thanks.
Melling 10774 pump
Melling 305S pickup
Summit Racing SUM-G3533 oil pan
Fel Pro 1884R one pice rubber gasket
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
thanks.
Melling 10774 pump
Melling 305S pickup
Summit Racing SUM-G3533 oil pan
Fel Pro 1884R one pice rubber gasket
And you tacked it with a wire feed?
Good info man! I would like to update my pump on my 454... you are the test mule! Lol!
yep, two tacks with my mig. Pretty simple installation, just time consuming with all the crossmembers, exhaust and skid plates that I had to remove.
Dropping the oil pan vehicle is definitely and "embrace the suck" job. None of it is really difficult, just time consuming.
The last two months have been pretty crappy between all the city slickers taking over the forest, the hot ass weather and the fires/smoke shutting down our forests/trails and limiting our outdoor activity. As of Saturday, some of the forests are back open along with the trails so I've been busy with repairs and maintenance on the truck so I can get back on the trail.
1) D60 hub bearings and seals.
After one of my trips I noticed oil dripping from my drivers side hub and found the 6 bolts holding the lockout were a little loose so I tightened them up. Shortly thereafter I was on a trail run and went to lock the hubs however I was unable to lock either hub, the dials would not turn by hand. So I grabbed a allen wrench loosened them up slightly and they locked fine. After they were in the locked position I cinched the bolts back down to keep the water out. I wheeled all weekend and had to loosen them again to unlock them before driving home. After some research I found some information about the bearings tolerances changing and allowing the stub shaft to rub on the cover therefore a decision was made to tear down the hubs for an inspection and likely replace the bearings, races and seals.
Heres a couple pics of the oil substance leaking from the hubs that I assumed was a combo of beraing grease and water.
This is what I found when I popped the DS hub off.
Note the shaft wear on the inside of the lockout.
So I ran and picked up some bearings, races, seals and ran the lockouts and hubs through the parts washer.
Old races removed, new races installed along with new bearings & seals.
The spindles were de-greased along with a little emory cloth treatment and the hubs/lockouts were reinstalled.
1) D60 hub bearings and seals.
After one of my trips I noticed oil dripping from my drivers side hub and found the 6 bolts holding the lockout were a little loose so I tightened them up. Shortly thereafter I was on a trail run and went to lock the hubs however I was unable to lock either hub, the dials would not turn by hand. So I grabbed a allen wrench loosened them up slightly and they locked fine. After they were in the locked position I cinched the bolts back down to keep the water out. I wheeled all weekend and had to loosen them again to unlock them before driving home. After some research I found some information about the bearings tolerances changing and allowing the stub shaft to rub on the cover therefore a decision was made to tear down the hubs for an inspection and likely replace the bearings, races and seals.
Heres a couple pics of the oil substance leaking from the hubs that I assumed was a combo of beraing grease and water.
This is what I found when I popped the DS hub off.
Note the shaft wear on the inside of the lockout.
So I ran and picked up some bearings, races, seals and ran the lockouts and hubs through the parts washer.
Old races removed, new races installed along with new bearings & seals.
The spindles were de-greased along with a little emory cloth treatment and the hubs/lockouts were reinstalled.
Next project was the bent tie-rod that was bent multiple times in various directions 
I picked up another ruffstuff from @NorCalAnthony that he didn't need and reused my TRE's that were fairly new with the ORD kevlar boots.
bent vs straight
no fancy tig here @AgDieseler
and I ditched the clamp style assist bracket for some simple tabs. After all the issues with the clamp I don't see the point of it assuming you know how to set it up correctly. The tabs btw are a modified set of D60 shock tabs from @cybrfire that contour to the D60 knuckle. Just had to trim them and bore the holes out to 5/8".
I picked up another ruffstuff from @NorCalAnthony that he didn't need and reused my TRE's that were fairly new with the ORD kevlar boots.
bent vs straight
no fancy tig here @AgDieseler
and I ditched the clamp style assist bracket for some simple tabs. After all the issues with the clamp I don't see the point of it assuming you know how to set it up correctly. The tabs btw are a modified set of D60 shock tabs from @cybrfire that contour to the D60 knuckle. Just had to trim them and bore the holes out to 5/8".
Looks good dude! And damn that tie rod was tired
The thing I’ve liked about the clamp has been the ability to service a bent tie rod in the field. However, I’ve never damaged one so severely that I couldn’t adjust it, but I have slipped the clamp more than once. I’m pretty sure I’ll make the change along with you.
Also, very nice looking welds.
David
Also, very nice looking welds.
David
What about just welding simple stops on the tie rod to keep the clamp from sliding back and forth but still leaving it removable.
Sure was. I can't remember if this was my original one or not. I've replaced a couple others for friends so my recollection is crappy.
The problem with the clamp was it slipped and or lost bolts so it was a constant maintenance item so I put a couple welds on it. As it sits now, one bolt is missing and 2 others are missing heads from rocks so they would need to be drilled out. FWIW- One revolution of the tie rod is 1/8" of toe so it's pretty easily adjusted within those restrictions. Or you can pop a tie rod off the knuckle and get the 1/16" toe adjustment.
Nice work! I though I was the only one left still running a stock placement tie-rod.
