I like them both for different reasons.. This is my don't mess it up its a clean slate truck.. the other is the go for it might as well truck..
CK5
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84 K20 "Ethel" Not an Sbc/NV4500/241C
- Thread starter sreidmx
- Start date
Semi restoration of a 1984 K20 pickup.
5.3 LS, nv4500, np241c.
Ok thinking about this from the standpoint of not "wasting time". There are some "unknowns" which concern me,
headgaskets
compression
valve seals
block integrity
clutch
some of lighting system
a/c system is unknown besides the compressor is not seized and its not charged(possible leak)
tires
shocks
I know these things
it runs and drives
every gear works
4wd works
brakes work ok not grea
temp gauge
speedo works
volt gauge seems to work
blower motor works
headights work but are pointed down
fuel filter housing leaks
some injectors are leaking either from return hoses or the copper washer
water pump is doa
charging system works
oil pan is dented at the sump
I honestly dont know if replacing the oil pan and water pump is so much work that maybee its worth it to prep to yank the motor reseal it completely and check it over just to know... I cant help but wonder about the timing chain and block, those two items if either are worn out because of the miles or if the block is cracking.. I really dont want to discover that later on..
From the looks of it the water pump is a pretty simple deal like a sbc??? 2-3 hours?
Should I just toss a pump on it and not worry so much about the pan? It doesn't leak and the engine has the normal leaks from anything that age but nothing bad or alarming??
Need some feed back here?
headgaskets
compression
valve seals
block integrity
clutch
some of lighting system
a/c system is unknown besides the compressor is not seized and its not charged(possible leak)
tires
shocks
I know these things
it runs and drives
every gear works
4wd works
brakes work ok not grea
temp gauge
speedo works
volt gauge seems to work
blower motor works
headights work but are pointed down
fuel filter housing leaks
some injectors are leaking either from return hoses or the copper washer
water pump is doa
charging system works
oil pan is dented at the sump
I honestly dont know if replacing the oil pan and water pump is so much work that maybee its worth it to prep to yank the motor reseal it completely and check it over just to know... I cant help but wonder about the timing chain and block, those two items if either are worn out because of the miles or if the block is cracking.. I really dont want to discover that later on..
From the looks of it the water pump is a pretty simple deal like a sbc??? 2-3 hours?
Should I just toss a pump on it and not worry so much about the pan? It doesn't leak and the engine has the normal leaks from anything that age but nothing bad or alarming??
Need some feed back here?
Don't worry about the unknowns. If you start tearing the engine apart it will be a loooooong time before you get it back together. M.A.W. will set in if you let it. IMO, the oil pan is a bit of a headache, I spent 7 hours doing mine, not sure if that's slow or fast. It also cannot be removed without moving the block away from the front axle. I was able to do this by jacking up the frame, but it just barely worked, and I have the tranny out at the moment (pictures in my CUCV thread, just finished it a couple days ago). My manual says to pull the fan shroud and hoist up the front of the engine (while being careful to not put the fan through the radiator).
Water pump is simple enough, make sure you get the right one for your year, there are a couple of reverse-direction water pumps that are used on serpentine engines. Fix the fuel leaks, calibrate the headlights, and run it. If you're worried about the compression, check it. Head gaskets...you'd probably know if you had any of the symptoms (oil/coolant mixing or combustion gasses in the coolant).
If you wanna do some general maintenance, check the timing set when you pull the water pump, and change the harmonic balancer while you have the belts off. If that's not enough, a new set of injectors is a good idea. But I'd hold off on serious stuff until your other truck is done. Nothing worse than having them both down at the same time for months on end...
So this happened today.. I got tired of swapping batteries and charging me back up. So I just bit the bullet and got two 1000cca batteries from napa, their 880 @32f. Kind of funny, I was dicking with it this morning for 45mins trying to just move it to the other side of my yard.. So I said screw it and dropped a few bills on these, I bet it's never spun over that fast in its entire life! It lit in prob 5 revolutions of the motor..
I got my ck5 shirt in, super comfy, I gotta get me a couple more.
I got my ck5 shirt in, super comfy, I gotta get me a couple more.
Since you are in the spending mood I have a few requests...
Hahah you guys crack me up.. I have a few rigs that need spending still. When I get done if there is any left I'll let you know.
Haha what a guy!
It's really hard to drive and film and shift.. Don't judge me and my no clutch shifts..
Peel out burn rubber MERICA.
Ill try to get a one tire fire video!
I love that sound. Makes me smile every time.
Also, those shifts sound find for a tranny with gear spacings wide enough to hide a bus inside of.
I got to agree for being stock it does sound good. I wonder if the clutch fan from my sbc would work on this?? Anyone know? It's a hd unit and comes on around 180-195deg
MPS is in full force around here.. Got up early sat cleaned up the house, the yard and garage some. Had the wife a party sat and the whole family came so that was cool.. Aside my uncles talking crap on my 6.2 freaking saying it was a converted diesel?? Wtf I made sure to inform them.. But they got the jump on me. They unplugged my batteries and my glow plug relay so it took me and @secutright a few before I realized what was going on.
