CK5
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84 K20 "Ethel" Not an Sbc/NV4500/241C
- Thread starter sreidmx
- Start date
Semi restoration of a 1984 K20 pickup.
5.3 LS, nv4500, np241c.
Yeah, I saw that...I was just curious cause the factory early NV4500 bell housings work just fine (assuming going to run hydro clutch setup) and I see so many people not doing it. So I was curious.
Oh, and I think I answered my question on the 32 spline SM465 question:
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual/sm465
http://www.advanceadapters.com/tech-vault/2-gm-sm465-/
Yeah, I saw that...I was just curious cause the factory early NV4500 bell housings work just fine (assuming going to run hydro clutch setup) and I see so many people not doing it. So I was curious.
Oh, and I think I answered my question on the 32 spline SM465 question:
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual/sm465
http://www.advanceadapters.com/tech-vault/2-gm-sm465-/
Pretty sure i misread your question now, whoops. Always more to learn about how/why these things are being put together the way they are.
No worries. IMO, when looking at the NV4500 swap (once again, assuming using hydro clutch setup), the 92-95 years I would just keep the NV4500 bell and adapt the hyrdro line from the 4500 slave to the square body master cylinder. Everyone always "assumes" that it won't work cause the slave is low on the passenger side and they "assume" the front driveshaft will interfere with it. But I installed mine on my crew cab when it was in stock form, and for driving around on the street, it wouldn't have contacted it at all. "Maybe" if it was flexed out hard in stock form it would have touched, but not just driving around on the road. I now have a 3" lift in the front and it will never touch now. If going with a 96+ NV4500, then I would do the AA bell for sure as those years were internal slave. The AA bell is an awesome piece for sure and very high quality, but very expensive too
Knowing what I know now I would have used the early nv4500 bellhousing and internal slave this would have bolted up and I could have forgotten about it.
The only concern I had initially was that it would hit. I’m not sure it would but it might with coilovers which will be on here sometime.
It had a 6.2/465/208 stock but the 208 was cracked so I went 241c or else I would still be rocking the 208.
The only concern I had initially was that it would hit. I’m not sure it would but it might with coilovers which will be on here sometime.
It had a 6.2/465/208 stock but the 208 was cracked so I went 241c or else I would still be rocking the 208.
Cool beans!
This is such a cool truck...glad you are keeping it 3 pedal (for the time being)
What are they charging for the AA bell now? I got mine for about $325 ten years ago...I thought that was reasonable money.
When I looked just over a year ago on my swap it was over $400 for everything not including shipping. And since I had the factory 95 bell and it was in good shape...I decided to be cheaper and use it instead....and honestly, for my scenario its worked out better. I recognize though that its not for everyone and in some cases the AA bell works better (and even though it didnt work out in this thread, I’ve seen the drilled SM465 bell work fine too)
It was 420$ and if I had to do it again I’d keep the oem bell..
Thanks man!! I’ve been educated quite a bit, but it’s really hard even more so that I got the new muff and damn it sounds bad ass.. just like a muscle car.. lolCool beans!
This is such a cool truck...glad you are keeping it 3 pedal (for the time being)
I had good luck with the AA bell installing a '95 NV4500 behind a 6.2 in my old 81 Jimmy. The only issue I had was the 28MT gear reduction starter nose did not fit and I had to do some buffing, sanding etc inside that area of the bell to make it fit. I did use all the AA parts for the hydro clutch too, so perhaps more matched parts was better? Either way, I felt at the time it was a value and solved many issues well enough.
If I pull it apart some time I’ll check again just to see but I think I just have crap luck, @Babaganoosh and @Rat_Crispy both know exactly what I mean..
Dang it Steve... you’re making me nervous! I hope mine works right.
Yay for crap luck hahah.
Hey I thought mine was totally good, how would you check without running it in something first??
Anyone know why my heater might not retain heat? It’s flowing air just fine but it feels lukewarm at best.. I kinda wonder if the ls just runs too cool maybe?? Or the water is flowing to fast to transfer the heat??
Are your heater hoses hooked up correctly? Have you checked hose temps with a temp gun to see what's going on?
Yea the hoses match the oem size and location from the engine to the heater core. I’ll check the hose temps. I gotta get one of those thermometers.
I doubt it's the LS running too cool, unless you have the wrong thermostat installed (or none at all). I believe they are supposed to run at 195*. Mine heats up just fine and blows plenty hot.
