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84 Shortbox-2wd to 4wd- Parts Trucks!

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toomany

toomany

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toomany submitted a new Build:

84 Shortbox-2wd to 4wd- Parts Trucks!

Have had the idea/itch to build a comfortable daily driver/do all truck for quite sometime. Something the wife isn't afraid to get in and go on a road trip. My K5 has become too much to daily drive, and the body is too nice to subject to the salt on the roads. I missed having the versatility of an open box truck and wanted that back as well. Having had all 3 wheel bases over the years I knew I wanted a short bed truck. I have been collecting parts for this for the past couple months, still need some of the big items though. Knowing how much I was going to be changing, I didn't care if I started with a 2wd or 4wd.

One of the requirements of this build is a nice ride quality, from the front and back. To get that in the rear I'll use 64's and up front I plan on coils and links. Either a 3 link or radius arms (keep an eye out for a separate thread in the Garage about this).

Tire size will be a 35 (already have) possibly going down to a 33. So not much lift, 3-4" maybe. After daily driving many tire sizes I feel that 33-35 is about the tallest you can go and still have good comfort/road manners/tire life/maneuverability.

Engine will be a standard SBC. Truck is currently carb'd, I'm looking for a TPI setup currently. If I fall into a good deal on an LS motor I may go that route. But I have 10+ small blocks sitting around so I may as well use them.

Trans/t-case is going to be a Nv3500/ drivers drop 241 (already have). I traded a parts truck for them. Trans has a fresh GM rebuild on it. Got a new clutch with it as well. I settled on this combo for a couple reasons....I have an Nv4500 too, (for the K5) but need a t-case for it. Pass side drop cases that will bolt up to it aren't too easy to find around here. So rather than trying to find 2 of them I'll only need one. The second reason is the front axle choice...

Ideal front axle will be a high pinion Dana44 from a Ford truck (trying to work out a deal on one right now). Don't really want to mess around making a drivers drop axle from a GM axle, even though I have enough parts to do it. I'll use Chevy outers on the Ford axle to get a 6 lug pattern. Have a flat top passenger side knuckle already to do the crossover steering, just needs machined.

Rear axle will be a 6lug SF 14bolt from a 88-98 truck. Moving perches/shock mounts is no big deal. May grab the springs from the same truck. I feel this will be more than enough for the rear. If I come across a matching D44/9", I'm not against using that and...
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Read more about this build here...

View attachment 230970
 
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Make sure you check out the other 2-4 conversions on here, it is a bunch of work.

I would find a 4wd and leave that one alone it is rather nice.
 
kgblazerfive said:
Make sure you check out the other 2-4 conversions on here, it is a bunch of work.

I would find a 4wd and leave that one alone it is rather nice.
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Mine was a two wheel drive...easy if you got a 4x4 frame.
But I see your point, making a 4x4 out of a two wheel frame would be a pain but I would do it to the right truck.
 
I pondered the 2-4 swap......lucked out and ended up with my 80 k10 to keep me from hacking up my old mans 77 when it becomes mine.


I dig that short box, love them rims. I remember when every one was running them around here.
 
It's a lot of work but it is doable, I did it with my current build because it was clean and rust free and I had all the brackets and running gear.
It's not just bolt on due to the front frame horns being different.
 
Bowtie85 said:
I pondered the 2-4 swap......lucked out and ended up with my 80 k10 to keep me from hacking up my old mans 77 when it becomes mine.


I dig that short box, love them rims. I remember when every one was running them around here.
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And your dad won't let you have it! :D
 
I understand everyones concern about leaving it alone....and I very well may. But on the other side of the coin, going with coils/links/drivers drop t-case....starting with a 4wd doesn't get me anywhere. The only thing that may interfere is the engine crossmember. I know it won't be a bolt on deal, and I looked for about 9 months for a 4wd before going with this one. Around here a solid starting truck cost $2500+. I can't justify spending that much only to rip out all the running gear and replace it with something else.
 
Changing all the stuff you are with the links and such it just changes where and how much your grinding.

