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84 K20 "Ethel" Not an Sbc/NV4500/241C

Semi restoration of a 1984 K20 pickup. 5.3 LS, nv4500, np241c.
Alright, Ethel has been the faithful steed lately! Just been stacking the miles on her, even in this crazy heat she has zero probs running down the road st 60-70mph, I have gotten a little more comfortable with that because the rpm does not seem to matter, she just chugs along.
I've had this little bit of a bump at idle and I thought it was missing or somethin but the more I listen the more I think the governor is adjusting for the idle.. Not 200% sure about that and I haven't gone and started cracking injectors to trace this down. Heck it could be that I am hearing things too because it's just a little shaky at idle but the rest of the time this is very smooth, smoke is not bad at all even on cold starts or warm ones. Mileage seems right for the speed and how I drive it. 16-18mpg consistently.
It could be less than that because my odometer readings are off due to large tires and watching the speedo swing wildly between 55-85 and my gps saying I was doing 69 when the speedo says 85 is hilarious.. Lol optimism!
But based on what I see is used fuel wise and my estimated miles plus 8% because of the tire size difference. So it could be as low as 15mpg but that's awesome considering if get 7-8 maybe if I was lucky in my k5.

Moving on..
Upon bolt checking my transfer case and Trans I found that all 4 crossmember bolts were loose!! Oops! So I tightened those. I also found my driveshaft bolts had one escape and the other three were on their way, so I tightened those up. Tried to get steering slop reduced but my box is trashed and I found some broken tooth in the flow valve on my pump which is why it was so bad at low speeds trying to turn, I cleared that out and adjusted my pressure by removing the shim in the valve and stretching the bypass spring out to 2.5 inches. Which helped braking assist and steering at low speed. I still have issues with the pump kicking back but I think it's so far gone it doesn't matter anymore.. On the road it drives fine so I'll change the box and pump asap.. Friday probally

I also attempted to advance the pump timing some but the damn thing would not slide that direction at all so I left it and did not touch the fuel settings even though I really wanted to.
I got a turbo from a friend for free and it's off his 06 cummins, he351cw but from my reading it'll be kinda hard to control boost with the small housing, I do not want to lift the heads of I can avoid it.. So I am trading @secutright his H1C that's non waste gated off his 12 valve and based on my research that'll work better anyway because of the 18cm housing. I'm not after low end much anyway, mid and up is where it really struggles. Plus I'm thinking if I get the fuel set so it doesn't absolutely melt itself while towing I'll be happy.. Unloaded if it'll pull a good grade at 55 or 60 I'm stoked..
We'll see in the coming weeks how she holds up. More wheeling to come! @bergerking is gonna be finishing up his coils this weekend hopefully so we gotta test it out and Ethel is always the tag along. Pretty much idles up whatever you want..
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Glad to hear it's doing well. I also have a free turbo off an 06 cummins that I was curious about using when I upgrade to a 6.5L some day.
 
Awesome!

I've had this little bit of a bump at idle and I thought it was missing or somethin but the more I listen the more I think the governor is adjusting for the idle.. Not 200% sure about that and I haven't gone and started cracking injectors to trace this down. Heck it could be that I am hearing things too because it's just a little shaky at idle but the rest of the time this is very smooth, smoke is not bad at all even on cold starts or warm ones. Mileage seems right for the speed and how I drive it. 16-18mpg consistently.

Don't worry too much about rattles and bumping. This is a rattly engine. Yes, the governor will adjust the idle, but it shouldn't need to unless you are sucking air into the fuel lines. If it surges and won't hold a steady idle, start looking for leaking fuel lines (the ones on the vacuum side of the pump if it's happening while running).


I found some broken tooth in the flow valve on my pump which is why it was so bad at low speeds trying to turn, I cleared that out and adjusted my pressure by removing the shim in the valve and stretching the bypass spring out to 2.5 inches. Which helped braking assist and steering at low speed. I still have issues with the pump kicking back but I think it's so far gone it doesn't matter anymore..

Interesting. I have crummy steering at low speed, too, and I've never put much thought into it. I know the Suburban (with newly rebuilt pump) does not have this problem, so I figured the pump was worn out. But never took the thought any further than that.


Unloaded if it'll pull a good grade at 55 or 60 I'm stoked.

This should be very doable.
 
Checking the low speed problem is easy because it requires pulling the line off and the reservoir draining makes it messy, then use a 1 inch socket or wrench to remove the flow restrictor, all the 3/4 trucks had a 5/32 hole and the 1/2 tons get a 1/8th hole, the diameter makes the assist at idle greater the larger the hole. Mustang guys using hydroboost reduce this hole to make it feel better at speed and reduce the flow. The pressure is delt with by the metering valve, that's the one that looks like a piston, reducing the length of that and the internal stuff as well increase the pressure, from what I gather it's variable, but just doing those two mods made a huge difference even with the bad pump. Sorry if my terminology is off.
 
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Pressure left side with no shim and flow control on the right. Both holes in the pumps I have are 5/32
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Here's the guts. See on the right next to the ball bearing the washer for the stack height. I guess in reading this is the 1100-1200 psi and without its 13-1400 psi
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This is what is inside the piston and is the pressure bypass I think. There is a ton of articles on this, but what I decided was this was the same between the two pumps I had, one modified Lee pump and one stock hydroboost pump from an 85 k30 454
So the hydroboost pump had a shim between the body and that top nut on the right, it also had a tiny screen that was clogged so I cleaned that too.
Stretched the big spring out to 2.5 in and put it all back together. Bam done..
 
Mine was doing exactly that and still does just less. I have the two pumps apart at home which I am going to reseal, Ill take some pics when I do so, and what the new vs old one looks like to see if there is any obvious problems.
 
Sweet! My old 1977 one ton camper special 2wd had a 454 and hydroboost and you could spin the wheel with your pinky at idle sitting still like there was nothing there. I loved it. When I parted it out I kept the gear, pump and booster to use again when I do crossover. Ive heard of one or two other trucks having steering like that.
 
So.. this turbo deal.. I think I might try mounting it in the middle of the V behind the manifold.. isnt the Van turbo mounted this way? I know the majority of the big v8 diesels are like this. Ive gotta see if I can fit the two exhaust pipes up the back and clear the body.
 
So.. this turbo deal.. I think I might try mounting it in the middle of the V behind the manifold.. isnt the Van turbo mounted this way? I know the majority of the big v8 diesels are like this. Ive gotta see if I can fit the two exhaust pipes up the back and clear the body.

So basically where the vacuum pump is? Or the secondary fuel filter on the 82-83 rigs? That area is kinda tight, but it might be feasible. :thinking:

Where would you route the exhaust turbine's output?
 
I don't have a vaccum pump and my filter is on the wall where the stock box filter mounts but could easily move. And I'll route the down pipe out the passenger side wherever it fits lol!
 
I could too.. Might try it in mild steel then switch to stainless later if it works..
 

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