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'85 K5 "Denali" Blazer: Front 4-link

The goal is to restore and upgrade this truck for mixed use on/off road (ex: drive across the country to a national park to 4x4 camp).
I was out of town this past weekend for a friend's wedding, so not a lot happened with the cross member install. I do have the motor mount boxes painted and drying tonight, so hopefully tomorrow I will have them back in and cross member can be checked off the list.

As I'm sure is not uncommon among guys like us, I found car parts I wanted in the area the wedding was in LOL. My wife, being endlessly supportive and understanding, helped me pick up a usable set of bucket seats out of a Squarebody Suburban on the way back home.

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As I recently found out when my brother in law picked up the same style of seats for his K-10 build, these seats look very similar to the factory Blazer buckets. But, they have adjustable recline via a knob, and more importantly they have off-the-shelf replacement foam available. As can be seen in this thread, the factory early '80s Blazer seats, which sites like LMC list foam for, do not actually work with that foam. The foam that's available is actually for the seats pictured above (we have confirmed this 100% on the seats my brother in law bought).

You can see one of my brother in law's seats below after new foam and new covers. He got the foam from LMC and the covers from Raybuck, although I think they just resell both items (I am obviously not involved with either company, that's just an example of what works with these seats).

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The brackets for these seats will not work in a Blazer without modification. I am planning on adapting the factory Blazer seat brackets to fit the Suburban seats and put them at the desired height, which will allow me to also retain the flip-forward function of the passenger seat. Stay tuned for that, I'm not going to worry about it right now. But looking at the brackets and seats, it will be pretty straightforward if you have a welder.

In case anyone is wondering what the seats look side by side with a factory early '80s Blazer bucket seat, here you go. The Blazer (passenger) seat is sitting on the stock brackets but not bolted down, but it's within a half inch of factory location/height. The Suburban (driver side, but technically a passenger seat with the arm rest on the left, just for mock up) seat is propped up at a very rough approximate location/height with no brackets installed on the bottom (yet).

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I imagine not many people will be interested in this seat swap since using more modern seats is popular, but I think this is a good option if you want stock-style and period-correct looking Squarebody seats with the option to recline and easily rebuild with new foam/covers.
 
Finished up getting the ORD engine crossmember installed, motor mount boxes painted and reinstalled, and ORD motor mounts in place with bolts all slightly loose (so alignment can be tweaked as needed while putting the engine in the mounts). Pretty sure I am ready to swap the engine and transmission into place.

I also got all the riveted-on stuff off the frame rails (at least forward of the cab). Some of them I won't need, like the shock mounts, and others like the brake line holders will need to be reinstalled after the frame plates are on. Not sure if I will get to the frame plates before or after the engine is in, but I don't think it really matters.

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Finished getting the frame cleaned up (for now at least). Some previous owner welded these tow point things on the frame. I wasn't really a fan of how they looked or how they attached (welded to the C-channel and the spring hanger). And the factory tow hooks wouldn't fit with them on there and I like the factory ones better. So off the old ones came. Got a little more clean up to do for them but I'll do it once the spring hangers are out of the way.

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I also removed my old core support mounts because they were very thin (from rust pitting) on the top where the body mounts sandwich. These were pretty terrible to get off with 6 rivets in each on 2 different planes (which made prying hard). I got new ones from AMD, which I painted, and will put on at some point. I am planning on a behind-bumper winch mount so I will probably wait to put them on until I have that in hand to see how everything attaches together. For anyone wondering, the AMD ones seem to be just as good (thickness, proper shape/fit) as the factory ones.

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Finally, I am going to do body mounts next I think. I got all new body mount hardware from LMC, but the bushings themselves from ORD (Energy Suspension brand). The only hang up is the front 3 mount positions, the upper washer/cup does not fit the poly bushing. Looking closer, the LMC upper washer/cup is shaped slightly different than the stock one (which the poly bushing would fit). The LMC part comes with a bushing (for this hardware part only, none of the others did), so most people probably wouldn't even notice, but if you're swapping for poly bushings, it won't fit.

To solve this, I used basically a small grinding bit on a die grinder and hogged out the new poly bushing to just barely fit the new washer/cup. I am hoping there are no negative side effects of this, but we will see. I think it will be fine though. It's hard to see in the picture, but it has to be widened quite a lot.

I doubt this will be an issue for 99% of people, since most will either use their factory washers or just use the LMC rubber bushings. But I couldn't find this info anywhere else so posting it in case anyone else does the same thing I did.

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My brother-in-law is one of the Auto Tech teachers at the local high school (that we both attended back in the day and took Auto Tech at), so I can occasionally mooch access to the awesome shop they have. We are going to use this to pull the engine and transmission out of the Yukon and swap into the Blazer.

