CK5
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I don't think an ez out is going to touch this.

Not looking forward to drilling at all.

And yes the engine is in good shape as far as I can tell and I have receipts showing the engine was rebuilt. It just needed seals and freeze plugs.

Hate to pull the crank to have it machined but that may be my best option.

Need to sleep on it.

Hate when that happens. Ill ask the engine builder tomorrow if he knows any tricks. I imagine he'll say pull the crank but you never know...
 
Pull the crank. I have had that happen twice.

Well before that a? When you welded the nut on did it pull metal off the bolt. If it didn't the nut was not welded on enough.

If it did well pull the crank.

That's not exactly a small bolt to snap the head off.
 
You are using a extra big nut that slips over the threads right? Like a 5/8 or 3/4? Pulling the crank wouldn't be that bad, just shove all the rods up the bores. I have done it. Helps to have a buddy. If you die grinder, be sure to tape off that opening inside the seal.
 
FYI if you want to drill it, you do NOT want to heat and water it. You want to anneal it but I am not sure how to do that. Also after welding. Let it sit till it cools. The crank is cold and the bolt will be hot so it will be a tighter fit.
 
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I used the same size nut, 1/2 20, threaded it on and then welded it. I didn't take much of the bolt with it when it snapped, just a couple ridges on the end of the bolt. The bolt was cooled off before I tried to wench on it.

It almost appears the bolt could be on a slight angle in the crank too.

Pulling the crank out doesn't seem that bad as mentioned already. Then it can be repaired correctly with the right tools by a machinist.
 
I would get a bigger nut so you have s root gap allowing more penetration. I would try a 5/8. Threads don't matter. Space it with something to tack it then pull out the spacers and burn it in. Maybe try some 7018.
 
I used the same size nut, 1/2 20, threaded it on and then welded it. I didn't take much of the bolt with it when it snapped, just a couple ridges on the end of the bolt. The bolt was cooled off before I tried to wench on it.

It almost appears the bolt could be on a slight angle in the crank too.

Pulling the crank out doesn't seem that bad as mentioned already. Then it can be repaired correctly with the right tools by a machinist.

In thinking about it you're probably time ahead by pulling the crank. It could be dealt with correctly and they will make sure the threads are cherry.
 
The threads are now junk. It will be helicoil time either way.
 
I have in the past where there is almost nothing sticking out welded a washer on, usually followed by another washer of a different size and then the nut. But those threads are screwed so the crank has gotta be pulled anyway
 
I'll try burning in a bigger bolt tonight before I pull the crank.

I'm not too excited about rotating this engine on the stand with the heads on.
 
I'll try burning in a bigger bolt tonight before I pull the crank.

I'm not too excited about rotating this engine on the stand with the heads on.

That can get super crazy fast spinning a bb on an engine stand. That's why I got the bb/diesel engine stand from hf.

I talked to an og at work. We agreed on two things.

The first being that grade 8 is really just case hardening and it could be drilled out, it's just a very awkward angle and position. With some bad ass 135° drill bits it could be done but you'd have to be tits on with the center for stepping drill sizes up to work right.

The other thing is that with the right machinist and a large enough lathe it could be fixtures to be drilled out.

We also agreed it would probably be worth it to pull the crank. You never know you may find a bearing or something that's not looking good.

Pulling the heads would suck. I originally thought I'd leave them myself but I wasn't sure the shape the head gaskets were in and I didn't want to find out on the trail. You can see where that's gotten me now lol. Down the long road of might as well.

You could pull the heads just to make it easier or safer to flip. It's relatively quick...provided theres not a preexisting snapped head bolt like mine lol.
 
It's a 4 legged 1k lb rated stand. I just don't like the fact that's it's top heavy with the heads on it. I have head gaskets for it so yeah.....
 
It's a 4 legged 1k lb rated stand. I just don't like the fact that's it's top heavy with the heads on it. I have head gaskets for it so yeah.....

Yeah those are standard issue! You should see mine! It's got outriggers lol. It takes up like a 5x4 area haha.

Woohoo! Head pulling! At least you'll know you have fresh gaskets...
 
I can barely justify storing the stand I have and the only reason I do is because it holds my 57 Johnson outboard.

IMG_5969sm_zpsuessrr4h.jpg
 
I spoke with Parrish Automotive, he said they typically mill the crank and tap it to the next size up (9/16 or 5/8 in this case). Those guys kick ass, they've always treated me well so I'll yank the heads & crank tonight and drop the crank off tomorrow.

Guess I should order some new head bolts :screwy:
 
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