84 turbo diesel suburban

[imiceman44]

So yesterday I was not expecting the gasket set to be delivered so when it showed up at noon I had lunch and headed up to the truck.
It's at my buddy's place an hour away and I showed up and he's on the roof trying to figure something out.
I get up and he has a sag in between 2 slopes where water is collecting and seeping through leaking inside the house.
So I came up with a plan to overlay a slope from one side to make the low spot sloping towards a gutter.
So while he was getting the material I started to get more things ready.
I had found my pulley remover tool ( I don't think there's any small tool I don't have it just takes me forever to find them because my shop is so organized ) so I replaced the pulley and put the belts on, replaced the valve cover on the passenger side with the one with a return line for the oil from the turbo, then I cleaned the exhaust manifolds and decided to use gaskets since they were not as smooth as I would like.
I just want it driveable now so if I like everything I might go back and change the turbo and make a pass on the manifold and install with no gasket.
I went thru all the glow plugs I had from all the engines and none are the g60 but they all looked good so I installed the newest cleanest ones I had.
Access is not too bad so I couldn't get a new set later. I also wire brushed the exhaust manifolds bolts clean and installed the oil dipstick. By that time we lost the light so I called it a night.
Won't be back on it till Monday morning but my hope is that I stab the engine in and hopefully get started.
I put fuel treatment in for algae and added 15 gallons so fuel shoul be good.
I have 2 new batteries and a gear reduction starter so we'll see.

 

[imiceman44]

If you see yourself doing more power steering pumps in the future I highly recommend the snap-on puller and installer. I cussed some cheaper parts store ones before and having the new one makes the job a breeze. Sure it’s expensive but it was worth it to me

I have the harbor freight tool it was fine

 

[imiceman44]

I have always liked having tools and I always browse and if I see a tool that could be handy I buy it.
Bought this one 12 years ago and I used it yesterday

 

[Big Ray]

I have many unopened tools in my garage. that's a nice looking 'burb, I think it will clean up fine. Subscribed!

 

[eodcoduto]

Did it start?

 

[imiceman44]

Did it start?

Didn't get to it to finish, my helper up and left after the second day so I got the engine in by myself and connected the torque converter and I held two bolts on the transmission.
Nothing else was done since.
I did sell a couple of vehicles and a few parts in the meantime and got a little work driving.
When the weather calms down for a few days I will get to it.

 

[imiceman44]

So I started working on it again and I am really close to get it started and I need to get batteries.
I posted this in the gm diesel forum but I am looking at dual post batteries and found a good deal with marine batteries but only 550 cca.
Is 1100 going to be enough?
I have the gear reduction starter

 

[diesel4me]

I'd say yes,especially since your in CA where it probably doesn't get that cold...
I had two mis-matched Duralast batteries in my truck for 16 years and they were used batteries from a salvage yard when I bought it in 2003--one was smaller than the other,one was a "gold" and the other just a Duralast,both side posts,and they only failed to start the 6.2 a few times in frigid weather when I hadn't plugged in the block heater or put the charger on them after letting the truck sit long periods..

They finally died earlier this year,one that failed a load test was the "gold" battery,the other still holds a charge and passes a load test..
My truck now has a used group 78 Interstate on the passenger side and a smaller Duralast red top from a Chevy Cavalier a friend was scrapping ,that was less than a year old..

The engine whips over much stronger ,I put a gear reduction starter in it several years ago--it cranks a lot better in cold weather with thinner oil too--I usually run 15W-40 in it but the next oil change I think I'm going with 10W-30 diesel oil instead..(non-synthetic,I see no advantage to using that now,after its been run on regular oil for so long)..
I'd be careful using any 9G or other glow plugs that aren't AC 60G's--I have a few 9G's in my 6.2 ,because I had a few 60G's either fail or the tab for the wire rotted off ,but using 9G's with a push button can make them swell up and a bear to remove..
I need to test my glow plugs and see if all 7 are working still,now that it dropped to 20 degrees here last night.(one refuses to come out since day one,so I'm leaving it alone!)--.still have SAE 30 in it too,I'm hoping it'll start later on today when it may reach 40 degrees!..

 

[imiceman44]

I'd say yes,especially since your in CA where it probably doesn't get that cold...
I had two mis-matched Duralast batteries in my truck for 16 years and they were used batteries from a salvage yard when I bought it in 2003--one was smaller than the other,one was a "gold" and the other just a Duralast,both side posts,and they only failed to start the 6.2 a few times in frigid weather when I hadn't plugged in the block heater or put the charger on them after letting the truck sit long periods..

