wheels, if I was you I would run the CUCV wheels with GM hub caps. I like the CUCV wheels because they are 8" wide like the rallys. The civilian base steel wheels are only 6" wide.

Here is a thread I started for pictures of rigs with stock steel wheels and hub caps.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=281002

Martin
 
Looked around on the web tonight and I decided I like the American Racing Baja wheels. I'm thinking the 15x8's. There are two models, XXX83 with 3.75 and xxx84 with 5.25 back spacing. If I went with the 3.75's on the rear and the 5.25's on on the front would it give a more in line tracking of the front tires to the rear. Would the offset up front cause the chance of tires hitting the springs at full lock? I was thinking a 32 or possibly the 33's if they would clear without any mods.

Here's the link to the wheels:http://www.amazon.com/American-Raci...00CIHP62/ref=pd_rhf_ee_p_dnr_2#productDetails
 
Massboy said:
Looked around on the web tonight and I decided I like the American Racing Baja wheels. I'm thinking the 15x8's. There are two models, XXX83 with 3.75 and xxx84 with 5.25 back spacing. If I went with the 3.75's on the rear and the 5.25's on on the front would it give a more in line tracking of the front tires to the rear. Would the offset up front cause the chance of tires hitting the springs at full lock? I was thinking a 32 or possibly the 33's if they would clear without any mods.

Here's the link to the wheels:http://www.amazon.com/American-Raci...00CIHP62/ref=pd_rhf_ee_p_dnr_2#productDetails
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3.75 front and rear.
 
If you are going to run those, why not just find a set of the OEM aluminum wheels? With the factory center caps they look better than any aftermarket wheels.

Martin
 
Don't run two different offsets. Rotating your tires will suck
 
Chevy305 said:
Don't run two different offsets. Rotating your tires will suck
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Thanks for the fast responses guys.

Ya, I was thinking rotating them would be a PITA too.

The 3.75 would be more in center and be better for the bearings I would think.

As far as finding the stock aluminum wheels up here in NE I think it will be almost impossible. If I find some and have to have them shipped they will probably cost more than these wheels also. Less than $100 ea shipped I thought was pretty cheap.

Now. Any tire recommendations? This truck will be a mostly on-road truck so a mild M&S radial is most likely what I would want to run. I want a quiet running tire and something in 32-33 diameter as long as the tire will fit on the 15x8 rim and clear the wheel wells.
 
Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo

I had a set of these on my 2500HD. Really great tire, great snow and wet traction and quiet down the road. Must have put 50k miles on them before selling the truck and they still had plenty of life left in them. They were pricey, but worth it in my opinion.
 
Had a few people tell me to go to a Town Fair tire store as they are American Racing distributors and they supposedly will work with you on pricing and match what the wheels cost on the internet. Will have to check that out and possibly get wheels and tires there if the price is right.
Got more done on the truck these past few days. Both doors are completely done on the outside with mirror, locks, and door handles. Bought and installed Aries 3" SS nerf bars so the wife can get in easier. Started installing the interior plastics. It is kind of a pain in the A$$ as this being a M1009, there was never any interior plastics so every hole has to be drilled after the plastics have been put in their proper place. Then you have to hold the piece while the hole is drilled. Got my overhead cabin light in and a brand new windshield. The hood, tailgate, front grille apron, and the wiper area apron all got painted yesterday with the hood getting buffed today. Going to install all the parts tomorrow.
Got interior panel on the passenger door today after I installed self adhesive plastic to block any cold air from coming through the door panel. Installed a new pull strap with new plastic covers. I need to put the chrome strip and the plastic vent from the original lower rugged panel onto the brand new panels I bought for the doors. Put the dash in place and realized because it is a new dash pad some of the edges will need to be trimmed to pass the plastic trim pieces along the door gasket. Not much trimming but some because the pad sticks out in places on the edges. Really starting to come together.

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My new lower panels done. Removed the cheap vents and installed the vents from original OEM panels. Also installed the chrome strip at the top. The picture shows the new panel as they come from the rug company and one done up with the original vent and chrome strip. Both doors are done other than I need to order another pull strap as the new one on the passenger door is darken than the one I had plus I like the color of the new better. Other than that, both doors are completely done. Finished drilling all the holes for the interior cab plastics and putting all the screws in. Got a nice blister in my hand from the damn screwdriver. Removed the plastics, put in the visors, the new head liner, then re-installed all the plastics. Put on a new chrome face on the dash board bezel, trimmed out the opening for the radio and put the bezel on. Once I get a new pulse wiper module I will close up the bottom of the dash under the column and the dash will be completely done. Started cleaning the seat belts with Presta Products Conquest HD Cleaner. This stuff works amazingly fast and makes everything virtually new. Will probably go and install rear rugs and possibly front rug w/console tomorrow.
We didn't install the hood yet as they just finished getting back to buffing it today. Might do it tomorrow. Have to go and pick up the powder coated bumper brackets, D ring brackets, and D rings. Need to install this before we can install the front apron and adjust everything for the grille. I can't believe how big this job is as everything is a project. Because of this truck being a M1009 and I'm doing it civilian it is more than just putting things back. All the civilian stuff needs to be aligned and fitted because there is no holes for mounting a lot of the stuff. It's just very time consuming.

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Thanks 305, so much better than that damn orange!:D Went to the body shop today to do more. Put the console in place and drilled the mounting holes for it. Put on the cowl top apron and installed the lower grille valance. I then cleaned and polished the chrome trim from the valance. It had a bunch of black paint on it from the donor Jimmy some of my parts came from. What I bet most don't realize is the console is not centered in the truck. There is 1" more room on the passenger side which makes sense for rear accessibility. Luckily I found the two dimples in the steel for the console's front mounting screws. The Aluminum sound deadner is just thin enough to show those dimples. Brought my rugs and laid the rear one down. Started gluing the asphalt floor insulation down with Super 77 just enough to hold it in place when I start to put the front rug in. Will probably mount the hood tomorrow. My buddy needs to get it done and out now. He has lots of cars coming in. Been cold, icy, and snowing up here and people are wrecking cars.
 
Back at the shop tonight. Installed the grille and components, the front rug, console, 4wd lever trim, and new thresholds. This rug is really well made with thick padding plus the mass backing. Really fits well.
Need to pick up the bumper and tow ring brackets from the powder coaters tomorrow. Once the brackets are installed I can mount the front bumper and install the tailgate.

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Picked up all the powder coated brackets. Super nice job as they look brand new. Nice and thick coating. Installed front and rear brackets and installed front bumper with new chrome carriage bolts just finger tight. Need to install the front brush guard yet. Took the leather driver's seat I got and cleaned it up with APC. That stuff cleans really fast and real good. Just put the seat in to see how it will look and put down my new floor mats. It was hard finding gray mats that fit a blazer as most offered are black. Will work on making seat mounts that will bolt into the existing holes in the floor and the seat frame will bolt into tapped holes in the 1/2 flat steel mount. Now that the rear frame brackets are back on the tailgate can go on once it's buffed. Possibly the hood and tailgate might go on tomorrow.

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It looks like a real truck again with the grille on :thumb:
 
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