I got a nice morning with the mrs antiquing.. We were laughing because if we won the lotto we wouldn't be buying anything new, just a bunch of old stuff lol.. I found this about 1/2 through the man stores we stopped at.. If someone wants it Pm me and I'll go get it..
After we found a few cool things like some old lanterns and some barn related stuff we made it home around 3pm. I got a little bit to work out my tail light issues with the help of my clymers manual I fixed the tail lights and turn signals. I also crawled under the truck and found a few chaffed wires that I recovered up, I also found the tcase wiring is there but the Trans plug is gone.. Rats so that just means I don't have reverse lights. Not the end of the world really. I'm not 100% sure my tank is switching or not, I have the dreaded 3/4 tank regardless of the level syndrome. I also discovered that my clutch pushrod wore through the socket on the linkage.. I might just weld a dimpled plate on there or make a new linkage with small Heims.. I know maybe overkill but I bet it would feel nice..
I also saw that the rear main leaks some, not sure if tightening the bolts will fix that or not.
I got a nice morning with the mrs antiquing.. We were laughing because if we won the lotto we wouldn't be buying anything new, just a bunch of old stuff lol.. I found this about 1/2 through the man stores we stopped at.. If someone wants it Pm me and I'll go get it..
After we found a few cool things like some old lanterns and some barn related stuff we made it home around 3pm. I got a little bit to work out my tail light issues with the help of my clymers manual I fixed the tail lights and turn signals. I also crawled under the truck and found a few chaffed wires that I recovered up, I also found the tcase wiring is there but the Trans plug is gone.. Rats so that just means I don't have reverse lights. Not the end of the world really. I'm not 100% sure my tank is switching or not, I have the dreaded 3/4 tank regardless of the level syndrome. I also discovered that my clutch pushrod wore through the socket on the linkage.. I might just weld a dimpled plate on there or make a new linkage with small Heims.. I know maybe overkill but I bet it would feel nice..
I also saw that the rear main leaks some, not sure if tightening the bolts will fix that or not.
Sounds like a good day! About 3 years ago I would have snagged that manual up in a heartbeat to take on a job fixing a bus with a driptroit.
1 - Who goes around disconnecting batteries and GP relays? That's not exactly family fun there...
2 - if your tank valve is like mine, you can hear it operate. The switch sends a pulse of a given polarity to a magnetic valve that slides back and forth, connecting the fuel line one way or the other. Sending a pulse with reversed polarity sends the slide back the other way. Super simple tech. This same mechanism also connects the wires, so if the valve fails to cycle the wires won't switch either (this is unlike what Ford did with their trucks of this era). Here's a schematic from the interwebz (which matches what I found when I rebuilt my rig 5 or 6 years ago).
3/4-tank is not open circuit (that's about 5/4 tank) nor closed circuit (Empty). So I think the sending unit that you have selected is probably faulty.
Figure out whether the switch is cycling before you start worrying. If the gauge never moves, it's probably not switching between the tanks. The valve sits just in front of the passenger-side fuel tank, above a little heatshield/skidplate/rockguard (follow the fuel lines). You should be able to hear/feel it clunking when the switch is depressed firmly (lightly flipping it won't do anything).
Lemme know if you have any questions. I never bothered reinstalling my rock guard, so I have clean access for a picture if you wind up needing one.
And if you become an expert on this, I still have an electrical gremlin in my fuel gauge circuit that never was resolved. Would be interested to see what CK5 thinks of that...
Mine won't switch all the way. Pumps come on though. Any of you electro-nerd-magician types have ideas, let me know1 - Who goes around disconnecting batteries and GP relays? That's not exactly family fun there...
2 - if your tank valve is like mine, you can hear it operate. The switch sends a pulse of a given polarity to a magnetic valve that slides back and forth, connecting the fuel line one way or the other. Sending a pulse with reversed polarity sends the slide back the other way. Super simple tech. This same mechanism also connects the wires, so if the valve fails to cycle the wires won't switch either (this is unlike what Ford did with their trucks of this era). Here's a schematic from the interwebz (which matches what I found when I rebuilt my rig 5 or 6 years ago).
3/4-tank is not open circuit (that's about 5/4 tank) nor closed circuit (Empty). So I think the sending unit that you have selected is probably faulty.
Figure out whether the switch is cycling before you start worrying. If the gauge never moves, it's probably not switching between the tanks. The valve sits just in front of the passenger-side fuel tank, above a little heatshield/skidplate/rockguard (follow the fuel lines). You should be able to hear/feel it clunking when the switch is depressed firmly (lightly flipping it won't do anything).
Lemme know if you have any questions. I never bothered reinstalling my rock guard, so I have clean access for a picture if you wind up needing one.
And if you become an expert on this, I still have an electrical gremlin in my fuel gauge circuit that never was resolved. Would be interested to see what CK5 thinks of that...
Rear main is exactly like a 2 piece sbc rear main seal.
