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84 K20 "Ethel" Not an Sbc/NV4500/241C

Semi restoration of a 1984 K20 pickup. 5.3 LS, nv4500, np241c.
Gold bolts usually mean grade 8 or if they are metric try to get 10.9 since they are equivalent to grade 8. An 8.8 bolt is gonna be weaker like grade 5.

The color usually has nothing to do with bolt grade. the gold color is normally a zinc coating, CAT offers phosphate and oil coated which is what I normally go with. Helps my service truck has a nice bolt bin in it and sits in my driveway:whistle:
 
did it just break the bolts or did it do any damage to the mounting pad on the block? I've seen some 6.5 guys junk their blocks after throwing away the support bracket because "who needs that piece of crap." then wondering why they had 4 starters fly off
 
The color usually has nothing to do with bolt grade. the gold color is normally a zinc coating, CAT offers phosphate and oil coated which is what I normally go with. Helps my service truck has a nice bolt bin in it and sits in my driveway:whistle:
Yeah good thing cuz if you had to buy them from the Cat dealer then they really are "gold" plated. Lol
 
did it just break the bolts or did it do any damage to the mounting pad on the block? I've seen some 6.5 guys junk their blocks after throwing away the support bracket because "who needs that piece of crap." then wondering why they had 4 starters fly off

The block appears to be fine, I got lucky, I wonder what happened to the old bracket?? po must have felt the same..
 
The brace for the 27 MT and the 28 MT are different, so even if you had the original, you'd have to make a new brace for the new starter.
 
I didn't even explore the option because I figured tow and Ac seemed more attractive just in case anything else reared up.. I gotta really check this over closer.
 
No but I just got to thinking their stuff isn't rated for shear.. Prob wouldn't do me any good anyway. They're all about tensile ratings. I need to find some f911 bolts for this. Everyone swears by the stock stuff but for this if swear a 911 would be perfect.
 
Ok I'll make that.

Do you have a template for the mt28 brace? I made several out of a piece of angle iron, decided to make up an extra in case I ever needed another one. You have any interest in my extra one?

Assuming that I can find it, of course... :rolleyes:
 
I'm gonna drill one hole and bolt it up then I'll drill the other so it'll be custom fit.. I will let you know should that not work.
 
What is this brace you speak of? Post some pics when you get it done and on. I'll have to look at my 6.2 and see what you guys are talking about.
 
What is this brace you speak of? Post some pics when you get it done and on. I'll have to look at my 6.2 and see what you guys are talking about.

It bolts to the tail end of the starter and to the block, it's a pretty simple little brace that keeps the starter from ripping itself off the block.I'd take a picture but I'm not near our 6.5
 
It bolts to the tail end of the starter and to the block, it's a pretty simple little brace that keeps the starter from ripping itself off the block.I'd take a picture but I'm not near our 6.5
Just to support the weight of the starter I'm guessing.
 
To combat the excessive torque it takes to crank over an engine that has 21.5:1 compression versus like 8 or 9:1.
 
To combat the excessive torque it takes to crank over an engine that has 21.5:1 compression versus like 8 or 9:1.

Additionally, the 6.2 starters are held in by a pair of bolts running vertically. The starter has very little keeping it from kicking out sideways. And every time it does that it puts shear forces on the bolts and the block. And the deflection pushes the teeth away from the flywheel (can cause damage). Compare this to a starter with longitudinal bolts resisting the torque in the normal (pulling) direction, and the need for the brace makes more sense.
 

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