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'84 K10 The Animal- Now on Forty Two's

Adventure truck
Overview Gallery Discussion
I built a crossover for my big block/Land Cruiser project... talk about a tight squeeze with the 3 link.

o2side.jpg


o2front.jpg


I'll see if I can dig up any more pics.
 
that doesn't look like fun.

I'm pretty sure I'll run some shortys like @F.S.F.W bought or go back to manifolds, cross the passenger pipe under the range box (use an oval tube if needed) and merge the two pipes on the DS or run two smaller mufflers interdependent of each other. I'll have to wait and see how much room I have....
 
Yah I had some long tubes and there was no way to get the exhaust up where I wanted it I am running manifolds. But shortys would have been fine
 
blazinzuk said:
Other then them cracking I have never had manifold issues plenty of issues with headers though
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The original manifolds off this engine had at least one crack on the backside. Otherwise I probably would have ran them through the blast cabinet and used them again. I sent MAXMAN a message about the manifolds he has FS.
 
I think you wound up clocking right to where I did with my 203/205. Sure does make for some limited exhaust routing options with that 205 right in the damn way on the passenger side but if you do your crossmembers below the frame you may be able to skirt around the case inside the frame if you don't box that section. Since my crossmember is inside the frame and boxed, that was off the table for me
 
I looked at the option of going around the 205 but it's too tight, just at 3". I had some of your crossmember pics saved in a file, I still might run the anti-wrap and the rear np205 support off the same crossbar like you did. He rest will be mounted below the frame with a skid.
 
What about some of that oval tube mentioned earlier inside the frame? Someone said that was like 2.25" which is still tight but may be doable.

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with on the crossmembers and exhaust.

Btw, I have major EcoBox envy, wish I had gone that route instead. Oh well, next time . . .
 
Just a mild big block right, why not run dual 2.5" and merge into a single 3". Every ls powered vehicle I've owned (5) has had 3" duals because they love to breathe, on the blazer I made the compromise of 2.5" into 3" for clearance and hopes of alittle extra low end.
 
Tweekls1 said:
Just a mild big block right, why not run dual 2.5" and merge into a single 3". Every ls powered vehicle I've owned (5) has had 3" duals because they love to breathe, on the blazer I made the compromise of 2.5" into 3" for clearance and hopes of alittle extra low end.
Click to expand...

I watched a "engine" dyno video not to long ago that switched out different size exhausts... Long story short, the drop was only like 15-20 hp on a very built motor. To me that is negligible on rigs like ours. Headers can make a difference depending on the cam/heads but again I'm not really sure it makes that a big a difference in this application.
 
truck-oholic said:
What about some of that oval tube mentioned earlier inside the frame? Someone said that was like 2.25" which is still tight but may be doable.

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with on the crossmembers and exhaust.

Btw, I have major EcoBox envy, wish I had gone that route instead. Oh well, next time . . .
Click to expand...

oval tube is an option but I'd rather avoid it if I can. I'll build the crossmembers and see what makes sense. I'm still thinking under the eco box is the best move....


Tweekls1 said:
Just a mild big block right, why not run dual 2.5" and merge into a single 3". Every ls powered vehicle I've owned (5) has had 3" duals because they love to breathe, on the blazer I made the compromise of 2.5" into 3" for clearance and hopes of alittle extra low end.
Click to expand...

Yes it's pretty stock however I want to build a 496 or 502 later but for now the 2.5" into a 3" would be more than enough for this engine.....

brokenparts said:
I watched a "engine" dyno video not to long ago that switched out different size exhausts... Long story short, the drop was only like 15-20 hp on a very built motor. To me that is negligible on rigs like ours. Headers can make a difference depending on the cam/heads but again I'm not really sure it makes that a big a difference in this application.
Click to expand...

I bought the OE manifolds I linked back a few posts back so there really isn't any reason to go with 3" unless I want to build it for the future engine.

2.5" is sounding like the direction I'll take on this.
 
thanks for the pics, definitely a tight package in that chassis with the linked front axle.

ordered a bunch of hardware and the exhaust port plugs from McMaster Carr today. Also ordered a poly mount for the NP208 adapter that I thought I already ordered once.
 
messed around in the garage over the weekend a bit.

Here are the manifolds I picked up from @MAXMAN , they fit really nice. I'll probably blast, paint and cook them in the oven later....
IMG_2136sm_zpsrhcp5wtd.jpg

IMG_2137sm_zpsr4mhbspq.jpg


also started on the crossmember/skid plate. Used some 2" angle iron along the frame rail and then cut/notched some 2" square tube for the main trans mount.
50D26BB8-F6C0-4938-B375-B82FBA01275E_zpsb7cql4de.jpg

CF0D5FEB-00A7-46C0-846C-7A7F3B5319FA_zpsxicobhz0.jpg


IMG_2135sm_zpshxxkod29.jpg


I'm pretty sure the front DS will clear that crossbar but I've came to the conclusion I need to stuff the front axle under the frame to continue on with the rest of the crossmembers.

also picked up the HF 12" disc sander that I've been eyeballing for awhile. Works pretty damn good although I'm sure it could use a better quality abrasive.
IMG_2134sm_zps7qrcp2ij.jpg
 
Nice to see you making progress.

You going to angle the ends of the angle iron any? Might look nice with a 45 or maybe more so it tapered off visually from the side.

Good thinking on putting the axle back under to check clearances.

I think you may have motivated me to finally finish my belly skid this week.
 
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