beags86
Eastbound and Down
I like the sound of that!!.. For me it's doesn't get much better then crossing a river/stream
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
There was some discussion about that, I still might do that.....
Couple trails I plan on running have creeks that are known to cover 40's when they're letting water out from higher elevations.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
There was some discussion about that, I still might do that.....
Couple trails I plan on running have creeks that are known to cover 40's when they're letting water out from higher elevations.
At this point in time we wont have enough water to cover the valve stems lol!
Too bad you don't live closer i could anodize your switch plate!
I thought about that however I'm pretty sure they'll be letting water out of the dams still. Tahoe is getting low....
Anodizing? That's some fancy talk, then I'd worry about scratching it
Minimum releases for sure, not going to have to worry about high water on the whole west coast.
more than likely.
I ran up to Parts Mike http://www.partsmike.com/ picked up the correct inner axle seals and Spicer SPL55-3XU-Joints. Good to know these guys are there as they stock lots of the axle rebuild parts and they're right next to Knee Deep
Now I have to figure out the best way to install the new U-Joints since my press is too small and my vise is too
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
I thought about that however I'm pretty sure they'll be letting water out of the dams still. Tahoe is getting low....
Anodizing? That's some fancy talk, then I'd worry about scratching it
Yeah there will still be water. Haha nah you have to gouge pretty deep to get it to scratch!
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
more than likely.
I ran up to Parts Mike http://www.partsmike.com/ picked up the correct inner axle seals and Spicer SPL55-3XU-Joints. Good to know these guys are there as they stock lots of the axle rebuild parts and they're right next to Knee Deep
Now I have to figure out the best way to install the new U-Joints since my press is too small and my vise is too
Ive done it before by heating the ears of the axle and throw the u joint in the freezer for a while. Still requires a lot of pounding with bfh. Ever since ive had access to a big press i skip the beating.
I gave one a couple wacks with a hammer, it's didn't budge. Press seems like the right way....
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Yeah thats exactly why i found another front drive shaft as a spare. I have no desire to put a u joint in something on the trail.
Put the ears of the cross that you are removing on the vice, and wack the driveshaft yoke with a hammer.
Martin
Martin
I'd prefer not to change any on the trail but now that every U-Joint is fresh I'm pretty confident that I can break them loose (if needed) on the trail.
Is your front shaft going to work? I'm pretty sure my slip isn't long enough, I'll know for sure this weekend.
and the machine shop is handling the u-joints in the front axle shafts, they'll be done tomorrow AM
I should have tried a little harder and soaked them with some PB but I ended up dropping them off at the machine shop instead.
Thanks for the info Martin
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
I'd prefer not to change any on the trail but now that every U-Joint is fresh I'm pretty confident that I can break them loose (if needed) on the trail.
Is your front shaft going to work? I'm pretty sure my slip isn't long enough, I'll know for sure this weekend.
and the machine shop is handling the u-joints in the front axle shafts, they'll be done tomorrow AM
True.
I think it will work. i have the same springs in the front as before just more shock travel but it should be ok. With 52s its could get interesting. Is it a stock shaft?
fyi your axle nut socket needs to be checked for possible hit / snap off the index pin on the inner nut for the wheel bearing .
I have found that closed style ring support socket can be made little small and hit the tiny pin on the inner nut and snap it off . this gives you no way to lock the nut in spec with the washer in the middle .
had this happen to me years ago on a sat afternoon with no new parts avalible anywere .
had to wait till Monday and hit the junkyard for part as fast as I needed it .
I have found that closed style ring support socket can be made little small and hit the tiny pin on the inner nut and snap it off . this gives you no way to lock the nut in spec with the washer in the middle .
had this happen to me years ago on a sat afternoon with no new parts avalible anywere .
had to wait till Monday and hit the junkyard for part as fast as I needed it .
No it's not a stock shaft but the slip is close to stock 4"sh range. I've heard a couple guys say the stock shaft worked with the 52's but the majority say it won't
Limiting passenger side travel could be a band-aid fix. At this point I'm prepared to have a longer slip installed and if I do, I'll likely bump up to a 1350 yoke at the axle.
fyi your axle nut socket needs to be checked for possible hit / snap off the index pin on the inner nut for the wheel bearing .
I have found that closed style ring support socket can be made little small and hit the tiny pin on the inner nut and snap it off . this gives you no way to lock the nut in spec with the washer in the middle .
had this happen to me years ago on a sat afternoon with no new parts avalible anywere .
had to wait till Monday and hit the junkyard for part as fast as I needed it .
Interesting, I'll have to check that out. Thanks for sharing that info :beer:
Stock length slip works for me.
Martin
Martin
Sweetk30, thanks again for pointing that out, both pins are broken. Are those pins available or do I need to buy new spindle nuts?