Today my dad helped me get the Yukon up to the school. It ran and drove really well when I bought it, but at some point the fuel pump in it died so we had to trailer it up there today. Luckily my BIL also has a car trailer with a winch that he generously lets me use!

I'm a little bit at the mercy of my BIL's schedule, so I may not get around to starting the engine/trans pulling until one night this coming week, but the truck is at least up there now. Once the engine/trans is out, I will probably bring the Yukon back home and take the Blazer up there to drop it in.

Should be a lot of fun!

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I finished getting the body mounts done, so now the Blazer should be safe to trailer over to the shop sometime in the next couple weeks.

I also got the steering arm off the knuckle, which took penetrating oil, heat, and a lot of hard whacks with a sledge hammer. I ended up just cutting through one of the ball joints on the drag link to be able to get the steering box out of the way during all this. Everything was very seized up so that seemed like the easiest/quickest way without ruining any decent parts (even though I won't be using them).

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Hoping to do engine swap related stuff soon, but depending on how the timing on that works out, I may start doing steering reinforcement and frame plates in the meantime.
 
Got the weld-on steering box brace clamped/hammered into shape I think. I test fit with the old steering box and I think the feet where the bolts go sit flush and none of the rest of the steering box contacts the frame plate. So I think it should be good to weld on.

The instructions say not to fully weld the perimeter of the plate. It seems that in reality, some people do and some don't. I assume the instructions say that for heat/warping reasons? I'm inclined to fully weld it, but do it in small sections, skip around, and allow it all to cool between welds. Does anyone see a problem with this? I will be mig welding it, if it matters.

Hopefully this isn't annoying to tag people, but I think I have seen these plates on @AgDieseler build thread, do you have any advice on this? I think you fully welded the steering brace and the Deuling frame plates? I'm leaning towards doing that.

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I have some time to decide. I still need to clean up this section of the frame and confirm no cracks (and fix them if there are). I also want to put weld-through primer on the frame and the plate. And I think I want to drill 2 holes for the little line brackets that bolt to the frame here, otherwise those threaded holes won't be useable anymore. I will also do a final test fit with the new steering box just in case there are any differences there to account for.

Thanks in advance for anyone who has tips on this!
 
Got the weld-on steering box brace clamped/hammered into shape I think. I test fit with the old steering box and I think the feet where the bolts go sit flush and none of the rest of the steering box contacts the frame plate. So I think it should be good to weld on.

The instructions say not to fully weld the perimeter of the plate. It seems that in reality, some people do and some don't. I assume the instructions say that for heat/warping reasons? I'm inclined to fully weld it, but do it in small sections, skip around, and allow it all to cool between welds. Does anyone see a problem with this? I will be mig welding it, if it matters.

Hopefully this isn't annoying to tag people, but I think I have seen these plates on @AgDieseler build thread, do you have any advice on this? I think you fully welded the steering brace and the Deuling frame plates? I'm leaning towards doing that.

View attachment 517093

View attachment 517094

I have some time to decide. I still need to clean up this section of the frame and confirm no cracks (and fix them if there are). I also want to put weld-through primer on the frame and the plate. And I think I want to drill 2 holes for the little line brackets that bolt to the frame here, otherwise those threaded holes won't be useable anymore. I will also do a final test fit with the new steering box just in case there are any differences there to account for.

Thanks in advance for anyone who has tips on this!
I believe they leave stretches of no weld to keep the flexibility so it doesn't crack.
A weld is hard and brittle, if you weld completely it could crack.
 
I think you fully welded the steering brace and the Deuling frame plates? I'm leaning towards doing that.
I did fully weld the reinforcement plate. I also boxed the back side. DOM bolt spacers would further tie the two sides together.

I believe they leave stretches of no weld to keep the flexibility so it doesn't crack.
A weld is hard and brittle, if you weld completely it could crack.
That is the procedure on the instructions, and probably the right move for non-hydro setups and “regular trucks.” Spacing the welds is all about keeping a possible crack from spreading. I ignored all that because I felt like a good two pass TIG weld would last longer than spaced out MIG welds.

If you choose to partially weld, grab some seam sealer and keep water from getting in between the plates.

David
 
Got the weld-on steering box brace clamped/hammered into shape I think. I test fit with the old steering box and I think the feet where the bolts go sit flush and none of the rest of the steering box contacts the frame plate. So I think it should be good to weld on.

The instructions say not to fully weld the perimeter of the plate. It seems that in reality, some people do and some don't. I assume the instructions say that for heat/warping reasons? I'm inclined to fully weld it, but do it in small sections, skip around, and allow it all to cool between welds. Does anyone see a problem with this? I will be mig welding it, if it matters.

