CK5
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went home at lunch, did some more bleeding and visually checked the seal area around the booster shaft where it connects to the pedal for obstruction. After bleeding the pedal didn't feel great and I quickly found it was stuck on the floor again. However during the process I figured out the pedal is stuck when I hold it down for a while, like when I'm backing down my driveway. If you press down and release fairly quickly it won't stick. Secondly I visually noticed I'm getting more fluid from the rear calipers than the front when manually bleeding the brakes. This leads me to believe the master cylinder may be plumbed backwards (had it right the first time). So after work I'm going to double check the output of each port by measuring the volume and put that theory to bed. The brakes just don't feel right, the pedal should be firmer and not so low.
fk me.
fk me.
Man, what a mess. But you are smart enough that you are able to work through it. Me, I'd have eaten an entire box of crayons by now, and not be any further in my discoveries.
Keep at it!
Keep at it!
My pedal works fine with my master plumbed either way but it's also a disc/disc p30 master. Does it matter if you have the vacuum hooked up or not? I'm assuming you were bleeding with engine off and the started it to check how it was. What if you get it to stick to the floor and then unbolt the MC from the booster and see if the MC piston is stuck inside or if the booster/pedal assembly is giving you issues. Sounds like fluid is just not returning correctly. Has it been having the issue with only this MC?
Yeah I know yours works well plumbed the other way, the way mine was plumbed and I switched it.
I first power bled (last night) with the truck off. Then I manually bled with the truck running and the wife doing the pedal work today at lunch.
Interesting idea, I would need to leave the truck running because the pedal will return in about 20-30 seconds after the truck is shut off. Or if I disconnect the vacuum is return immediately.
No, it's done it with 2 master cylinders now. I installed a 2nd new MS last night.
Cliffs:
I basically started this build with a new master cylinder and booster, all new 3/16" brake lines and wilwood PPV. Axles, brakes are stock from the last truck and untouched. Shortly after starting the truck, in fact I believe it was on the first drive the pedal stuck to the floor. That's when I swapped the outputs on the master cylinder thinking they were backwards. No change so I swapped boosters and that fixed the pedal problem, even drove the truck camping (5-6 hours on the road/trail). Swap out the rear drums for disks and it's doing it again. That leads me up to yesterday when I swapped master cylinders again.
So weird that its done it with multiple MCs and boosters. There has got to be a common issue but then the trail ride in the middle with no issues is another weird thing. I have never messed with the vacuum or check valve. Always had everything stock. Is there any thing to go on there since you said it comes back with vacuum removed or truck shut off.
The check valve is on the booster, it's new and came with the first new booster. I checked that it's working properly. I've also tried two different vacuum sources, one on the FiTech and direct ported manifold vacuum.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
maybe your cam is TO BIG....#realmanproblems
I wish
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Oh, I'm sorry, your inflicted by small cam syndrome. Must be hard to face the wife.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Oh, I'm sorry, your inflicted by small cam syndrome. Must be hard to face the wife.
They make a little blue bottle to help with that...
Ok I'm done. Thank you very much Ladies and gents....
Oh, I'm sorry, your inflicted by small cam syndrome. Must be hard to face the wife.
Sounds like you understand the humiliation well
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Lol. I have some stock cams, I don't like to talk about them.
Curious if when the pedal sticks, that opening a bleeder or line somewhere in the system may/may not cause the pedal to return.
I was to understand the theory that the pedal is returning only when the fluid is returning.
That is barring any issues deeming multiple booster failures
I was to understand the theory that the pedal is returning only when the fluid is returning.
That is barring any issues deeming multiple booster failures
I would be surprised if the pedal would return, simply because the only way the pedal has returned is when the vacuum source is removed. It would be interesting to do what @Truckman4life suggested and remove the master when it's stuck on the floor so the booster itself is separated from everything but vacuum and the pedal. I would be able to tell if the master returned as well......I'll probably try this before I go removing the brake lines again and testing volume from the two MS ports.
Hey skunked, check this out.
So the pedal/booster will get stuck without the MS installed. I have to hold the pedal near the floor for 7-10 seconds for it to stay.
Is there supposed to be a pedal return spring under the dash that you are missing. Sounds like the return spring in the booster can't overcome vacuum to return the pedal.
