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'86 chevy on rocks-2-14 Dovetailed bed!!

I started working on my 205 this week. I had to remove the front output shaft and install a ford 32 spline shaft. The factory chevy one is 31 spline so I could not get a 1410 yoke for the front output. I found a guy that had a ford shaft so I got it and I thought it would be a direct swap. Well I found out pretty quick that it wasn't.
Here are the pics of my chevy 205. It came out of a '83 K20 and is behind a 400 trans.
Twin sticked!!
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Front output flange removed.
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Rear aluminum plate removed.
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Complete front output shaft assembly from chevy 205.
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Ford 205 front output assembly.
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Here you can see it uses a collar that slids over the teeth.
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Ford shaft on the left. Notice the part where the teeth are is smaller.
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Chevy 205 shift fork.
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The adapter is 4" long.
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I want to say it was about 10 1/2" tall.
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Today I worked on the truck just about all day. I started by finishing up my steering. I still have to run the lines where they are gonna be tied up and not get hung up on anything but I have the tie rods done and hooked up.
The driver side is pretty much flat now. I may end up getting rid of the stock TRE on the passenger side and put a hiem on top over there as well.
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Last weekend I got the trac-bar mount done and I put all the weight on the coils for the first time. I didnt have any extra weight to compensate for when there will be tools, full gas tank, spare parts, ice chest, and stuff that will be in there during a trail ride and the truck was sitting to low. So I what I did is instead of the coil spring going up inside the pipe for the uppper mount I took some 1/4" plate and built a bottom on the pipe and I also built some retainers that goes inside the coil springs that way the top is actually bolted to the upper and lower mounts. I ended up having to redo the trac bar mount on the axle because where I put it the first time when the drive side went up it would hit the bottom of the frame. I still need to cut it off but I just moved the new mount to the inside of it. I will cut it off about 5"s or so from the top and plate it to have extra support for the mount. ALso there will be another brace from the inside of the trac-bar mount that will go over to the other link bar.
Finally back on the ground
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Trac-bar is level at ride hieght.
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Upper mount
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That thing is looking SERIOUS. Awesome build. Keep us updated!
 
Wow that thing is shaping up to be a beast!! Your doing lots of creative stuff Awesome job so far!! SHould be ready for this spring eh?

Couple things caught my eye though. Not critisizing just a couple things jumped out at me.

I'd be a little worried about all the twisting force you'll be putting on that trailing arm with the panhard bar mounted to it like you have it?

Another thing you might want to watch out for is the shaft on your steering servo looks a little close to the spring. Woulden't want that to get scratched or gauded up from contact when the spring gets compressed. can't really tell for shure from the picture but it looks possible that the spring could get reall close when it's squished.
 
Wow that thing is shaping up to be a beast!! Your doing lots of creative stuff Awesome job so far!! SHould be ready for this spring eh?

Couple things caught my eye though. Not critisizing just a couple things jumped out at me.

I'd be a little worried about all the twisting force you'll be putting on that trailing arm with the panhard bar mounted to it like you have it?

Another thing you might want to watch out for is the shaft on your steering servo looks a little close to the spring. Woulden't want that to get scratched or gauded up from contact when the spring gets compressed. can't really tell for shure from the picture but it looks possible that the spring could get reall close when it's squished.

The mount on the axle for the trac bar is still going to get some bracing. And the springs on the front are to close to the cylinder. I am gonnna take a over load spring and it cut it down and put it under the springs and that will raise them 1".
 
Yeah its a little bit big. But really considering the fact that it is on 49's and rockwells it really isnt that big. Also it will settle once I get the t-case, rollcage, and all my gears and tools that I will have it in while I am on the trails.
 
I worked on the truck about 8 hours Sunday mostly wiring everything. I am really picky about wiring and I try to make it as neat as possible. I started by making a bracket to mount under the dash to hold my relays. I ended up with a place for 10 relays and I am currently using 7. I also went ahead and mount a extra on there just to have it. I also took some stainless steel I had and made a switch panel that turned out pretty sweet. I put 8 switches in it but so far only 6 are being used. The rest will be for stuff later on. On to the pics.

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Fuse blocks on the firewall. THe big one has a 4 gauge wire running from the batteries in the bed to it. The small one is on a switch. I have the fuel pump, PCM, and coil hooked up to it. The small fuse block is on its own 30amp relay plus the fuel pump is on its own 30 amp relay so the only thing pulling power off of the fuse block is the PCM and coil.

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Relays mounted under dash behind glove box.