They finally died earlier this year,one that failed a load test was the "gold" battery,the other still holds a charge and passes a load test..
My truck now has a used group 78 Interstate on the passenger side and a smaller Duralast red top from a Chevy Cavalier a friend was scrapping ,that was less than a year old..

The engine whips over much stronger ,I put a gear reduction starter in it several years ago--it cranks a lot better in cold weather with thinner oil too--I usually run 15W-40 in it but the next oil change I think I'm going with 10W-30 diesel oil instead..(non-synthetic,I see no advantage to using that now,after its been run on regular oil for so long)..
I'd be careful using any 9G or other glow plugs that aren't AC 60G's--I have a few 9G's in my 6.2 ,because I had a few 60G's either fail or the tab for the wire rotted off ,but using 9G's with a push button can make them swell up and a bear to remove..
I need to test my glow plugs and see if all 7 are working still,now that it dropped to 20 degrees here last night.(one refuses to come out since day one,so I'm leaving it alone!)--.still have SAE 30 in it too,I'm hoping it'll start later on today when it may reach 40 degrees!..

Yeah I rarely see below 30 here and it's still above 25.
I didn't want to change the glow plugs for now I pulled them out and they look new.
They are autolite 1110 I think.
I might get some 60g or quick heat, but for now these worked for Colby, I will give them a chance

 

[diesel4me]

I dislike Autolite #1110's,I have a full set of them (used,not for long, but all good),and I tried using a few that were in a parts 6.2 I had that broke the crank (from a friends '87 C30 Ramp truck)--one day I was just putting along about 30 mph when suddenly the engine started rapping bad,like it had spun a bearing !--I was headed to the dump with a load of rubbish.

I stopped and listened to it rap for a minute--noise was loudest on the drivers side valve cover,I thought maybe a lifter or rocker arm had failed,but it wasn't skipping--and noticed it still had normal oil pressure,so I decided to limp it along to the dump a mile away,and the three miles home...when I got close enough to home to walk if it crapped out,I pulled it down into first gear and wound it up to the govenor limit three times--when I pulled in my driveway the engine was no longer rapping..

I pulled the glow plugs out on the drivers side,and only half of the Autolite one was still there !..it dropped half of the electrode into the cylinder I guess,and I assume it got blown out the exhaust,after it got crunched up small enough to get past the exhaust valve..

The engine had a noisy lifter sound after a cold start for a long time after that,which eventually quieted down after it warmed up to normal temperature..it doesn't seem to do it much any more,I guess maybe a push rod got a bend in it,or the lifter was wounded and took awhile to pump back up fully..

Anyways,I'm no fan of Autolite glow plugs--wont use Champions either,I had several of those fail within a few weeks use..the 60G's last quite a while,but I've had to replace more of them due to the wire connector's tabs rotting off long before they failed electrically --one winter I had alligator clips clamped to the remaining stubs on 3 of the glow plugs so I could get thru the winter with them!..the hex portion was so whittled away I had to pound a 9 mm socket on them in order to remove them,a 3/8" wouldn't even grab them any more..

 

[imiceman44]

So I have been finishing up the hook up for a couple of days and today I started pumping the fuel and purging the air out.
I finally got 5 cylinders verified having fuel.
Not sure if I have the glow plug controller working, I ran out of time so maybe tomorrow I will try bypassing it or just hit it with starting fluid with the glow plugs unplugged.
I just want it running to see what else is needing attention since I am down 2 vehicles and the last one is giving me some trouble.
Good news the engine is spinning smooth after sitting for 7 years.
I changed the oil and filter.
Anyway tomorrow I am hoping to get it started and then make a list of things to do before it's a reliable daily driver

 

[campfire]

So I have been finishing up the hook up for a couple of days and today I started pumping the fuel and purging the air out.
I finally got 5 cylinders verified having fuel.
Not sure if I have the glow plug controller working, I ran out of time so maybe tomorrow I will try bypassing it or just hit it with starting fluid with the glow plugs unplugged.
I just want it running to see what else is needing attention since I am down 2 vehicles and the last one is giving me some trouble.
Good news the engine is spinning smooth after sitting for 7 years.
I changed the oil and filter.
Anyway tomorrow I am hoping to get it started and then make a list of things to do before it's a reliable daily driver

That's a nice milestone. I would wire up the plugs, for 2 reasons. First, starting fluid is still a bad idea, even with plugs disconnected. Second, you'll need them anyways, so taking a "shortcut" with starting fluid will actually cost you more time in the long run. And not even the very long run, either. You'll need those plugs before this rig will be a useful vehicle. So go ahead and wire them up. With or without controller, as you please. But skipping that step won't save you any actual time.

