CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

'86 chevy on rocks-2-14 Dovetailed bed!!

He's on pirate, just recently had a giveaway for one of these. They are $250 and they also have a mounting plate for $30. www.4x4laurentides.com is his website. He goes by the name ericrunner on pirate. Also have you seen the frankenheim that evolution machine sells?

No I havent. I did think about just using a 1 and a 1/4" hiem but this is gonna be a lot stronger. The ball and socket that longview driveline sells is $300. This I will have $85 invested in between the ball and hitch. I just didnt see the point in spending $300 for something I can have that will work the same way for $85.
 
No I havent. I did think about just using a 1 and a 1/4" hiem but this is gonna be a lot stronger. The ball and socket that longview driveline sells is $300. This I will have $85 invested in between the ball and hitch. I just didnt see the point in spending $300 for something I can have that will work the same way for $85.
Ok, well basically it's the mother of all heims. But I'm interested in seeing how yours performs under a fullsize truck. Keep up the good work :wink1:
 
Ok update for this week. I have managed to get quite a bit done in the pass couple weeks. I got the steering cyliner all mounted up and the steering knuckles hooked up to the cylinder. I ended up having to pull the plate off to move it over to the passenger side some more because it was to close to the driver side to hook up. I moved it over as far as I could without blocking the fill plug on the diff. I got it moved over and it was still to close to the driver side to get it hooked up correctly. But I did some engineering and I was able to get it hooked up. It will be like this temporarily. I order a set of taper deletes for where there stock tie rod goes in the knuckle. What that does is it make it to where I can use a 3/4" bolt and put a hiem joint on the top. I am hoping that will be here tommorow and I can get it all put on this weekend. Also went had the power steering lines made yesterday and put them on tonight but I still need to zip tie them up and out of the way.
I also got the rear link bar done. I cut that hitch at that white line that I had marked and also welded a piece of 1/4" plate to the hitch that will help tie the 2"X3" rectangle tubing into the hitch.
My 4 year old nephew is ready to drive it.
IM004651.jpg

1410 205 yoke compared to stock.
IM004652.jpg

IM004653.jpg

he is standing up all the way in this pic.
IM004654.jpg

IM004655.jpg

IM004656.jpg

IM004662.jpg

IM004661.jpg

IM004663.jpg

IM004669.jpg

IM004668.jpg

IM004667.jpg

IM004671.jpg

And this is why I am running this type of suspension. The axle could of kept dropping all the way to the ground and there is no binding at all on that hitch. With hiem joints or bushing it would max out a lot sooner than that hitch will. Also I have under $200 in my link bars and the crossmember where the ball is mounted.
IM004674.jpg

IM004672.jpg

IM004673.jpg

IM004675.jpg

IM004676.jpg

I pulled the rear tires off so that I could work on the upper and lower coil mounts.
 
Also I had to get some shorty headers because the long tubes were in the way of everything. These are actually hedman headers for a monte carlo. They were the only shorty headers I could find for a 454. They fit tight but at least they fit. Also instead of a regualar collector they are a ball and socket. It is a gasketless hookup but it is suppopsed to never leak. I forgot to get some pics of it.
IM004665.jpg

IM004666.jpg
 
I like those ball and socket header flanges a lot better than the old style, I havent had any leaks out of mine yet, although I have had to re-tighten them at least I didnt have to take them all the way apart and replace gaskets.
 
you notched out for the U-bolts, why not just notch out for the fill plug and go right over it?

are you going to run a panhard bar in the rear?
 
you notched out for the U-bolts, why not just notch out for the fill plug and go right over it?

are you going to run a panhard bar in the rear?

Yes the rear will have to have a trac-bar. As for the fill plug if I would of notched it out like that I wouldnt of been able to get a ratchet on it.
 
Very nice, very nice. Seeing that one-link makes me wanna tear apart my rear suspension!
 
I have been working on the truck a few hours every evening whenever I get a chance so I am starting to make some progress on the rear suspension. I think that it is coming along pretty good considering this is the most extensive fab stuff I have done. I got the lower spring mounts done and the upper coil buckets and just about done. I still have to add some more bracing but they are gettting close to being done. Also I will be go back and welding everything with a 220 miller welder so dont look at the welds. A lot from tonight look really bad because I am outside and it was windy and I am trying to weld with a mig. Anyways I will let the pics do the talking.
IM004696.jpg

IM004695.jpg

IM004694.jpg

IM004693.jpg

IM004692.jpg

IM004691.jpg

IM004690.jpg

IM004688.jpg

IM004697.jpg

IM004707.jpg

IM004706.jpg

IM004705.jpg

IM004704.jpg

IM004703.jpg

IM004702.jpg

IM004701.jpg
 
man i really like that 1 link with the trailer ball!:bow: what did those coils come off of?

p.s. can you pm me some more pics of the one link for ideas!:D
 
opps still has old 8 lug back there




what kinda rear rim is that..i kinda like it and it fit military...cool

That was when the 14B was still back there. That is a JAX HD wheel. I ran those on my old '01 dodge 1500 that I had put one ton axles under. It was my daily driver until I got my cummins. That was the spare I had. I bought those wheels from discount because they are cheap. They are discontinued though.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom