CK5
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84 turbo diesel suburban
- Thread starter imiceman44
- Start date
So yesterday I started by removing the core support and started prepping the engine.
It was in a manual truck and this suburban is automatic, so I took off the clutch and flywheel.
Also started unhooking everything from the engine in the suburban.
View attachment 282062
It was in a manual truck and this suburban is automatic, so I took off the clutch and flywheel.
Also started unhooking everything from the engine in the suburban.
View attachment 282062
Today we continued to disconnect everything, and started pulling the engine when we realized we forgot to unhook the throttle cable and the tv cable.
I think the throttle cable is fine, the tv cable I am not taking chances so I want a new one.
I think the throttle cable is fine, the tv cable I am not taking chances so I want a new one.
Then we started to get the turbo off to put on the other engine, and we saw we need to get the valve cover on the passenger side moved because it already has a hole for oil return for the turbo.
We pulled the valve cover and found rust on the rockers and valve train.
I guess years of sitting moisture got in.
I pulled the valve cover on the other engine and it's super clean .
When I pulled the turbo exhaust manifold and the other side, there was no gasket.
I remember a discussion about that not long ago, I guess if the surface is clean and straight enough it's fine?
Or should I put gaskets.
We pulled the valve cover and found rust on the rockers and valve train.
I guess years of sitting moisture got in.
I pulled the valve cover on the other engine and it's super clean .
When I pulled the turbo exhaust manifold and the other side, there was no gasket.
I remember a discussion about that not long ago, I guess if the surface is clean and straight enough it's fine?
Or should I put gaskets.
I downloaded a factory service manual.
It says to use RTV on the valve covers.
I've torn apart several over the years all had RTV on the valve covers
It says to use RTV on the valve covers.
I've torn apart several over the years all had RTV on the valve covers
Both engines had rtv on the valve cover.
The exhaust manifold though only the engine Colby built had them, the turbo didn't.
Colby used the cork gasket slathered with blue silicone on the valve cover.
The other had goops of orange silicone that squished all over.
Orange silicone the same stuff I have seen on what seem to be stock 6.2s though all the 6.5s had gaskets
Yeah
I like that it didn't look like he used silicone and it was sealed good.
I have work for a couple of days then I will be back on it.
Hopefully it will be running by the end of the week.
I am thinking about putting a 1" body lift on to help with clearance to the engine and trans.
It will also help with the 33" tires I am thinking about putting on.
I already had 33" on the other suburban and it only rubbed a little when I wheeled it.
I might do like Colby.
I like that it didn't look like he used silicone and it was sealed good.
I have work for a couple of days then I will be back on it.
Hopefully it will be running by the end of the week.
I am thinking about putting a 1" body lift on to help with clearance to the engine and trans.
It will also help with the 33" tires I am thinking about putting on.
I already had 33" on the other suburban and it only rubbed a little when I wheeled it.
Some interior pictures.
It's a nice clean Silverado package except the typical headliner sag.
3 bench seats and dual a/c
It's a nice clean Silverado package except the typical headliner sag.
3 bench seats and dual a/c
Use The Right Stuff for everything. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-99070-Right-Stuff-Gasket/dp/B000HBM6PE Not cheap but it never will leak and sets up in a little while. I get this kit at my local parts store but it's probably more than on Amazon. You can also get it in a regular large caulk tube but then you risk it drying up before you use it all. I like the half size tubes. Ford 7.3L oil pans use only silicone and you put it on close to 3/4" thick on the ends and 1/2" thick on the sides and never an issue with this stuff.
If the manifolds are pretty flat you could try to just using high temp rtv on them. I always like gaskets. Powerstrokes come with no gaskets from the factory but then when you take one apart the first time you always install a thin metal gasket.
If the manifolds are pretty flat you could try to just using high temp rtv on them. I always like gaskets. Powerstrokes come with no gaskets from the factory but then when you take one apart the first time you always install a thin metal gasket.
So today my helper didn't come and I had a few things going so I only got a few hours in, and the fact that it is 1 hour away from home doesn't help.
First I clocked the alternator so that the braket ligns up properly.
Then I transferred the tv cable bracket and all the automatic transmission stuff as well as the cruise control.
