'84 K10 The Animal- Now on Forty Two's

[andyblack]

I always wondered if those little pins were necessary or not. I knew they seemed like they were supposed to go into the holes on the middle washer thing but I didn't think they were a big deal. Good info to make a mental note of.

 

[skunked]

Makes sense that they would keep the inner nut from moving while torquing the outer nut. Both of mine were not at 50 ft lbs, I know that much for sure. I kind of wonder if they were already broken....

I read last night that you can use needle bearing from the U-joint as replacement pins. I might just run up to Parts Mike again and pick up a couple new spicer spindle nut kits.

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

Makes sense that they would keep the inner nut from moving while torquing the outer nut. Both of mine were not at 50 ft lbs, I know that much for sure. I kind of wonder if they were already broken....

I read last night that you can use needle bearing from the U-joint as replacement pins. I might just run up to Parts Mike again and pick up a couple new spicer spindle nut kits.

I would definitely recommend getting new spindle nuts. I someones spindle nuts loosen on a dodge rolling down the freeway and it was ugly!

Interesting there calling for 50ftlbs for the outside nut. Thats a pretty weak torque for something like that. I read up on what other people have been setting there outside nut to and most said 80 is better, some reported as high as 120. I went with 80 and it felt right to me. Obviously the idea here is not to get it so tight it breaks the pins but i felt 50 wasnt enough.

Also the inside nut will be +or- a few lbs because you need to line the pin up to that nut which takes a few tries. I went just a tiny bit tighter because the bearings weren't seated as much as they would be after driving the truck.

 

[skunked]

I would definitely recommend getting new spindle nuts. I someones spindle nuts loosen on a dodge rolling down the freeway and it was ugly!

Interesting there calling for 50ftlbs for the outside nut. Thats a pretty weak torque for something like that. I read up on what other people have been setting there outside nut to and most said 80 is better, some reported as high as 120. I went with 80 and it felt right to me. Obviously the idea here is not to get it so tight it breaks the pins but i felt 50 wasnt enough.

Also the inside nut will be +or- a few lbs because you need to line the pin up to that nut which takes a few tries. I went just a tiny bit tighter because the bearings weren't seated as much as they would be after driving the truck.

The bearings are in good shape so I won't need to seat those. I'll likely run with the 50 and see how the washer lines up with the pin. I don't see why the bearings would need an excessive amount of pressure, tight yes of course.

 

[andyblack]

I was thinking you were supposed to put about 100-120 on the inner nut, then back it off a little and not put as much on the outer nut. Maybe I've been doing it wrong. I just know that once I let the ones on the passenger side get loose or something and the inner wheel bearing got too hot and seized up on the spindle.

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

The bearings are in good shape so I won't need to seat those. I'll likely run with the 50 and see how the washer lines up with the pin. I don't see why the bearings would need an excessive amount of pressure, tight yes of course.

Yeah my bearings were good too but they will no doubt pull together some small amount once its been driven around. In fact some procedure i read on tightening the nuts said go above 50 by some amount then loosen and retorque. Not a lot, just a little.

yeah it didnt line up perfect for me on either side so i adjusted till i got it.

Also those pin hole washers arent registered symmetrical to the key way so sometimes by flipping the washer you can gain or lose distance on lining up to the pin. A magnet on one of those little extendable pens are a lifesaver for installing.

Yeah the inner nut as you know sets the clamping force on the bearings and the outside prevents the whole mess from loosening up so it wont hurt to have a bit more torque on the outside only.

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

I was thinking you were supposed to put about 100-120 on the inner nut, then back it off a little and not put as much on the outer nut. Maybe I've been doing it wrong. I just know that once I let the ones on the passenger side get loose or something and the inner wheel bearing got too hot and seized up on the spindle.

Exactly, theres a happy medium to this. Im all for putting a bit more on the outside.

 

[skunked]

I was thinking you were supposed to put about 100-120 on the inner nut, then back it off a little and not put as much on the outer nut. Maybe I've been doing it wrong. I just know that once I let the ones on the passenger side get loose or something and the inner wheel bearing got too hot and seized up on the spindle.