Hopefully this isn't annoying to tag people, but I think I have seen these plates on @AgDieseler build thread, do you have any advice on this? I think you fully welded the steering brace and the Deuling frame plates? I'm leaning towards doing that.

View attachment 517093

View attachment 517094

I have some time to decide. I still need to clean up this section of the frame and confirm no cracks (and fix them if there are). I also want to put weld-through primer on the frame and the plate. And I think I want to drill 2 holes for the little line brackets that bolt to the frame here, otherwise those threaded holes won't be useable anymore. I will also do a final test fit with the new steering box just in case there are any differences there to account for.

Thanks in advance for anyone who has tips on this!
Now to be honest, having said what I said in the previous post, when I did mine the frame was so messed up, the piece between the four bolts completely came out and the frame cracked all the way down includin the bottom plate and frame horn bent up 90 degrees from the force of the springs, so I had to weld all that up then put the plate on.
And at the time for some reason I was given the plates without the instructions and not having much experience in welding being self taught, I welded the whole thing up.
I learned later about the instructions and I can tell you for 4 years that I owned it after and beat the crap out of it,it held up.
Unlike the rest of the frame that ended up cracking in 6 locations
 
Thank you guys for the advice, and that totally makes sense. Based on this I think I am leaning towards actually following the instructions then, and seam sealing the gaps. My truck plans probably fall more under the "regular" category than yours do (non-hydro steering, only 35" tires, etc).

Are spaced out, non-continuous welds also recommended (in my case at least) for the Deuling frame plates I guess?

Thanks again!

I believe they leave stretches of no weld to keep the flexibility so it doesn't crack.
A weld is hard and brittle, if you weld completely it could crack.
I did fully weld the reinforcement plate. I also boxed the back side. DOM bolt spacers would further tie the two sides together.


That is the procedure on the instructions, and probably the right move for non-hydro setups and “regular trucks.” Spacing the welds is all about keeping a possible crack from spreading. I ignored all that because I felt like a good two pass TIG weld would last longer than spaced out MIG welds.

If you choose to partially weld, grab some seam sealer and keep water from getting in between the plates.

David
Now to be honest, having said what I said in the previous post, when I did mine the frame was so messed up, the piece between the four bolts completely came out and the frame cracked all the way down includin the bottom plate and frame horn bent up 90 degrees from the force of the springs, so I had to weld all that up then put the plate on.
And at the time for some reason I was given the plates without the instructions and not having much experience in welding being self taught, I welded the whole thing up.
I learned later about the instructions and I can tell you for 4 years that I owned it after and beat the crap out of it,it held up.
Unlike the rest of the frame that ended up cracking in 6 locations
 
The 6L80 is out of the Yukon. I don't think there is much left in the way of the engine coming out now, so hopefully next time we work on it will be the day.

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Same, mine are fully welded and including my steering box.
Thanks for the feedback! I think I am set on fully welding the Deuling frame plates then.

I'm waffling back and forth on the steering box plate. Fully welding feels better to me, unless of course a crack develops. Then again, if a crack develops, the gaps between welds might keep it from spreading, but either way it would need to be repaired (grind out the cracked weld and reweld I would think). Seems like either way this is an area that should be periodically inspected and repaired if necessary. So maybe, assuming I actually do keep an eye on it over the years, fully welding is the way to go?

Just thinking out loud here. I have at least several days to decide, and will definitely post whatever I land on. If anyone has any further thoughts/advice/experience I'm all ears.

Thanks again guys!
 
Thanks for the feedback! I think I am set on fully welding the Deuling frame plates then.

I'm waffling back and forth on the steering box plate. Fully welding feels better to me, unless of course a crack develops. Then again, if a crack develops, the gaps between welds might keep it from spreading, but either way it would need to be repaired (grind out the cracked weld and reweld I would think). Seems like either way this is an area that should be periodically inspected and repaired if necessary. So maybe, assuming I actually do keep an eye on it over the years, fully welding is the way to go?

Just thinking out loud here. I have at least several days to decide, and will definitely post whatever I land on. If anyone has any further thoughts/advice/experience I'm all ears.

Thanks again guys!
The theory goes back and forth sense the frame plate came out, I don't think you can do it wrong as long as it holds. A periodically inspection is mandatory on everything if you ask me. The desert racing in me is the reason I fully prep everything before a trip.
 
Welds that are fully fused to the base material tend not to fail. If you’re MIG welding, consider a modest preheat to make sure your start is at hot as the finish. Squirt gun welds tend to be pretty cold at the start.

Burn it!

David
 
Welds that are fully fused to the base material tend not to fail. If you’re MIG welding, consider a modest preheat to make sure your start is at hot as the finish. Squirt gun welds tend to be pretty cold at the start.

Burn it!

David
Not sure why I never thought of that.
 
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