CK5
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So if it is triggering an internal relay, then I know that there are spare terminals in the factory fuse box.

And aren't we glad that Mr. bent is taking time to visit with us???
At least he is being nicer than the text he sent me yesterday!! Lol!
 
So if it is triggering an internal relay, then I know that there are spare terminals in the factory fuse box.

And aren't we glad that Mr. bent is taking time to visit with us???
At least he is being nicer than the text he sent me yesterday!! Lol!

Here's the plan
FiTech%20Schematic_zpsdf3ubxtp.png


and there's plenty of day left for @bent72 :D
 
I already bombarded his phone this morning


So...
No heated O2
How does that timing work?
 
I already bombarded his phone this morning
So...
No heated O2
How does that timing work?

For timing control you use a locked out distributor, set the base timing mechanically and then tell the computer what that timing figure is. From there you can set other parameters including total timing so it can set a curve for you. I haven't messed with it much, just did a quick review on the El Camino.
 
Small updates but I was able to get both dipsticks installed, transmission cooler lines ran, oil pressure sender moved to the back of the block and the final fuel fitting installed at the tank.
6F59A8E4-40D0-4755-89BA-668140D66DF7_zpsauitsvga.jpg

B73A4D1B-F7AB-4F7B-B67B-6E9074B4449B_zpsf9df05vg.jpg

6A0C9429-E1B1-4A3A-8F07-DA7C3F382AAF_zpssls2lv0z.jpg

What kind of fuel lines did you run?
What kind of trans lines did you use as well. I see your trusting a worm clamp for the trans lines? Not that is a bad thing. Can't use compression fittings on that style of hose?
 
What kind of fuel lines did you run?
What kind of trans lines did you use as well. I see your trusting a worm clamp for the trans lines? Not that is a bad thing. Can't use compression fittings on that style of hose?

I'm using -6AN braided nylon hose off the tank to 3/8" & 5/16" hardline (feed is 3/8") down the frame rail and then back to -6AN up to the FiTech.

I originally was planning on running -8AN push-lok or something similar on the trans line but the Derale cooler kit I bought came with 10' of nice continental hose, barbed fittings and clamps. It's really thick hose so I don't think you can use compression fittings on it.
 
I'm using -6AN braided nylon hose off the tank to 3/8" & 5/16" hardline (feed is 3/8") down the frame rail and then back to -6AN up to the FiTech.

I originally was planning on running -8AN push-lok or something similar on the trans line but the Derale cooler kit I bought came with 10' of nice continental hose, barbed fittings and clamps. It's really thick hose so I don't think you can use compression fittings on it.

:thumb:
 
I've read the same thing about clean power source. Actually it's not really a power source per say, it's just a trigger for the built in relay. I was thinking about it more last night and looked at a couple schematics and remembered I had AC in this truck. I should be able to find an ignition hot off the fuse box.
I did read thru the Holley paperwork again and in addition to not using the coil + it also says not to use the starter solenoid. FWIW, I know it's not applicable to you but thought I'd share in case others come across the discussion.
 
I did read thru the Holley paperwork again and in addition to not using the coil + it also says not to use the starter solenoid. FWIW, I know it's not applicable to you but thought I'd share in case others come across the discussion.

I'm pretty sure FiTech recommends the same. A clean 12v signal is important apparently.
 
They also stress connecting directly to the battery. I'm sure my big battery switch will work fine but the directions have to be specific and play it safe not knowing what crazy connection some Gomer might come up with.

If I can't find a good 12v ignition wire I may do a relay like @6872xtc suggested.
 
They also stress connecting directly to the battery. I'm sure my big battery switch will work fine but the directions have to be specific and play it safe not knowing what crazy connection some Gomer might come up with.

If I can't find a good 12v ignition wire I may do a relay like @6872xtc suggested.

After reading through user "issues" with these different EFI systems it's almost always came back to poor installation or setup. When I talked to the FiTech tech he wanted to start from the beginning with installation notes and I was a little annoyed however after I thought about it, it did make sense....
 
I've read the same thing about clean power source. Actually it's not really a power source per say, it's just a trigger for the built in relay. I was thinking about it more last night and looked at a couple schematics and remembered I had AC in this truck. I should be able to find an ignition hot off the fuse box.

On the fitech the clean power source really need to be for the main power. As a Holley video describes it, connecting straight from the battery is the only way for that. The two main reasons are so that it can absorb any spike as well as provide clean uninterrupted power. Here is Holley's video, I tried to queue it up to the 6:36 but the embedding may do away with that. The video is decent to watch as a whole, but the explanation is clear at that point:

I think I took an ignition source for my switched power off of the fuse block, and that works fine.


EDIT: I guess you can skip all the way to 7:30 mark for his explantation
 
On the fitech the clean power source really need to be for the main power. As a Holley video describes it, connecting straight from the battery is the only way for that. The two main reasons are so that it can absorb any spike as well as provide clean uninterrupted power. Here is Holley's video, I tried to queue it up to the 6:36 but the embedding may do away with that. The video is decent to watch as a whole, but the explanation is clear at that point:

I think I took an ignition source for my switched power off of the fuse block, and that works fine.


EDIT: I guess you can skip all the way to 7:30 mark for his explantation

right, the battery 12v needs to run to the battery directly. I was talking about the ignition 12V, not suppose to use the coil, starter or any other shared circuit.
 
right, the battery 12v needs to run to the battery directly. I was talking about the ignition 12V, not suppose to use the coil, starter or any other shared circuit.
Got yah! I used the HEI distributor so no external coil and I am too inexperienced to think of another spot to get it, so straight from the fuse panel for me. I get what you are saying now.

They also stress connecting directly to the battery. I'm sure my big battery switch will work fine but the directions have to be specific and play it safe not knowing what crazy connection some Gomer might come up with.
I suppose my link was more in regards to why they say directly to battery as mentioned in this quote.
 
Yeah, I was going to say I thought you were talking to my post. What gets tricky for me is figuring out how to make it work with my 2-battery setup. I like the way it's setup because twice now I've had to loan people one of my batteries and it's not a problem with the battery switch I have.
 
@skunked, you've set up the timing control on another project? What distributor you use? How well do you feel it works out of the box, without tweaks?
 
@skunked, you've set up the timing control on another project? What distributor you use? How well do you feel it works out of the box, without tweaks?

My Dad did most of the setup when timing control was added to the El Camino. It's a pretty simple setup and it worked very well out of the box. Ended up needing some tweaks (more total timing) with the cam it's running but that's a simple and quick adjustment on the FiTech hand held controller. MSD 85501 is the distributor we used on the SBC and what I have for this BBC.
 
So are you going to run the timing control from the start? The Holley instructions actually recommend getting the system running without so it doesn't add to potential startup issues/troubleshooting.
 
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