That picture I posted above is directly from the Dana/Spicer manual.

Maybe you were missing the pin and your inner nut backed out

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

That picture I posted above is directly from the Dana/Spicer manual.

Maybe you were missing the pin and your inner nut backed out

Thats usually what happens is the pin gets sheared. In fact there are a few companies who make some super duper spindle nuts but i think they just need to be checked now and then.

Same here with the dana manual. I put the outer nut to 50ftlbs and it felt like a cream puff torque so i researched and found various answers.

Diesel guys say 120

wheeler guys say 50-80

manual 50

So i just went by feel once i got above 50 for a good mechanical lock.

 

[andyblack]

I normally go by feel now. I get it tight enough to where I feel it will hold, but loose enough for the hub/rotor to spin like it's supposed to.

A new set of those nuts is more expensive than you think they would be, too. I used to have a collection of old ones from junk axles lying around but I don't know what I've done with them. I think I have a couple of sets as spares in my truck bed-mounted toolbox just in case.

My thing is, when a nut of any kind is torqued down that much, wouldn't the metal stretch and make the nut less effective in remaining tight the next time you try to torque it down? I mean I know that in the real world it doesn't really matter, but I wonder what a mechanical engineer would say.

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

I normally go by feel now. I get it tight enough to where I feel it will hold, but loose enough for the hub/rotor to spin like it's supposed to.

A new set of those nuts is more expensive than you think they would be, too. I used to have a collection of old ones from junk axles lying around but I don't know what I've done with them. I think I have a couple of sets as spares in my truck bed-mounted toolbox just in case.

My thing is, when a nut of any kind is torqued down that much, wouldn't the metal stretch and make the nut less effective in remaining tight the next time you try to torque it down? I mean I know that in the real world it doesn't really matter, but I wonder what a mechanical engineer would say.

That's what they call yield. You're stretching material to a certain point which sort of locks it in like u bolts. If you go above the normal torque you technically should always return and add a little for a good a amount of tension. For what we're doing its not super critical.

 

[dremu]

In fact there are a few companies who make some super duper spindle nuts

http://www.stage8.com/offroad.html

I have a set on my 14BFF. Looove them. Brute force strong, simple, won't come apart, never have to dink with them.

-- A

 

[skunked]

Thats usually what happens is the pin gets sheared. In fact there are a few companies who make some super duper spindle nuts but i think they just need to be checked now and then.

Same here with the dana manual. I put the outer nut to 50ftlbs and it felt like a cream puff torque so i researched and found various answers.

Diesel guys say 120

wheeler guys say 50-80

manual 50

So i just went by feel once i got above 50 for a good mechanical lock.

ah your talking about torquing the outer bolt with more torque.....that makes more sense.

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

ah your talking about torquing the outer bolt with more torque.....that makes more sense.

Yeah man! Just the outside one. If that one loosens up its a down hill slope.

 

[skunked]

Anti-Wrap Done

The Anti-Wrap bars needed to be cut to length and I've been wanting some sort of bandsaw so I picked this up on Friday. After some tuning it's cutting nice and straight.

Anti-Wrap spindle burned in

Mixed in a little WFO with their design that uses a heim

 

[skunked]

Defanged

 

[skunked]

pulled these crusty manifolds off that were leaking

and bolted up Headmans with some FelPro gaskets

7 of 8 spark plug wires broke at the spark plug, MSD wires will be here today.

I picked up some 2.5" reducers and I have a couple 2.5" in/out Dynomax mufflers that I got off my buddy. He thought they were too quiet, perfect for my use

 

[skunked]

Cut to length and welded up a RuffStuff tie rod

 

[andyblack]

Everything's coming together and looking good.

 

[skunked]

And as you can see above in that pic I have a nice pile of diff fluid on the floor. After spending all that time pulling the axle shafts, carrier etc. to install the seals.........

I noticed that both shafts had some wear around the inner axle shafts where I believe the seals meets the axle shafts. It really wasn't that bad, very minor IMO however I took the time to knock it down with some 400 grit and I polished it back to a shine. I can't imagine that's the reason behind the leak. I was pretty irritated to find the leak this morning, 20hrs after I filled the diff.