Don't be afraid to cut the frame off if needed it's not that hard to rebuild part of the frame. And it's usually easier to start fresh than to hack at a stock frame
 
blazinzuk said:
Changing all the stuff you are with the links and such it just changes where and how much your grinding.

Don't be afraid to cut the frame off if needed it's not that hard to rebuild part of the frame. And it's usually easier to start fresh than to hack at a stock frame
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I was more/less saying paying the premium for a 4wd truck didn't make sense to me.

Cutting the frame off and running new was something I had thought about.
 
toomany said:
I understand everyones concern about leaving it alone....and I very well may. But on the other side of the coin, going with coils/links/drivers drop t-case....starting with a 4wd doesn't get me anywhere. The only thing that may interfere is the engine crossmember. I know it won't be a bolt on deal, and I looked for about 9 months for a 4wd before going with this one. Around here a solid starting truck cost $2500+. I can't justify spending that much only to rip out all the running gear and replace it with something else.
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I used the ORD engine cross member and some four wheel drive motor plates, check my build for pic's, I can get you more if you need.
 
kgblazerfive said:
My point was in cutting up a 2wd short bed. Not to many of those floating around in good shape.
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How many do you want, that's all we seem to have down here, only thing is that we don't have any rust that you guy's collect.
 
D Rat said:
I used the ORD engine cross member and some four wheel drive motor plates, check my build for pic's, I can get you more if you need.
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I've been checkin out a bunch of build threads for the last few months. Was planning on ORD or Diy4x parts.


kgblazerfive said:
My point was in cutting up a 2wd short bed. Not to many of those floating around in good shape.
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They're around here. Both two wheel and four wheel drive. They just comand a premium price for a clean one.


D Rat said:
How many do you want, that's all we seem to have down here, only thing is that we don't have any rust that you guy's collect.
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See above...not super rare. I just didn't want to start with a pile of rust.


kgblazerfive said:
I really want a 2wd Blazer, cheap. :haha:
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So do I. But a 2wd shortbox does not make a 2wd Blazer, still need to shorten the wheelbase. At that, you're just as far along starting with a long bed. Or swapping the suspension over to a 4wd model and removing the t-case. I've actually thought that doing a fullsize Typhoon would be sweet. Lowered 4wd, 4l6e, 203 (or modern all wheel drive case), boosted Lsx.
 
So I have decided on doing a 3 link w/pannhard for the front end. I have never designed a link suspension, so I have no idea where the numbers should land. Been reading for quite awhile about the design and theory behind it.

This is my fist attempt at coming up with something. First time using any of the link calculators. Now, it's 16* outside and I haven't been too motivated to go out and get any real exact measurements yet, so these are sure to change some. The only real measurements I've taken have been from my K5. I just want to see if I'm heading in the correct direction or setting myself up for failure.

At this point, I'm thinking I'd like my lowers to attach to a new transmission crossmember. Good or bad idea? Or I could do them right off of the frame, most likely under it. Who has done what and how did it work? What would you have changed?

Some things to keep in mind. Truck will be a daily driver, mild trails, sand dunes. Shooting for 3-4" of lift over stock 4wd height (clear 35's with very little trimming).

First crack at it, after figuring out what each value does. I want to say my links will end up shorter, (around 39" maybe?) was just using an eyeball measurement.

Critique my numbers and don't hold back on any advice...I can use all I can get. Sometime this weekend I'm going to make an effort to get the truck in the garage and up in the air at my ideal ride height, will pull some real numbers and decide on a final wheelbase.







This one I raised the link mounts a little.



 
Didn't get the truck in the garage, but I did get a few measurements. Figured out the ride height I want to achieve. I'm thinking that before I can get any real solid numbers, I'm going to have to get the Nv3500/241 in place. That'll let me see where the cross member ends up so I'm not trying to plan my lowers mounting in the same spot.

Took two quick pictures.




This is as high as my small jackstands would go, my big ones are holding up my Camaro. Truck would be 1-2" higher.




This is mostly for my benefit:

Bottom of frame at ideal ride height. 20"
Move front axle forward 1"---wheelbase 118.5
 
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