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I messed with it for a little bit tonight and got my oil pressure gauge hooked up and fired up the motor just to make sure it was all working. I think I may end up having to replace my red top batteries. They have been sitting for a while and I think that they aren't charging good. They were dead sunday so I put one on the charger that night and tonight I put it on the truck and it had 12.5 amp according to me volt meter but it sounds like the started was barely turning. Maybe they will be good after I run the truck some.
 
man i have to say i think you will regret wiring the ENTIRE truck in red and black....

You know I thought about that after I did it. But it will be ok. I have a ohm meter and if I need to trace a wire back or anything like that I should be able to pretty easy. So I wrote down exactly what all is hooked up on each spot on the fuse blocks, relay panel, and switch panel. So if I have any problems I should be able to track it down.
 
Well it has been a while since I have really got anything done on the truck so I figured it was time to start messing with it again. I got the chevy 205 t-case finished up. It now has 32 spline outputs front and rear and 1410 yokes front and rear. I also ground down the rail and put twin sticks on it. I got the t-case back and and it seems to be working great. The shifter shift really easy and was easy to hook up. Also the shifter kit was only $110 shipped!! I highly recommend the kit.

I also had a problem with one of the injectors on the motor not firing so I pulled it off and socked it in gas all night and put it back on and it seems to be working so far. The motor is running really good now. I also got the timing set on it so that helped as well. I did notice that it looks like the rear main seal is leaking so I wish I would of changed that before I put the motor in.

As for the suspension I had ended up taking out the 5" lift 56's I had in the front and swapped in my original rear stock 56's and that dropped the truck about 8"s. That got the truck sitting a lot lower like I had wanted but I had a lot of clearance issues with the front axle. So I did some more swapping and just couldnt get it where I had wanted it without doing a bunch of other stuff. So for now I just stuck the new 56's back in and that raised it back up. I did got ahead and redo the upper coil mounts on the rear and lowered it down 4"s though. Right now it looks like the front is still a bit high but I will still be adding a lot more weight to the front and the springs are new and will settle once I get a few trips on the truck. I will run these for a while and start saving up to 4 link the front later on.

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I got a taper delete for the passenger side knuckle too and I will be putting a hiem on top just like the drive side. I will probably do that this weekend.
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Also it is 35"s from the lower point on the frame to the ground. The crossmember hang down a few inches below that.
 
whos the twin stick setup made by? also who makes those wicked high jackstands. i need a pair =] you cant get much better than a big block with rockwells... pretty much indestructable. it looks good and i cant wait to see it when its done!
 
whos the twin stick setup made by? also who makes those wicked high jackstands. i need a pair =] you cant get much better than a big block with rockwells... pretty much indestructable. it looks good and i cant wait to see it when its done!

The stands belong to a friend of mine. They have come in really handy. I need to build me a set since mine arent big enough anymore.

The shifter came from jbfab. They sell them on ebay or you can buy them directly from there site.

http://www.jbfab.net/index.htm
 
sounds good. thank you, because when i get the $ i want to twin stick my 205 on my 77 k10. could you get anymore pics of the jackstands so i could try and replicate them?
 
Some new pics from this week. I got the front clip bolted back on. I stuck the grille back on to look and see what all had to be modified to get it to fit on there the way I like. I dont think that it will take to much. I will be cutting the bed A LOT to clear the tires for now. Eventually once I get some DOM I will be removing the bed completely. ALso I will start by cutting the front fenders some but that will probably end up coming off too since there wont be anything left of them. Here are some pics. I am just about through with the rear suspension. I still need to brace the trac-bar mount some more and plate the bottom of where the link bars come together at the hitch.

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New upper coil mounts for the rear. I kept it simple as possible.
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I took some 3/8" plate and built the brace for the front to help tie the front spring mount to the crossmember.
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dude get out the grinder and cut of wheel!


your rig would look wayyyyyy better if you chopped of the tan part of the bed, cut it right below the molding and cup the front fang off the front fender
 
dude get out the grinder and cut of wheel!


your rig would look wayyyyyy better if you chopped of the tan part of the bed, cut it right below the molding and cup the front fang off the front fender

I am going too. I just havent had time. The suspension is so soft just driving around the truck leans enough to both sides that the tires chew up the fenders.
 
Yeah get this thing finished so you can post pics of the rear end falling out of it. :haha: Sorry man, I'm gonna have to be a hater on this one... Good theory on the one link, but theres too many possible faliures on this truck to point out.
 
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