This engine was mated to a sm465 and in a stripped down truck no a/c.
First I clocked the alternator so that the braket ligns up properly.
Then I transferred the tv cable bracket and all the automatic transmission stuff as well as the cruise control.
This engine was mated to a sm465 and in a stripped down truck no a/c.
I also got the engine degreased somewhat.
I am not trying to win a trophy or even paint it.
I just want to put it together without getting too greasy and be able to see leaks as they develop.
I also too off clutch and flywheel and got the flex plate.
I am not trying to win a trophy or even paint it.
I just want to put it together without getting too greasy and be able to see leaks as they develop.
I also too off clutch and flywheel and got the flex plate.
So the original engine has dual v belt pulleys for the power steering pump.
The one I have has them on the crank and water pump but not the power steering pump.
I see a alen wrench hole, is that to hold the shaft and unscrew the pulley?
Or is it pressed on?
I would use that pump if the bracket was not cracked.
I also would like to replace the square fuel filter with this spin on filter.
What do you guys think?
The one I have has them on the crank and water pump but not the power steering pump.
I see a alen wrench hole, is that to hold the shaft and unscrew the pulley?
Or is it pressed on?
I would use that pump if the bracket was not cracked.
I also would like to replace the square fuel filter with this spin on filter.
What do you guys think?
Looks like a press on pulley. Most are.
The square filters suck. Replace away!
The square filters suck. Replace away!
I'm definitely a fan of spin on style filters, just so much easier to deal with.
Ps pulley should be pressed on. They make a basic puller for it, it's universal to all GM ps pumps.
Ps pulley should be pressed on. They make a basic puller for it, it's universal to all GM ps pumps.
CrpMag122
1/2 ton status
For what it’s worth, I’m in midst of doing a Banks Sidewinder on my j code 6.2. They say not to install a gasket on the exhaust manifolds. Don’t know why that is but I don’t know why it would hurt.
I plan on doing the spin on filter as well. I want to put a ball valve on the outlet side for bleeding it.
I plan on doing the spin on filter as well. I want to put a ball valve on the outlet side for bleeding it.
GM didn't use exhaust manifold gaskets on their engines factory,they just planed the manifolds flat and put them on without any--you can buy aftermarket gaskets ,but they usually burn thru in short order and make that annoying lifter tick sound..
I just clean the manifolds good with a block of wood and sandpaper,and check to see if they are warped,if they are its best to get them planed flat and use no gaskets..
Every 6.2 I've seen apart or in a vehicle has that orange RTV oozing out of the valve covers--might be what GM used factory ?..no gaskets used factory far as I know,though you can buy them if you prefer using one..with the valve covers being a major teardown to remove,I'd want to never have to remove them again.
The P/S pump with the cracked bracket couldn't be welded up ?..be easier than swapping the pulleys,you need the special puller to get them off (can get one at Autozone "free" after leaving a deposit)..
I seem to muck up P/S pulleys every time I went to take one off,some are a real tight press fit..
I just clean the manifolds good with a block of wood and sandpaper,and check to see if they are warped,if they are its best to get them planed flat and use no gaskets..
Every 6.2 I've seen apart or in a vehicle has that orange RTV oozing out of the valve covers--might be what GM used factory ?..no gaskets used factory far as I know,though you can buy them if you prefer using one..with the valve covers being a major teardown to remove,I'd want to never have to remove them again.
The P/S pump with the cracked bracket couldn't be welded up ?..be easier than swapping the pulleys,you need the special puller to get them off (can get one at Autozone "free" after leaving a deposit)..
I seem to muck up P/S pulleys every time I went to take one off,some are a real tight press fit..
If you see yourself doing more power steering pumps in the future I highly recommend the snap-on puller and installer. I cussed some cheaper parts store ones before and having the new one makes the job a breeze. Sure it’s expensive but it was worth it to me
I have the pulley puller installer tool.
I did change the pulley it was easy.
I was cleaning the exhaust manifold and was thinking not to use the gasket and then I saw someone had banged on the surface and put dents in it.
I decided to use the gasket to make a better seal.
No sanding was going fill those dings.
