Vombrown
Mountain Man
OUCH! That stings...
CK5
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84 K20 "Ethel" Not an Sbc/NV4500/241C
- Thread starter sreidmx
- Start date
Semi restoration of a 1984 K20 pickup.
5.3 LS, nv4500, np241c.
OUCH! That stings...
Oreillys got me some BWD injectors with a lifetime warranty.
Rat_Crispy
1/2 ton status
The goddamn luck strikes again!!
:: shakes fist at sky::
DAMN YOUU!!!
:: shakes fist at sky::
DAMN YOUU!!!
Tell me about it.. I shoulda called you too so we could yak about how awesome and jinxed we are..
Soo there is a great potential that this was caused because I messed with a transient fuel table that is referenced during cranking. It is called “Impact factor” which from my reading can cause a weird condition where the afr target goes super rich at precisely the wrong time.. hence my 436m/sec pulsewidth on crank.. so the attempt to clear it out was futile when 40lbhr injectors are pushing 62 psi for almost a half sec many times over and over filling the cylinders... I also went back and checked my initial drain of oil/gas and the container i used is only 6qts so the most I could have pulled out was 5 in that and 3 in the other oil container i used. So not 13 qts like I thought. The second occurrence I pulled 7qts out of the crankcase.
I have not had a chance to verify this but as I read more I see how common this is. Changing injectors flow rates and getting transient fuel right without causing this weird issue requires starting from scratch..
I have not had a chance to verify this but as I read more I see how common this is. Changing injectors flow rates and getting transient fuel right without causing this weird issue requires starting from scratch..
So there's nothing wrong with the injectors, just tuning?
Yes that is what it seems
Well it’s been weeks since I fixed this, no sign of issues!
I’ve been towing and driving to work nonstop..
now I am on the hunt for AC stuff! We’re already into the 80s so I am gonna do this ASAP. I have an existing unknown install of a nostalgic a/c retrofit kit. All that is left is the evaporator and the control panel. Both of which I am not sure of.. the blower works really well and is quiet but I am not sure if the evap is or not and if there is some leaks. The other thing is if there are internal sealing rings in the evap box I am almost certain that would be compromised from the rats that lived in this thing and almost feel an entire system would be a better use of time and money. So how does everyone feel about the vintage air?? I see they have a digital layout now with no cables etc. considering I have a nostalgic air system now and I have the brackets etc with the holes drilled, that system would be drop in. Thoughts on this??
I’ve been towing and driving to work nonstop..
now I am on the hunt for AC stuff! We’re already into the 80s so I am gonna do this ASAP. I have an existing unknown install of a nostalgic a/c retrofit kit. All that is left is the evaporator and the control panel. Both of which I am not sure of.. the blower works really well and is quiet but I am not sure if the evap is or not and if there is some leaks. The other thing is if there are internal sealing rings in the evap box I am almost certain that would be compromised from the rats that lived in this thing and almost feel an entire system would be a better use of time and money. So how does everyone feel about the vintage air?? I see they have a digital layout now with no cables etc. considering I have a nostalgic air system now and I have the brackets etc with the holes drilled, that system would be drop in. Thoughts on this??
I run vintage air in all the cars I build. Never had a complaint.
My 72 has a vintage air unit in place of factory as well, works much better and much cleaner engine compartment.
I’ve never used their digitial readout, just factory cable conversion or the billet round knob switch panels. But work well and are easy to set up.
My 72 has a vintage air unit in place of factory as well, works much better and much cleaner engine compartment.
I’ve never used their digitial readout, just factory cable conversion or the billet round knob switch panels. But work well and are easy to set up.
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My 84 is an original ac truck so I hope to use the factory air components off the stock swap engine and cobble it with the factory controls in the truck which are all vacuum. Everyone I talk to about it seems to feel ac work is easy I've just never tried to hybrid a system so time will tell
Good to hear, I’ll go have a look at that thread too
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
My vintage air is awesome. all said and done it was just over $1600 dollars. The kit comes with everything but the, heater hoses, belt, and a LS style belt tensioner that you need to make the kwik compressor brackets work. A few bucks to get the hoses crimped and then get it serviced. No issues with it yet.
For your truck with the 8.1, you will need workhorse brackets for the front. The normal truck brackets put the A/C compressor low on the passenger side and it hits the frame. But once you have workhorse brackets, its just get some lines made up for off the compressor, then the rest of the system from the 84 should work fine
I'm the oddball here....
I took Vintage Air out of my '70 because it didn't keep the windows from fogging over in a rain storm, or in the winter. I also didn't like the noise from the blower.
Granted, I bought a system in 1998, but I like my truck much better since put factory style stuff back in.
I also didn't like the hose connections inside the cab.
I took Vintage Air out of my '70 because it didn't keep the windows from fogging over in a rain storm, or in the winter. I also didn't like the noise from the blower.
Granted, I bought a system in 1998, but I like my truck much better since put factory style stuff back in.
I also didn't like the hose connections inside the cab.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Mine isn't great at de-fogging the window on first startup. Once the engine is warm it has no problem keeping up.
Personally I don't see the difference of having the heater hose connection right at the firewall or way outside. Either way if the heater core goes its going to leak on the floor. A good hose and good hose clamp isn't likely to leak on a clean barb. The issue comes from used hoses, or corroded barbs.
My stock heater barely defogges the windows.. heck this morning I was struggling to see because of it. I like the ac dehumidifier setting.. that seems pretty effective in new vehicles.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
The vintage air will use the AC to dehumidify in defrost mode
Yes, but it still didn't get it. I winter, it was supposed to have the thermostat adjusted, which didn't help. My '90 works great, even uses the A/C compressor, so did the original system in my '70.
And I wasn't referring to the heater hoses leaking as much as how inconvenient it was to make the connections.
Like I said, I'm the oddball.... that truck has seen single digits to triple digit temps.
And my '90 does this in 95* temps .
Wow that is insane.. I’d think that would freeze the coil in humid days..
I don’t have an ac truck anyway.. I’m sure this will be good enough. It just has to be cold enough.. the heat is not as critical for my location.
I don’t have an ac truck anyway.. I’m sure this will be good enough. It just has to be cold enough.. the heat is not as critical for my location.
