CK5
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84 K20 "Ethel" Not an Sbc/NV4500/241C
- Thread starter sreidmx
- Start date
Semi restoration of a 1984 K20 pickup.
5.3 LS, nv4500, np241c.
MetalMulishaMarcus
1 Ton Status
They are talking about Dave on YouTube. His YouTube name is Dicks4x4. Hes been doing live videos with Steve on wednesdays and sundays.
Dave is a squarebody guy but has making his way into Heeps...I mean jeeps..lol...
Hi guys!! Thank you for sitting in on our shenanigans!!
Ordered this today for Ethel! I got 40+K out of my last set which I bought in 5/15 which I can’t belieeb!!
Pretty stoked because they look pretty damn good.
Pretty stoked because they look pretty damn good.
Weird find this weekend. Plugged in spare ecm and the bounce did not go away, so we’re thinking it might be a bad throttle body.. weird because I drove it 480 miles without a single issue and 100 miles of that was towing jakes blazer back to my house..
Huh?
No idea
Ethel got new shoos!! It amazing how much this helped the weebles and wobbles!
Computer still ain’t broke, tempted to run until it does.. or not?? I dunno lol
Computer still ain’t broke, tempted to run until it does.. or not?? I dunno lol
Thought you were leaning away from computation box because spare did the same thing?
Correct. Thinking TB but I’ve yet to swap it.. mainly because I’m lazy..
New TB seemed to have fixed whatever prob was happening, I’m not going to jinx it but I think it’s good.
Haven’t noticed anything weird since I put it on. I pulled the old one apart and couldn’t really find much that would cause the problem. So I am goin to assume the drive motor was going bad and creating excessive draw on the system. We’ll see how this holds up..
Haven’t noticed anything weird since I put it on. I pulled the old one apart and couldn’t really find much that would cause the problem. So I am goin to assume the drive motor was going bad and creating excessive draw on the system. We’ll see how this holds up..
So where's the burnout video?
Didn’t work.. stupid thing.. got limp mode parked in the spot at work just before I left for the day.. ordered a new pedal. I’m going to just start throwing parts at it.. next on the list is the harness..
What is the issue Steve? Your TPS is off?
No it is code p2138 http://autocats.ws/manual/chevrolet/tis0911/en/documents_2012/Cruze/SM-T/92293895.EN.html
Explained more in depth here. But I am going to recheck my harness and see if that results in something different. I’ve replaced the plug at the pedal, I ran all new wires from the ecu.. replaced the TB so I dunno what it could be at this point other than some weird back feeding or something I can’t see..
Replace the pedal, that's the common issue. I think you can also relearn the sensor as well but not sure how to do it with a swap?
Does it have a erratic idle or one that drops low then back up?
Does it have a erratic idle or one that drops low then back up?
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Nope the idle is solid, the pedal is the only thing I haven’t replaced.. hope it’s here tomorrow!
I relearned the TB when I replaced it.
Before you spend money on an app sensor check the wiring. I've seen our faith share of pedals fail here too, but I've seen just as many where it was a wiring issue too.
Two key points from the diagnosis is resistance on the circuits and the possibility of a short between app1 circuit and app2 circuit.
Resistance value for the three circuits to each sensor (low reference, signal and 5v) should be no greater than 5 ohms. High resistance will change your value and if the difference is high enough between app1 and app2 this code sets. This can be a wiring issue or poor connection at either end. We've seen fretting corrosion on terminals (white crusty stuff) that will effect the values. Cleaning the terminals and some dielectric grease usually corrects the corrosion.
Checking for continuity between any of the circuits is the second item to look for. There should be none.
If the circuits have good resistance and no continuity to each other, then replace the pedal.
Two key points from the diagnosis is resistance on the circuits and the possibility of a short between app1 circuit and app2 circuit.
Resistance value for the three circuits to each sensor (low reference, signal and 5v) should be no greater than 5 ohms. High resistance will change your value and if the difference is high enough between app1 and app2 this code sets. This can be a wiring issue or poor connection at either end. We've seen fretting corrosion on terminals (white crusty stuff) that will effect the values. Cleaning the terminals and some dielectric grease usually corrects the corrosion.
Checking for continuity between any of the circuits is the second item to look for. There should be none.
If the circuits have good resistance and no continuity to each other, then replace the pedal.