 

[imiceman44]

That's a nice milestone. I would wire up the plugs, for 2 reasons. First, starting fluid is still a bad idea, even with plugs disconnected. Second, you'll need them anyways, so taking a "shortcut" with starting fluid will actually cost you more time in the long run. And not even the very long run, either. You'll need those plugs before this rig will be a useful vehicle. So go ahead and wire them up. With or without controller, as you please. But skipping that step won't save you any actual time.

I just want to confirm I have all the air out, once that is done I probably will wire the glow plugs to a switch.
By the way, if I don't have the oil pressure sender plugged, would it prevent the engine from starting?

 

[KirsL]

By the way, if I don't have the oil pressure sender plugged, would it prevent the engine from starting?

Nope, unless someone added one.

WD-40 is a much better and safer starting fluid to use. Have someone crank the engine while you spray it.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Congrats on the milestone! My vote is for bypassing the controller. Having mine on a manual switch has been one of the better projects I’ve done.

 

[campfire]

I just want to confirm I have all the air out, once that is done I probably will wire the glow plugs to a switch.
By the way, if I don't have the oil pressure sender plugged, would it prevent the engine from starting?

I hear ya. But if you've gotta wire them anyways, it's wasted time (and needless risk) messing around with starting fluid.

Having wires unplugged from the oil pressure sender will not affect engine operation. Not having the sender plugged into the block will mean oil spraying everywhere. I think you know that , but your question was worded vaguely.

 

[eodcoduto]

I agree, wiring up the plugs is a couple of hour job done in a tidy fashion and if you are going stock its a 20 minute job. Either kicks ass until it breaks something.

 

[imiceman44]

I hear ya. But if you've gotta wire them anyways, it's wasted time (and needless risk) messing around with starting fluid.

Having wires unplugged from the oil pressure sender will not affect engine operation. Not having the sender plugged into the block will mean oil spraying everywhere. I think you know that , but your question was worded vaguely.

You misunderstood me.
Glow plugs are wired in, and oil pressure sender is in but the wires are not plugged in it.
The glow plugs controller has a wire that is now connected but by disconnecting it it will not work.
I am not sure it is working now but I will take my tester and check when I turn the key on to see if it is pulling any power from the battery, if it is not, then I will wire the glow plugs to a switch.
Hopefully today I get some time between church in the morning and a wedding in the afternoon.

 

[imiceman44]

Today I tried to follow the glow plugs controller wiring and after a few minutes I decided I am just going to jump the relay directly from the battery for 10 seconds and I cranked it with jumper cables hooked to my running Jimmy to maintain the 2 batteries for a few tries and it fired in in 2 seconds.
It took a bout 30 seconds of feathering the gas pedal to finally idle on it's own.
It runs smooth and not too noisy.
Next I checked the transmission fluid and it was empty so I put some in and filled the radiator up and fired it up and it runs a drives forward and reverse but I have a leak in the radiator and the transmission cooler lines and the brake pedal went to the floor, I checked and it's empty.
So now I will fix the leaks and bleed the brakes and see if I can do a test drive maybe this weekend

 

[campfire]

Today I tried to follow the glow plugs controller wiring and after a few minutes I decided I am just going to jump the relay directly from the battery for 10 seconds and I cranked it with jumper cables hooked to my running Jimmy to maintain the 2 batteries for a few tries and it fired in in 2 seconds.
It took a bout 30 seconds of feathering the gas pedal to finally idle on it's own.
It runs smooth and not too noisy.
Next I checked the transmission fluid and it was empty so I put some in and filled the radiator up and fired it up and it runs a drives forward and reverse but I have a leak in the radiator and the transmission cooler lines and the brake pedal went to the floor, I checked and it's empty.
So now I will fix the leaks and bleed the brakes and see if I can do a test drive maybe this weekend

This is the turbocharged engine, yes?