That wouldn't last one trail run with me, too much driving by braille
Stock placement = no high steer tie-rod. Keep thinking of doing this in the future but so many other things to upgrade still.
I'm running the old Rock Stomper tie-rod. Its double sleeved but I'm sure its bendable with enough force.
I'm running the old Rock Stomper tie-rod. Its double sleeved but I'm sure its bendable with enough force.
I added a set screw to one of the clamp halves, and I haven't had any trouble with it moving in 6 years.
yeah I had to lay a couple beads on either side to keep it from moving.
Stock placement = no high steer tie-rod. Keep thinking of doing this in the future but so many other things to upgrade still.
I'm running the old Rock Stomper tie-rod. Its double sleeved but I'm sure its bendable with enough force.
I read that wrong, I thought you had a stock tie-rod. That looks like a beefy tie-rod for sure and IIRC the ORD one is pretty beefy too. I have the parts for hi-steer but I'm not looking forward to the clearance issues with the BBC. Maybe a winter project.....
Maybe it's the clamp I used (ballistic), either way I don't see the point of them in hindsight.
next up:
3) Bent spring plates
4) Replace bump stops (driveshaft was self clearancing the exhaust at full bump)
5) FUSH bushings
Earlier this year I replaced the springs (new 52's up front/used 57's out back) and put new bushings in the 57's. I noticed the ruffstuff spring plates were bending and I've struggled with springs coming loose. Ruffstuff dion't have any D60 plates in stock so I used what I had on it and did a couple more trail runs. One of my ideas was to stack plates so they stopped bending and I noticed @America.Mike did that on his K5. I went ahead and bought a couple ruffstuff D60 U-bolt/plate kits and burned them together. I also had to add the square tubing for my bump pads to land on.
also used new WFO ubolt studs since the new ones I just installed were bent already from the bent plates.
Installed with new bump stops, plates an u-bolts/studs
old bumps
3) Bent spring plates
4) Replace bump stops (driveshaft was self clearancing the exhaust at full bump)
5) FUSH bushings
Earlier this year I replaced the springs (new 52's up front/used 57's out back) and put new bushings in the 57's. I noticed the ruffstuff spring plates were bending and I've struggled with springs coming loose. Ruffstuff dion't have any D60 plates in stock so I used what I had on it and did a couple more trail runs. One of my ideas was to stack plates so they stopped bending and I noticed @America.Mike did that on his K5. I went ahead and bought a couple ruffstuff D60 U-bolt/plate kits and burned them together. I also had to add the square tubing for my bump pads to land on.
also used new WFO ubolt studs since the new ones I just installed were bent already from the bent plates.
Installed with new bump stops, plates an u-bolts/studs
old bumps
Glad that tie rod went to good use 
On the last fordyce run I smashed the shit out the passenger side front fender and bent the bumper again on WH1. The bumper was bent enough that @Chevk587 and myself had to bend it out (hi-lift) and keep it off the tire so I could finish WH1. I should have added supports for the bumper corners long ago so I went ahead and did that after bending it some more.
Damage from WH1 (after we bent the bumper off the tire)
new support
the radiator support was bent so I had to massage that back into place too.
I saw a squarebody hit the local pick n pull so I ran over and scored this.
After some trimming, paint and a badge it looks pretty good IMO.
I need to track down a piece of trim, reinstall that along with the LED light and bezel but it's pretty much done. I also need to add the same bumper support on the drivers side at some point too.
Damage from WH1 (after we bent the bumper off the tire)
new support
the radiator support was bent so I had to massage that back into place too.
I saw a squarebody hit the local pick n pull so I ran over and scored this.
After some trimming, paint and a badge it looks pretty good IMO.
I need to track down a piece of trim, reinstall that along with the LED light and bezel but it's pretty much done. I also need to add the same bumper support on the drivers side at some point too.
You need to have a set screw in the clamp.
Does yours have one?
On the last fordyce run I smashed the shit out the passenger side front fender and bent the bumper again on WH1. The bumper was bent enough that @Chevk587 and myself had to bend it out (hi-lift) and keep it off the tire so I could finish WH1. I should have added supports for the bumper corners long ago so I went ahead and did that after bending it some more.
Damage from WH1 (after we bent the bumper off the tire)
new support
the radiator support was bent so I had to massage that back into place too.
I saw a squarebody hit the local pick n pull so I ran over and scored this.
After some trimming, paint and a badge it looks pretty good IMO.
I need to track down a piece of trim, reinstall that along with the LED light and bezel but it's pretty much done. I also need to add the same bumper support on the drivers side at some point too.
That looks MUCH Better!
Time to go back lolOn the last fordyce run I smashed the shit out the passenger side front fender and bent the bumper again on WH1. The bumper was bent enough that @Chevk587 and myself had to bend it out (hi-lift) and keep it off the tire so I could finish WH1. I should have added supports for the bumper corners long ago so I went ahead and did that after bending it some more.
Damage from WH1 (after we bent the bumper off the tire)
new support
the radiator support was bent so I had to massage that back into place too.
I saw a squarebody hit the local pick n pull so I ran over and scored this.
After some trimming, paint and a badge it looks pretty good IMO.
I need to track down a piece of trim, reinstall that along with the LED light and bezel but it's pretty much done. I also need to add the same bumper support on the drivers side at some point too.
